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Author Topic:   Bottom paint
FRTDOG540 posted 03-11-2004 08:59 PM ET (US)   Profile for FRTDOG540   Send Email to FRTDOG540  
What color red bottom paint does everyone use for newer whalers??? My 2000 ventura is painted black, but I want to change it to red...I was at boaters world today to look at the colors and the red's that they had were awful looking...The brightest was closer to maroon or dark purple...Any thoughts??? Thanks in advance!

Scott

OutrageMan posted 03-11-2004 09:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for OutrageMan  Send Email to OutrageMan     
I like black. However, my favorite is Interlux's VC17 "original.: When it goes on it looks copper, but after it sits in the water for a few weeks it turns a brown/black. You need to actually see it to understand, but it looks great.

Brian

hardensheetmetal posted 03-12-2004 05:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for hardensheetmetal  Send Email to hardensheetmetal     
Check out the back of a few marine catologs, they usually have a color chart. I know what you mean about the red bottom paints, most look closer to brown than red. From a few color charts that I found, it looks like Interlux's Trilux 33 and Micron Optima are both a little more red than some of their other bottom paints. This could just be the variations of the paint chips or the fact that paint chips are not that accurate. The one that I have seen in person that is really bright red is Awlgrips bottom paint, but that is pretty extreme stuff, probably not an easy do-it-yourself application. I did also see where Petit was advertising a new antifouling paint called Vivid that is supposed to come in 'bright' colors, but I have yet to see anything except white offered.

Dan

Clark Roberts posted 03-12-2004 08:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for Clark Roberts  Send Email to Clark Roberts     
I just painted over a dark blue bottom on an old 21 Outrage with Interlux Trulux 33 "off-white" and it so nearly matches the original gel coat that at 10 feet away you can't tell it has any bottom paint on it.
rmart posted 03-12-2004 11:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for rmart  Send Email to rmart     
Clark,
Doesn't the prior dark blue bottom paint show through at all?
Clark Roberts posted 03-12-2004 06:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for Clark Roberts  Send Email to Clark Roberts     
Correction! The color is labeled "white" but looks "off-white" or tan in can and when applied. Like I said, it's almost a perfect match of the hulls gel-coat. Rmart, no there is no blue bleed through at all. I did put on several good coats (with roller) and masked to original water line. When I removed the tape you can hardly see the dividing line between the new, white bottom paint and the gel-coat. This is the only white bottom paint I could find and its chemical makeup is TributylTinFloride (TBTF).
JohnNorthEast posted 03-15-2004 06:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for JohnNorthEast  Send Email to JohnNorthEast     
Is there another option, in place of bottom paint ( I know, aside from not painting as the other option) ? I recall a fiberglass man once explained there are oher "applications" that last longer, and truely waterproof the gelcoat. However I have not found any data on this process.
hardensheetmetal posted 03-15-2004 09:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for hardensheetmetal  Send Email to hardensheetmetal     
John-

The I think the product you are referring to is an epoxy barrier coat, such as Interlux Interprotect 2000/3000. This is not a substitute for bottom paint, as it has no antifouling propertites. Barrier coat products form a waterproof membrane to keep water from impregnating gelcoat.

I have seen several wax products such as boat armours Easy On, which claim to give a full season of antifouling protection, but I think that would depend greatly on where your boat is kept.

Dan

David Jenkins posted 03-15-2004 12:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Jenkins  Send Email to David Jenkins     
I have stripped most of the old bottom paint off of my 1974 Outrage 19. Now I am interested in applying a waterproof membrane prior to rolling on the white bottom paint mentioned by Clark Roberts. My West Marine salesman recommended Interlux Epoxy Barrier Kote 404/414 Multi-Purpose Primer Undercoat. Does anyone have any idea how that might differ from Interlux Interprotect 2000/3000. Which would be better for his application? Thanks!
David Jenkins posted 03-15-2004 12:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Jenkins  Send Email to David Jenkins     
...better for this application...?
JohnNorthEast posted 03-16-2004 08:16 AM ET (US)     Profile for JohnNorthEast  Send Email to JohnNorthEast     
Hardensheetmetal et al., Is it an either one or the other or can you do both?

