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Author Topic:   Towing Trailers With Weight Above Tow Rating of Vehicle
jake111361 posted 06-11-2011 07:40 AM ET (US)   Profile for jake111361   Send Email to jake111361  
I am thinking about an Outrage 20, but my car has a towing capacity of only 3500 lbs. With the weight of the trailer, boat, motor and gas I'm just over the limit. Will this be a problem?
jimh posted 06-11-2011 08:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Towing a trailer whose weight is greater than the rated tow capacity of a vehicle will be a problem.
southshore fisherman posted 06-11-2011 09:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for southshore fisherman  Send Email to southshore fisherman     
This subject has been discussed at great length in other posts. ConB gave us this link in one of them.

http://www.trailerlife.com/output.cfm?id=1452097

Buckda sums it up nicely in a response to this posting.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/004437.html

As Jim stated, you are asking for trouble when you get near or exceed the towing capacity of you vehicle.

jimh posted 06-11-2011 09:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Vehicle tow ratings are already rather optimistic. Tow ratings are also somewhat misleading. They typically are based on there being only one person (the driver) in the tow vehicle, and nothing else. If you add another person, their weight must be subtracted from the tow rating. If you add 50-lbs of luggage, that weight is subtracted from the tow rating. If you add accessory equipment, like running boards, their weight must be subtracted from the tow rating. If you have a full tank of gas, you probably should subtract its weight from the tow rating. As a result, a vehicle with a rating of 3,500-lbs is probably going to be over its rated load with a trailer that weighs 3,000-lbs,

Boats on trailers always weigh more than you think. The best way to discover the weight of trailer is to have its axle weights measured on a certified scale. The results will surprise most trailer owners.

When you tow a trailer that is at the maximum rated capacity of a vehicle the driving experience diminishes. The acceleration, braking, and stability of the combined truck and trailer become marginal.

If you plan on towing only a short distance, plan on towing on smooth, straight roads, plan on towing in areas with no uphill or downhill grades, and plan to keep your speed very moderate, you can manage to tow a load that is at your maximum tow rating without too much trouble. If you intend to tow long distances, on marginal roads, with steep grades, and at higher speeds, you will find that having a tow vehicle with a tow rating that exceeds the actual load will produce a much more pleasant driver experience.

Should you have a collision while towing a trailer that exceeded the rating of your tow vehicle, I suspect that your insurance carrier might have some escape clause in your insurance policy which could expose you to higher financial risks. I also suspect that operating a vehicle on public highways with an excess load is also illegal and you could be cited.

Jefecinco posted 06-11-2011 09:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jefecinco  Send Email to Jefecinco     
No one should recommend exceeding a vehicles towing limits. If you are close to the limit and the distances you tow are short you may decide the risk is slight.

There are some things you can do to mitigate some risk. First is to remove anything from the boat, trailer, tow vehicle combination that is not absolutely essential to your use. If you are meeting friends or family at the ramp ask them to bring the cooler & ice, tackle, bait, cushions, and anything else that is portable. You can put all that stuff aboard at the ramp before lining up to launch. If you need fuel don't fill your tank until you reach the last source on your route to the ramp. If your outing will burn 15 gallons of fuel you don't need the added weight of 50 gallons in the tank.

Besides losing all possible weight before towing you'll want to ensure your trailer and tow vehicle are as tow ready as possible. One of the most important things you can do is to ensure that your tires are rated for the load the trailer and tow vehicle will be dealing with. You may need D or even E rated tires. The right tires will not do you any good if they are not properly inflated. As a minimum inflate the tires to the maximum pressure indicated on the tire sidewall. Also check the tire manufacturers web site for any additional recommendations. At least one manufacturer recommends inflation of up to 10% over the sidewall recommended maximum pressure for towing heavy loads. It goes without saying that your tires should be in good condition and probably not much older than seven years.

Keep you speed down within the limits of road safety. It's not a good idea to drive 25 MPH in a 45 MPH zone. More speed will cause your tires to operate at higher temperatures so 5 MPH below the limit may be safe if conditions allow.

There are some after market devices advertised to add towing capability. Helper springs and air bags come to mind.

Butch

Tom W Clark posted 06-11-2011 10:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Towing a trailer whose weight is less than the rated tow capacity of a vehicle will not be a problem.
gnr posted 06-11-2011 12:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for gnr    
There is no such thing as a tow rating of xxxx lbs. That number comes from the marketing department.

