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  Awlgrip or Imron paint?

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Author Topic:   Awlgrip or Imron paint?
stagalv posted 12-07-2000 03:25 PM ET (US)   Profile for stagalv   Send Email to stagalv  
I am going to paint my Montauk soon (or shall I say, "have it painted") and wanted to know opinions on which paint is better Imron or Awlgrip. I had a 13 sport which was repainted w/Imron and it looked great but would scratch easily if you were not careful. I have already priced both and there isn't much difference in cost. Any opinions? Rex
bigz posted 12-07-2000 03:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for bigz    
Look into the Interlux 2 part system it is the only one which comes out looking great using a roller or brush --- of course if you have the necessary safety and spray set up it can also be sprayed on ---
stagalv posted 12-07-2000 04:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for stagalv  Send Email to stagalv     
It is going to be a professional spray job and thats why I would choose to use Imron or Awlgrip. Thanks for the note.
dfmcintyre posted 12-07-2000 05:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     

The problem (coat thickness, or lack therof) with Imron or Awlgrip convinced me to allow my paintshop to use a two part product by Sikkens. They could spray it on quite thick to minimize the scratch-through problem. Very little if any orange peel, and very durable.

Best - Don

Paint Legend posted 12-07-2000 06:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for Paint Legend  Send Email to Paint Legend     
AWL-GRIP!!!!, Here is the bottom-line, lets take a look at the marine paint market and what manufacturers use and don't forget Aviation and Aerospace. Here is a partial list of manufacturers that use US Paint AWL-GRIP or AWL-CRAFT 2000:
Palmer Johnson, Burger Boat, Fountain, Hatteras, Carver Yachts, Tiara Yachts, Formula, Cobalt, Coecles Harbor, Cruisers, Davis Boatworks, to name a few. I believe that when boat builders like Palmer Johnson and Burger Boat that build multi-million dollar 100'+ motoryachts use a particular paint there is a good reason, performance! With that said, as we all know painting is prepping. The finish results are only as good as the preping and application of the paint. You can use the worlds greatest paint and if the person doing the work doesn't know what they're doing you'll get crap, plain and simple. Spend more time finding a good reliable shop that knows how to use the product you chose. Paints do not handle the same and did manufacturers have different systems. Regardless of which paint you chose have your painter stick with an entire paint sytem. This will give you something to fall back on god forbid something would go wrong. If you mix systems the paint companies won't even touch a warranty situation. Also Imron isn't as flexible as AWL-GRIP, Sikkens is car paint and a division of Interlux.

Good luck,
Tom

Paint Legend posted 12-07-2000 06:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for Paint Legend  Send Email to Paint Legend     
Mistake, Sikkens and Interlux are divisions of Akzo Nobel. Also regarding mil build, more isn't always better. Thick paint coatings sag and run during application and later mud crack and become less felible.

Sorry for the mistake.

Tom

hauptjm posted 12-08-2000 10:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for hauptjm    
Not being a paint/finish expert, but having a practical opinion from experience, I'd say Awlgrip is the way to go. We've had several really good refits done in my area in the last 10 years that have used Awlgrip, and I'm very impressed with the duration and abuse this finish takes. I also agree that preparation is king. Interestingly, I've seen some boats use ingenuity in helping to prevent premature wearing and doing a little customization at the same time. Example: at a liklely wear spot, the use of a stainless plate custom fitted at the bow section where the dock lines attached at the cleat and the anchor rode runs.
JimU posted 12-08-2000 11:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for JimU  Send Email to JimU     
I agree with bigz. I just restored a beat-up 1970 16-7 whaler with Interlux interthane plus two part paint. They have a great technical service dept--800 NUM. Check out their website at yachtpaint.com
matt posted 12-09-2000 12:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for matt  Send Email to matt     
have you considered a new gel coat?it doesnt scratch like paint!.plus i have always had a problem with buying a painted fibreglass boat.reminds me of the upkeep in my wood boat days.two years ago i regel- coated a 13' whaler,it turned out nice didnt scratch like paint and was relatively easy to do.but better than that it retained its value.
stagalv posted 12-09-2000 10:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for stagalv  Send Email to stagalv     
Thanks for the great opinions! After listening to opinions on this site and from local boat yard guys, I have decided to go with Awlgrip. The gelcoat idea is great but it is quite a bit more expensive. I am paying $2000 which includes all fiberglass repairs (none major, just nicks) and new nonskid plus painting the aluminum legs on the RPS. One of the great things about having your boat fully repainted is that it gives you a chance to fill any old holes, make any repairs or modifications then have them painted over. I am trying to decide weather or not to keep my forward bow/side rails. I have spoken to some folks who took them off because it gets in the way of fishing, gets cought under docks, rattles alot... If I leave them off I can fill the holes and have them painted over for a professional finish. Can anyone think of any mods which may be great to do before the Awlgrip? Thanks again. Rex
dfmcintyre posted 12-09-2000 02:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
Rex -

Whatever product you use, like the others said, prep is all important. My reno project was a '73 Outrage, that had multiple holes all over it. Even with a fairly thick coat of the Sikkens paint, some areas where we filled I can spot, even though no one else can (mabye their being polite?). I believe this had something to do with a very, very slight shrinkage of the filler agent. Make sure the shop knows what their doing.

Is the console gutted and ready for paint too? If so, and there is a large number of instrument and accessory holes that your considering filling, think about just ripping out the whole instrument face of the console and glassing in a new piece of plywood.

Along that thought, I'll pass along something I found out while talking with another forum member. He's got a pretty new model, and when cutting into the panel, had a suprising amount of water come out, evidently _trapped_ between the resin'ed sides, inside of the wood. His suggestion would be to drill out the instrument holes, add a coat of resin to the hole, let it set up then mount the instrument. That way, no water can enter.

You going to have to take the hardware off anyways, filling the holes would not be too much of a problem (I'd dimple, very slightly each filled hole prior to painting, just to make it easier to mount the rails, if so inclined).

How are they going to do the non-skid as you mentioned?

Best - Don

stagalv posted 12-09-2000 03:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for stagalv  Send Email to stagalv     
Thanks Don, The shop cannot duplicate the nonskid so what they will do (they did it on my 13) is apply the sand grit in a nice uniform coat. It really looks professional. This is a good shop which paints many larger boats such as Hatteras, Bertram etc.. On the console I have it gutted and I am not going to attempt to fill any of the holes. If it comes down to it I will use starboard to remount instruments. I plan to mount two AGM batts in the console after cutting a hole in the console false bottom for each batt box. This way the batt weight will rest on the deck instead of pulling loose the console bottom. Keep coming with ideas if anyone has them! Rex
Paint Legend posted 12-09-2000 04:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Paint Legend  Send Email to Paint Legend     
Don-

Good decision!!

I hope it turns out great!!

Tom

MUSTANG16 posted 08-25-2005 08:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for MUSTANG16  Send Email to MUSTANG16     
What is the pros and cons of gel-coat. Is the product really that expensive or is the difficulty in the preperation? If anyone has had experience in this I would appreciate any advice or information.

Gary

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