Author
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Topic: Outrage tunnels
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tbirdsey |
posted 04-30-2000 08:42 PM ET (US)
Spent most of this weekend refinishing teak gunwales (BTY, this is Webster's preferred spelling - not "gunnels") on my 18 Outrage. In the process of trying to remove the fuel filler (unsuccesful), I discovered lots of accumulated "gunk" where the vent and filler hose disappear into their tunnel. My question is this, do the tunnels need to be cleaned out periodically and if so, how? This is the first time I've had to go near them since buying the boat two years ago. I also noticed some places where the silicone (I assume) sealant around the tunnel covers and tank cover is starting to pull away from one side. Does this need to be replaced? With what? BTY the port side teak looks fantastic; next weekend the stern.
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David Reid
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posted 05-01-2000 11:08 PM ET (US)
I faced your gunk/caulking job on my '86 Outrage 18' last winter. From the open hose covers and the round deck plates, you can reach a lot of the gas tank to remove accumulated crud. But unless you plan to remove the console and tank cover/deck, you're going to live with some hidden gunk in the tunnels. If you think you've got some blockage, try running a 12' plumbers snake from the hose cover back to the bilge/sump at the rear. That ought to push anything serious (dead rat, cat, etc.) to where you can remove it (with tongs!) Then go see West Marine for a couple tubes of their white silicon deck caulking and one of their little red caulk removing tools. I cleaned my entire gas cover/decking caulk trench in about four hours of pushing that tool around. Clean it well, and vacuum out the pieces. Once you have a really clean trench, caulk it. I could pull a fair looking bead with the end of the W/M tool, as I recall. My finger worked where the trench was wider than the tool. A rag full of mineral spirits to clean alongside the new caulk as you go helps. Took me another two hours to finish out the caulking. Ended up looking "like new" and I'm through sending new gunk down below the deck for a while. Good luck! |
lhg
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posted 05-16-2000 07:43 PM ET (US)
Does anybody know exactly what Whaler used to originally caulk these floor joints in the desert beige Outrages? I know that it was not white, and is not a standard silicon caulking product. I have not been able to locate the same material. |
tbirdsey
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posted 05-17-2000 12:39 PM ET (US)
Larry: Looks to me like it might be clear silicone; I am going to be replacing portions of a few joints this weekend and will be pulling some old (presumably original) sealant out - I'll let you know if I am able to get a good match. |
kingfish
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posted 05-17-2000 01:09 PM ET (US)
Larry,The caulking on my Outrage is not a silicone product. I don't know what it is for sure, but it does act like a rubber (not silicone)product, possibly two-part, possibly a thiokol-type stuff. |
lhg
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posted 05-17-2000 02:15 PM ET (US)
Tom: If your boat has clear silicone caulking, I know it's not original, since silicone, especially clear, was not used. I have tried the beige Dow silicone product and it doesn't look too bad, but it's not the same stuff at all. John's description is pretty good, but I guess neither of us know what it is. It's not like anything I've ever used in construction. I wonder if there's anybody left at the Company that would know. |
kent
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posted 05-17-2000 06:22 PM ET (US)
I am just wondering if the sealant that you guys might be wanting to use is 3M Scotch Seal Sealant 5200. It is available in white, tan or mahogany color. I don't believe that it is a silicon based sealant. By todays standards, silicon based sealing products are considered pretty low tech. In my construction company, we use polyurethane products extensively for exterior exposure, and the silicon based products for interior applications. Just a thought. |
dfmcintyre
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posted 05-17-2000 08:25 PM ET (US)
Kent -Only use 5200 (and it's brother, Fast Cure 5200) if you don't want to remove whatever your bedding it in. The seal is extremely strong. 3M 4200 Fast Cure is a poly based but I think it's only available in white or black. Don |
lhg
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posted 05-18-2000 01:58 AM ET (US)
Yes, I agree, Don. I can't imagine caulking the deck seams with 5200, and that is not what Whaler used. Still looking for an answer. Have we finally stumped this forum? |
kent
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posted 05-19-2000 08:32 PM ET (US)
I took the liberty of contacting Whaler service about the caulking. Here is their reply as per e-mail from Chuck Bennett.There are a number of silicones offered by Starbrite... Whaler part numbers are... 352443 for Almond. 751289 Beige. 1081694 Desert Beige. They are all pretty close in tint and can be ordered through your local Boston Whaler Dealer (sorry, no factory direct). Chuck Bennett Customer Care Rep. Hope this helps. |
lhg
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posted 05-19-2000 11:27 PM ET (US)
Kent: thanks for your efforts in digging up that valuable information! I suppose I could have done that myself if I wasn't so lazy. It's going to be fun going to the local Sea Ray Dealer (now also selling Whalers) and having him order that stuff for me. I'll keep you posted. |
kent
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posted 05-19-2000 11:58 PM ET (US)
No problem, Larry. Just trying to be helpful. I don't have need for the caulking in my 13, but I am always interested in these kind of things. I am surprised to learn that Whaler uses a silicone based product. I thought that they would have used a polyurethane caulk. What would you suggest to use to seal the thru-hull fittings ( ski hooks, outboard brackets, etc.)?Also, on another note, sort of, I am still wondering about the oarlocks on my boat. As I mentioned before, when I put a screwdriver into the oarlock opening, I am sure that I am into the foam. There is no detioration or delamination around the oarlocks, but should I be concerned about this? I want to retain the oarlocks. Should I try to put some sealant into the bottom of the opening, or was there some kind of cap that would have originally been placed on the oarlock to prevent water from getting into the opening? |
dburton
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posted 05-26-2000 10:53 AM ET (US)
As a result of this post I have looked closely at the seams of my deck plates of my '86 18'Outrage. I do need to redo all of caulking. Is this something that I can wait until fall/winter to do? Does any water that goes down a seam simply go out a tunnel to the bilge? |
kingfish
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posted 05-26-2000 03:30 PM ET (US)
Trying to extract foot from mouth, here...Contrary to the unequivocal statement I made earlier in this thread about what the whaler caulking was *not*, in concert with the clear, concise and accurate information in later posts above, and witnessed by a closer inspection of the caulking in my Outrage, I find I have to say, my caulking is some kind of...ummm...(silicone)..., too. |
tbirdsey
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posted 05-26-2000 10:57 PM ET (US)
I also got a response from Chuck Bennett stating that silicone is the stuff to use for deck caulking. While at Home Depot tonight, I checked out the caulk department. Found GE silicone in almond color. Picked up a tube for less than five bucks and will experiment tomorrow - looks like a pretty good match from what I can see on the tube. |
kent
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posted 05-30-2000 06:11 PM ET (US)
I came across the calking question on another board that I visit. It's not Whaler oriented, just a boating site, but if anyone is interested in the question and replies there go to: http://www.wmi.org/www/boating/boatboard/T15522.htmBy the way, I have seen The Classic Whaler website mentioned there when the topic has been Whalers, and it was referred to as a good site. |
lhg
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posted 05-24-2001 01:11 AM ET (US)
Keeping this information alive. |
lhg
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posted 06-15-2001 02:05 PM ET (US)
Jim - thanks for finding this one for me. I knew it was out there somewhere! |
jstachowiak
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posted 07-12-2002 09:13 AM ET (US)
I found the tunnels on my '79 Newport 17 clogged and greasy. I pulled out as much as I could with my hand and a stick and then put a high concentration of West Marine bilge cleaner with the drain plug in and drove the boat around to wash the tunnel out. Did this a couple of times and the tunnel was a clean as new. |