You have to find out the gross maximum combined vehicle weight rating and subtract from that the total weight of the tow vehicle and payload plus the tongue weight. The remaining number is what you have left to tow with.

Conventional wisdom suggests that you limit your load to 75% of that capacity.


lizard posted 06-11-2011 03:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for lizard  Send Email to lizard     
My 2004 Toyota Tacoma, double cab, 3.1 liter engine, short bed (the only way they were sold that year) has a 3500 lb. capacity. I have an 18 Outrage with the usual gear. There are usually 300 lbs. of passenger weight in the vehicle.

I would never attempt to tow the 20 Outrage, as I feel my vehicle has all it can do to get up minor grades and attain highways speeds with the 18. I do not know the weight difference between the 18 and the 20 and the corresponding weight difference between the respective trailers.

Unfortunately for me, the following year, the same truck was reconfigured, had a 3.6 liter engine and had a tow rating of 6000 or 6500 lbs.

pcrussell50 posted 06-11-2011 06:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
You guys are all saying that the vehicle manufacturers tow ratings are optimistic at best. While I have no factual basis to support my view, I don't see how they could get away with that, from a liability standpoint. I can just see someone getting into a towing accident, while towing at or near the limit of the rating. Seems it would be a piece of cake for the plaintiff's attorney to make minced meat out of the manufacturer for "misleading" the innocent driver into a dangerous situation.

Again, I do not stand as resolutely on this topic as others where I am more knowledeable.

-Peter

lizard posted 06-11-2011 07:07 PM ET (US)     Profile for lizard  Send Email to lizard     
pc- All I can tell you is that I could not add 300-400 lbs. more and tow it.

The numbers below are best guesswork

Hull=1250
Motor=425-450
Gear= (batteries, anchor, rode, oar, VRO, etc.) 300
Passengers= 300
No trailer presently, so I don't know a weight for the trailer, but basic single axel, spare, jack wheel, etc.

I usually try to tow with as little fuel in the tank as possible.

Doesn't add up to 3500.

boatdryver posted 06-11-2011 07:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for boatdryver  Send Email to boatdryver     
There's no such thing as just "towing"

the extremes vary from a person who tows a mile on city streets to and from a ramp once a year to someone who tows 75 mph for hours and climbs over and then must descend mountain passes at 10,000 ft.

You have to use your head and decide on how much you are willing to risk the lives of your family and others if you exceed the capability yourself and of your vehicle.

JimL

pcrussell50 posted 06-11-2011 07:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
Well, I guess it depends on how you perceive towing -ought- to be. Here in southern California, it's not unusual for competent towers to abide by the 55mph speed limit for towing, and to slow to a crawl, to make it up some of the steep freeway grades, like the Cajon Pass or the climb up over the Santa Monica mountains on the 101 southbound out of Camarillo. It's equally not unusual to find some wasteful dirtbag towing 600 lbs of dirtbikes and trailer at 80mph up the same grades with a 3/4 or 1-ton, full size diesel truck that can safely row 20 TIMES that weight in the hands of a careful tower with a professional attitude.

-Peter

Destin_Dauntless posted 06-11-2011 07:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Destin_Dauntless    
Dump the car, get a truck. I did, you'll be much happier all the way around :-)
pcrussell50 posted 06-11-2011 09:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
Not me. Too young, too addicted to adrenaline to waste valuable money on something as slow and dead-handling as a truck... unless I need one. Then I'll have to make my wife drive it, or pinch my nose, and tough it out, if I'm forced to drive it myself. Trouble is, the wife is used to manual transmission, uber-sedans herself. She might hate a truck almost as much as I do.

Some guys are fighter-types, some guys are tanker-types. It doesn't take much imagination to guess which one you are.