Interprotect 2000/3000 and bottom paint, or one vs the other? I have a virgin hull coming my way in a about a month and will be mooring in the Atalantic( Massachusetts). Any suggestions on best approaoch to bottom paint are greatly appreciated.

prm1177 posted 03-16-2004 12:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for prm1177  Send Email to prm1177     
Two coats minimum epoxy barrier, then two to three coats ablative bottom paint (Powerboat Reports just did a fairly comprehensive test). Some here recommend the first coat of bottom paint be a different color from the outer coats to better warn you when they are wearing thin.
SpeedBump posted 03-16-2004 07:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for SpeedBump  Send Email to SpeedBump     
I used the interprotect on my old 13, has been on for the past four years with just a fresh coat of fiberglas bottom kote each season. The interprotect has held up very well the only problem is you need to be careful at the end of the season in cleaning the hull bottom after hauling for the season as you don't want to abrade the protective barrier coat of the interprotect. Power washing has helped avoid any damage to the interprotect.

Clark Roberts,I have been interested in using a white bottom paint. How has the white color of your bottom paint held up to staining or color change at the waterline? I have seen earlier versions of white bottom coats that stained very easily and have stayed away from them because of that. I keep my boat moored for up to five months and am concerned that the bottom would look really cruddy after a couple of months.

Clark Roberts posted 03-17-2004 07:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for Clark Roberts  Send Email to Clark Roberts     
Speed, I can't answer your question because boat has not been sitting in the water. This is the first time I have painted a boat's bottom and I did it to cover the horrible blue paint previous owner used (instead of sanding it off). Also this is the ONLY white anti-fouling paint I could find. Boat is sitting in the water this morning and I will leave it in for a week to see is it stains (a week worth of staining will not answer your 5 month question. Clark... SCN
unsinkable_2000 posted 03-17-2004 08:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for unsinkable_2000  Send Email to unsinkable_2000     
I am just in the process now of refinishing a 65 Eastport. I have gone with the West Marine Bottom Poxy after completely stripping the many, many layers of boatyard bottom paint. I think I have now run in to six different colors from years of repainting that were done to this hull. My opinion is that Bottom Poxy or something similar is a good idea for these older hulls, offers much more protection than just bottom paint. I can not stress enough how important it is to follow directions on application of both the bottom poxy and bottom paint. I have gone with the "higher end" bottom paint that offers a self cleaning finish which cleans as it travels through the water, also will allow more seasons of use. I have gone with black. Over the years for some reason the black has held up best for me, (fresh water) there are many schools of thought, ranging from black reflects less light = allows for less growth to all sorts of different thoughts, bottom line is has held up the best for me. I have step by step pics of this process if anyone wants to see. Martin
Legobusier posted 03-17-2004 08:26 AM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
Martin,

I would like to see the step by step as I am about to undertake a similar endeavor on my '87 Montauk. Please email me (see profile) or post a link here. Thanks, Chris

unsinkable_2000 posted 03-17-2004 12:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for unsinkable_2000  Send Email to unsinkable_2000     
Chris, you can email me at unsinkable_2000@yahoo.com
CdnWhalerGuy posted 03-18-2004 09:23 AM ET (US)     Profile for CdnWhalerGuy  Send Email to CdnWhalerGuy     
Clark,

A couple of questions about your experience with the Trilux 33 product:

1. How did it cover the previous blue colour? Based on your experience, do you think it would cover/hide older black bottom paint?
2. Is the Trilux 33 product considered an "ablative" or "epoxy" type paint?
3. Any advice on using the product?

Thanks. I own a 1981 15' Sport that was painted with blank antifouling and would like to replace with a "white" coloured product.