-Peter

dowdhh posted 06-11-2011 10:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for dowdhh  Send Email to dowdhh     
Jake, What type of car are we talking about? I have an 05 Ford Escape (3.0 V6) pulling a 13' Whaler with no problem, but I can feel it. I might be ok pulling a 17' but no way an 20' Outrage. In the past I had a 20' Grady White, the 4.0 V6 in my Ford Explorer also did the job but, I could feel it for sure. Don't push your luck. H
pcrussell50 posted 06-12-2011 12:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
BTW, I still have not recommended towing anything you are not comfortable with. I have what may be the heaviest Montauk on the list, (an Alert 17), which is 100lbs heavier than the regular Montauk, has the heaviest motor you can hang on the transom, Merc 90hp FourStroke, electric trim tabs, full electronics suite, dual batteries, HEAVY trolling motor, super heavy duty steel trailer, and it tows effortlessly behind our 15 year old v6 Explorer, (which drives like a truck and is agonizing to drive after a stint in a properly sporting car). For the short haul, I tow l to the local harbor behind a 1986 Nissan Stanza. I don't think I would tow it over the Rockies with the Stanza, but for local harbor duty, it's juuust fine. And at well under $900 blue book, it leaves me more money for fun toys, not trucks.

-Peter

weekendwarrior posted 06-12-2011 06:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for weekendwarrior  Send Email to weekendwarrior     
You will probably be able to" tow" it ok; it's the stopping and turning were you are likely to have trouble. Especially in less than optimal conditions. Both fairly important in my opinion. I personally would not tow over the rating, it is there for good reason.
gnr posted 06-12-2011 10:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for gnr    
Lizzie,

I guarantee if you put that 18 on a scale on the way to the ramp you will be very surprised with the actual weight. Same goes for the total weight of the entire package.

For someone who is so very concerned with the welfare of others you are exposing both your ignorance and your hypocrisy right here. If your vehicle has "everything it can do" to even attain highway speeds then you are grossly overloading that vehicle.

Someone who is as safety conscious as you should realize that it is less about the pulling and more about the stopping. Especially keeping things under control in a panic stop situation.

It's hilarious that you will go out of your way to preach the necessity of (pick your piece of safety equipment) but will think nothing of endangering the lives of everyone sharing the road with you.

gnr posted 06-12-2011 10:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for gnr    
Peter,

Regarding the optimistic tow ratings.

The manufacturers have to have an answer for the uniformed who ask the question. Especially when the vehicle is something intended for some towing. Of course they want this number to be as high as possible so they will throw a number out there that is based on absolutely best case scenario.

You will find the real deal in the fine print in the owners manual. Usually if you do the math that number the marketing department gave you will be with absolutely nothing in the vehicle except for one 120lb driver and a half tank of fuel.

All the numbers you need to know regarding capacity can be found on the drivers sided door jamb. Then you need to either weigh your rig or be realistic with a conservative estimate of its weight. This is where the conventional wisdom of towing to 75% of the capacity comes into play.

As usual it is all in the fine print.

pcrussell50 posted 06-12-2011 11:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
Interestng! I always went by the rating in the manual, and I never thought to look in the door jamb. Thanks for that!

-Peter

Tollyfamily posted 06-12-2011 12:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tollyfamily  Send Email to Tollyfamily     
It's all about the trailer brakes and the hitch capacity.

Dan

Thirsty Whaler posted 06-12-2011 02:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Thirsty Whaler  Send Email to Thirsty Whaler     
The automobile industry is inching toward a standardized criteria for assessment of tow rating for vehicles that goe into effect in 2013: SAEJ2807 standards
domlynch posted 06-12-2011 11:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for domlynch    
It's all about the lawyers and the insurance companies. DON'T exceed any of their requirements i.e. if you legally need brakes to tow in your State, get 'em. It is a headache but it's better than fighting the law...+ the insurance companies.
They DON'T take any prisoners...and I doubt they ever will....
Plus...common sense.....stick within the manufacturer's towing limits for your vehicle...+ brakes if required by law...

If you exceed your vehicle's towing limit + don't have brakes when (& if) your State requires them, I don't think you have a leg to stand on....

And no, I'm not a lawyer....or in the insurance industry....


Dom

domlynch posted 06-12-2011 11:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for domlynch    
If you need to know (i.e. have doubts re) the mass of your rig, (boat, motor, trailer + extras),then I suggest taking it to a certified public weighbridge and get a certificate... - at least then you are dealing with fact....which I imnagine is what local authorities + insurance companies will want to know in the event of any issue (e.g. traffic accident - even if its not your fault etc)


Dom

domlynch posted 06-12-2011 11:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for domlynch    
PS...New South Wales, Australia, is apparently the 2nd most litigious State in the world.......with California being No 1....
I got my (inherited, US Import) classic Montauk's trailer fitted with brakes etc....I would'nt have a leg to stand on otherwise....
So get what you need for your location + towing vehicle,

Happy boating


Dom

leadsled posted 06-13-2011 10:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for leadsled  Send Email to leadsled     
Towing is one thing, but getting the rig started up a steep ramp is what will really put a strain on the drive train.
litnin posted 06-13-2011 11:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for litnin  Send Email to litnin     
If you love boating and have to tow...I'm with Destin, dump the car and get a truck. My F250 diesel weighs 7460 lbs. and my 19 Outrage II rig with a full tank of fuel and all the gear weighs 3480 lbs. for a total of 10940 lbs. Add about 500 lbs. for family members and their stuff and we're at approximately 11,440 lbs. My truck tows it like a living dream and I get the peace of mind that it will do all that it needs to do in every situation. For the truck bashers....I even like driving it. I have sports cars for other needs. Get the right gear for the right job. Reminds me of those do-it-all homeowners gizmos...they don't do any of it very well.
andrey320 posted 06-13-2011 11:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for andrey320  Send Email to andrey320     
Keep it legal.
Having said that, I tow pretty much at capacity with something most people laugh at - a 1993 Toyota Camry V6 station wagon. I am just under my max rating of 2,000 pounds towing my Dauntless 15.

Peter, my usual commute to/from the ramp takes me over the dreaded Conejo Grade that you mentioned (101 in Camarillo). I read somewhere that it is the steepest/longes stretch of freeway in California. I get a little tense every time I start going up. The car has to downshift into second gear with the motor running close to 5,000 RPMs to keep up the 50 mph. There are always cars and trucks on the side "cooling off". I wonder how long my car can take this....

By the way, the owner manual for my car recommends a top speed of 45 mph....

pcrussell50 posted 06-13-2011 12:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
quote:
For the truck bashers....I even like driving it. I have sports cars for other needs. Get the right gear for the right job. Reminds me of those do-it-all homeowners gizmos...they don't do any of it very well.

Get the right car for the right job... indeed. That's why I have a 15 year old v6 Explorer to tow 2500Lbs worth of fully loaded Montauk, and not $60,000 worth of 3/4 ton truck that could have been spent better. That said, the truck-framed Explorer, while having been amazingly reliable, is such a dead fish to drive when not towing, that I am thinking of getting a Honda Odyessy minivan. The previous owner, also a CWW member, used to tow it with his minivan. The Odyessy and Toyota Sienna have carlike road feel and performance that no truck can match. If I have to go slowly up steep hills, I can live with that. If I have to have 18-wheeler-like stopping performance, I'll just have to suck it up and drive observantly and professionally like they do, to stay safe. I'm ok with that, too.

The only way I'd consider a serious truck, is if I had a load that warranted it. Otherwise, the rest of the tradeoffs to owning a big truck are just too much for me.

-Peter

litnin posted 06-13-2011 12:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for litnin  Send Email to litnin     
Come on Peter, I never said to buy a new truck. No minivan can match towing performance with a full size diesel truck. Comfort, I'll concede. I towed my rig back from St. Pete to NC and it NEVER downshifted while climbing hills in OVERDRIVE. Diesel torque is unmatched for towing. Once you pull with diesel, there is no going back.
pcrussell50 posted 06-13-2011 03:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
Of course, a minivan can't match the towing capability of a diesel truck. 100% agreement there. Go back a half dozen posts ago to where I said that what you tow with depends on your expectations as a tower. The ability to maintain full speed up a hill, in overdrive, while towing my 17 Alert is not enough to overcome the other drawbacks of having a truck that can do that. I'm fine with taking my minivan out of overdrive and tucking in behind the semi's in the slow lane while climbing the Cajon Pass, in trade for having unladen acceleration, handling, road feel, room, mileage, price, easier parking in the small town I live in, and on and on that an Odyessy has all over a big truck. It's a a case of picking the right vehicle for the job, as was said earlier. In the commercial world, whether it's over the road truckers or airlines, if you pick too much vehcle for the job, you will be out of business before you know it. Since I have to work for a living, I owe it to my family to pick the right vehicle for the job. It would be irresponsible for me to pick too much vehicle for the job.

-Peter

russellbailey posted 06-13-2011 03:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for russellbailey  Send Email to russellbailey     
My experience is that I've not had any problems towing boats at the maximum weight rating, with either the 2,000 lb rating on my wife's Camry or the ~6,500 lb rating on my Expedition with small V8. I live in southwest Virginia with some significant grades to climb to go anywhere. I do have to be careful on steep ramps with the heavy trailer behind my 2wd Expedition but have not needed assistance at any ramp yet.