Phil

Clark Roberts posted 03-18-2004 11:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for Clark Roberts  Send Email to Clark Roberts     
Phil, the Trilux 33 (White) covered the previous blue paint no problem. I'm no expert but can forward the following observations: Paint adheres better if existing paint is lightly sanded and then cleaned with laquer thinner; best applied with approx 3/8" nap roller; not ablative but chemical (TBTF); since hull is already painted there seems to be no need (or possibility?) for using a barrier coat (others may have suggestions). That's all I can think of at the moment! Have a ball and happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
Plotman posted 03-18-2004 11:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for Plotman  Send Email to Plotman     
Clark-

I thought TBT (or any tin-based) bottom paint was only legal for application to aluminum boats where copper can cause galvanic problems. Am I getting my biocides confused?

David

Plotman posted 03-18-2004 11:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for Plotman  Send Email to Plotman     
Clark-

I thought TBT (or any tin-based) bottom paint was only legal for application to aluminum boats where copper can cause galvanic problems. Am I getting my biocides confused?

David

Clark Roberts posted 03-18-2004 03:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Clark Roberts  Send Email to Clark Roberts     
Plot, the instructions say it's good for aluminum and fiberglas... It says ,quote, "Trilux 33 was developed for use on aluminum hulled vessels but can be used on fiberglas, wood and steel surfaces." Also states that it can be successfully applies over previously painted surfaces if properly sanded and cleaned. Having just read these descriptions I read the contents again and am mistaken about contents. IT'S NOT TBTF! I must have read contents off old can of similar paint that was TBTF... getting old and senile I suppose. Here are contents taken directly off a fresh can of Interlux "Trilux 33" - Cuprous Thiocyanate @ 16.95%, Zinc 2-pyridinethiol 1-oxide @ 3.39 and inerts @ 79.66%. So that's Copper and Zinc. Why doesn't aluminum sacrifice to the Copper (higher on the galvanic table). Don't ask me 'cause I'm no expert but assume that the chemists at Interlux are and they say it was developed for aluminum hulled vessels... go figure, but I don't have an aluminum boat anyway. Whew! Happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
David Jenkins posted 03-19-2004 03:54 PM ET (US)     Profile for David Jenkins  Send Email to David Jenkins     
I have ordered a gallon of the Trilux 33 in white. In the meantime, I'm still scraping old paint off of the bottom of my 1974 Outrage 19.

I called the Interlux technical assistance number to ask if I should roll on the Interprotect 2000 prior to painting the bottom and the expert said that Interprotect was designed to stop or prevent blistering and that if I did not have any blistering on this 30-year-old hull then I did not need it, although it would help make the hull water tight. However, he said that if the hull was not completely dry when I rolled on the Interprotect 2000 then it would be very bad and it would have been better for me not to have used it at all.

As I scrape away bottom paint, I find that my gelcoat has lots of cracks in it and I am a little worried that it may be impossible to get the hull completely dry since it is possible (maybe?) that water could seep down from the inside if any of those cracks have affected the watertightness of the fiberglass and if any water has gotten in or around the foam in the last 30 years.

So I am thinking that I will just seal the cracks with 3M Marine Putty (and/or Interlux Watertight) then roll on the Trilux 33 bottom paint.

The technical assistance guy also told me that the Trilux would lose its antifoulant characteristics if I kept it out of the water for more than 30 days. But the Interlux brochure says that it is perfect for boats that are dry moored. Very confusing....

gil carpenter posted 03-22-2004 01:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for gil carpenter  Send Email to gil carpenter     
Great info. I recently bought a 89 Montauk that's never been bottom painted and never in fresh water. I'm about to launch it into salt water and have been in a debate with others in and out of this forum about bottom painting pros and cons. The true debate for me is: should I install a lift for $7K so I don't have to bottom paint or bottom paint the boat and leave it in the water during the 6 month boating season? If bottom painted, how long can it be left moored in the water without a problem. Really want the boat highly accessible during the season. Will it have to be bottom painted every year?

Thanks to all for all the info on types of paint and application. This forum is invaluable to me, a first time boater.

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