The heavier trailer does have 4-wheel disc brakes and Equalizer weight-distribution/sway control.

I do agree that it takes more focus towing at the maximum rating than at lower values. When I finish a 500 mile drive with the Outrage 25 behind my Expedition, I longingly envision a diesel 3/4 ton that I could just set on cruise control with the same load. But I only tow a few thousand miles a year.

pcrussell50 posted 06-13-2011 04:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
Thank you. Exactly my perspective. Well said.

-Peter

litnin posted 06-13-2011 04:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for litnin  Send Email to litnin     
Yes, well said. I have towed with lots of vehicles in my life, many that were underpowered, underbraked, outweighed, outclassed and out of control. It is a scary thing to have your tow vehicle pushed by the trailer, but even scarier in a panic situation. My tow vehicles have progressed with age and thankfully income. My company has a small trailer that I have towed to Georgia and back from NC with a new GMC Yukon XL with the largest Vortec V8 available and the factory towing package. It was a miserable trip as it kicked in and out of passing gear throughout the entire trip. With the diesel pickup, it just doesn't happen. It is a pleasure to tow with. I'm not suggesting that everyone purchase a diesel to tow their rig with...just sharing my observations. I suppose that it is like moving up from a 13" B&W television over the years to the latest and greatest digital large screen television. You just cannot go back.
pcrussell50 posted 06-13-2011 05:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
LOL. I like and agree with the 13"' black and white television analogy. only I apply it in reverse to what you do. Trucks are so awful and old school to own and operate, when you're not towing, that they are the 13" black and white tv. The rest of the time, I'll drive something fast and modern that feels alive in my hands... like a nice big LCD HD Tv.

-Peter

litnin posted 06-13-2011 05:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for litnin  Send Email to litnin     
That is funny. I appreciate them all but prefer the classic sports cars with character. My problem is that I won't sell anything. I get attached. Borrow a diesel and give er' a pull. Cheers!
pcrussell50 posted 06-13-2011 08:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
I like the modern, g-force machines :) ///M3-series BMW's through the E46. Then they got too heavy. Now, may favorite is the Z4 ///M coupe. At least that one _looks_ sort of classic in the sense that it's a 2-seater, with a long hood and a short deck. It's still too heavy, heavier than the E36 M3, but it's the best they've got. Word has it, it's the best dedicated track car they have EVER made. And that's saying something. It was a failure in the market and can be had for a song.

http://www.autoblog.com/media/2006/01/mcouperear.JPG

-Peter

pcrussell50 posted 06-13-2011 09:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
I meant to include in the last post that while I like modern'ish cars when it comes to sports cars, I LOVE OMC v4 crossflow, carbureted 2-stroke outboards, at least the "bubbleback" models.

The "flatback" v4 crossflows appear to have been on many a classic Montauk, and are over 10lbs lighter than the Mercury 90hp FourStroke that's on my Alert 17'... which I tow to our local harbor with an '86, four-cylinder, Nissan Stanza.

-Peter

Buckda posted 06-13-2011 10:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
If your situation requires you to drive a "lesser" tow vehicle - or one that is really nearing it's maximum rated load, consider a few upgrades to help you manage the most important situations - steering and stopping.

Brakes: Consider larger rotors with performance pads. Vented discs may not be necessary, but if you're towing down long hills at max rating, you may want them.

Suspension: you may want to upgrade your suspension package to handle the tongue weight and keep the vehicle weight balanced for better handling under hard braking situations (which often put a lot of load on the tongue).

Tires: These are the only four points where your vehicle touches the road..don't skimp. Buy high quality tires with an appropriate rating, and don't eek every single mile out of them - change them more often than you might if you weren't loading them like you do when towing.

I also think that a transmission cooler is important when towing the max load over longer distances. If you don't or won't use one, then consider learning how to change the transmission fluid and do it on a more aggressive schedule than the 'normal driving' schedule found in your manual. Note here that many new vehicles that are not used for towing frequently (and even some that are, like the Explorer) are no longer equipped with a transmission dipstick. On these vehicles, I think a tranny cooler is essential. It should cost about $150 at most dealerships.

These upgrades are important, and come in well below the cost of a much larger tow vehicle.

My recommendation is that you use a vehicle that has a GCVWR rating that is at least 25% more than your max load you expect to tow regularly...but if you must use a "lesser vehicle" then spend some time and energy making sure it's up to the task to do the job as safely as possible.

pcrussell50 posted 06-13-2011 11:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for pcrussell50  Send Email to pcrussell50     
Sage advice, as always, Dave. Notwithstanding our differences in preference of tow vehicle.

My old v6 Explorer has a transmission cooler and the "tow package", as well as good new tires, and brakes... always. My much older-still, '86 Nissan Stanza is a manual transmission, so a trans cooler is out of the question. It does only local harbor duty. It also has fully lockable 4wd, in case I need to get up a slippery ramp... which I have not needed yet.

-Peter

199213 posted 06-19-2011 09:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for 199213    
Here are my rambling thoughts after reading the thread to date.

I find that in just about any trailer towing thread in any forum over three posts you'll get some misinformation or miscommunication. Trailer towing laws are largely state based.

In California you can't tow more than 6000lbs unless the tow vehicle weighs more than 4000lbs.

In Utah you can't exceed the axle mfg or tire mfg ratings on the trailer or vehicle pulling it. (You'd be surprised how few states there is a law against that!)

If towing with a pickup truck registered in North Carolina, you need to pay registration weight on the combination of the truck and trailer weight, unless that trailer is a camper (RV lobbyists) or your tow vehicle is not a pickup truck (SUV lobbyists). Then regular registration weights/fees apply.

In New Jersey you can't tow trailers over 8' wide on town/city owned roads.

I live on the east coast but not in NC, so the CA and UT towing laws do not apply to me. NJ laws only apply a few days a year.


There are a lot of often repeated myths around tow ratings.

All tow and cargo ratings include AT LEAST 150lb driver and full fluids (battery acid, wiper fluid, coolant, transmission fluid, and even fuel). Once you get outside the world of full size trucks and SUVs that are highly competitive with tow rating, the ratings often include reasonable amounts of cargo/passengers in the vehicle while towing the max rated trailer.

But, the GVWR/GCWR from the vehicle manufacturer has no legal meaning anyway. Your GVWR is the number stamped on your registration, not your door panel. Pay more to the DMV and you can haul more weight. Weight laws are about protecting the roadways and taxing for road wear, not safety.

Often changing nothing more than the final gear ratio or adding transmission cooler and bigger radiator will result in a huge increase in your tow rating. In some cases the rating doubles with no changes to the brakes, transmission, suspension, etc.

For some reason people know that an insurance company would cover an insured driver going the wrong way on a one way road while drunk and asleep at the wheel. Yet many people believe exceeding their tow rating will allow the insurance company not to pay for an crash. I suggest you read your own policy. There is a clear list of things not covered. I have never seen such an exception about towing in a non-commercial policy.

Towing over the tow rating will usually void your transmission warranty. That is the point of the rating.


In the end its the combination of driver, vehicle, boat, trailer, boat/trailer setup, and geography.

A Lake Tahoe boater bothered by hearing their engine run at 1/2 of redline with a poorly balanced setup and poorly maintained brakes might find a combination horrible. A Lake Okeechobee boater who doesn't mind hearing the engine work when merging onto the highway and took the time to balance their trailer/maintain their brakes might find that same vehicle/boat/trailer combination works great.

Unless you have a combination that is clearly unsuitable, the best way to know if you have a good combination is to hook it up and drive it. If you find yourself having a deathgrip on the wheel, worried when you hit the brakes, or find yourself exhausted after an hour of towing, then I'll tell you that you have a bad combination even if you are well within your ratings. Some people also need to accept that the bad part of the combination may not be the tow vehicle or the trailer. It might be the driver. If you've never towed anything before it can be nerve wracking. You might need practice. On the other hand some people may not be cut out to tow ever. I get panic attacks riding in an Accord with my mother-in-law when she's not towing anything. :)

Slick 50 posted 06-19-2011 09:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for Slick 50  Send Email to Slick 50     
199213, well said.
Thanks for taking the time to post this info.
Rick
Waterwonderland posted 06-19-2011 10:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for Waterwonderland  Send Email to Waterwonderland     
Proper balance of the vehicle and trailer is important as well, especially when approaching the maximum capacity. Too much weight in the rear of the vehicle, on the tongue, at the one side of the trailer or at the rear of the trailer can make braking and handling much more dangerous than just a heavy load.

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