posted 01-08-2001 09:17 AM ET (US)         

"Seaworthy" had whole article dedicated to fuel tanks this past summer. while it dealt with enclosed tanks buried in the bilge some where, the information applies to this thread as well.

Based on what I read, I would never use a stainless steel tank. They are the most likely to develope leaks. Many of the claims that Boat? US paid were for fairly young boats.

Aluminum is much better, but why go to the expense of a custom tank when:

Plastic tanks seem to be the best. They leak less, are durable, light, and cheap. Plus static electricity is a far less concern.

Leaks on a Montauk aren't as much of a concern as on an Outrage or Dauntless. The gas fumes won't accumulate so explosions aren't as likely. Catastropic leaks would be plenty obvious, and small leaks should be easy to find.

I would suggest getting one of the Tempo tanks made for a Montauk.

posted 01-08-2001 06:32 PM ET (US)            

It is nasty stuff to work with, but is virtually indestructible. Unless you have the capabilities and equipment, it is best for a professional. Additionally, US paint makes enough colors that you can probably match the color of your whaler.

posted 01-15-2001 05:22 PM ET (US)            

The most common was a 12-gallon tank with mechanical gauge with rough dimensions of 12 x 14 x 18.5

The fittings were located in three different locations depending on which model boat. I am trying to put a production run together, so if anybody has interest, please let me know.

We can make virtually any size fuel tank from aluminum, any configuration. ALso, the aluminized steel line is being improved by adding a plastic (poly) coat rather than paint. The poly coat is the same sprayed on plastic used for sprayed truck bed liners.

Feel free to email me about the 12-gallon tank if you are looking for one, or any other tank you may be looking for. 12-gallon aluminum tanks are in the $195 range and aluminized steel tanks run about $20 to $30 less expensive (with the poly coat).

All tanks include gauge, withdrawal, and cap (if required).

Feel free to email me at ollie@mirax.com or fax me at 314-752-5500.

posted 01-15-2001 05:38 PM ET (US)            

Plastic fuel tanks are not safe. The risk of static electricity explosion is GREATER in plastic tanks as they are not easily grounded and rarely grounded properly. One example is plastic jugs in truck beds - very dangerous. Either use a metal container or make sure the jugs are secured, preferably with a cloth buffer between the jug and the truck bed (whether it's plastic or metal bed).

Safety: Plastic tanks pass the fire test on a MINIMUM side of the requirement. Watching this test will make you NEVER buy a car or boat with a plastic tank in it. The plastic eventually melts, releasing fuel and causing an explosion. Metal tanks, however, force the fuel through the vent at a consistent rate as the tank does not change shape as the plastic tanks distort. Therefore, on a metal tank, the fuel burns at a consistant rate where it is vented, but the explosion typical of plastic tanks does not occur. The tank is simply pressurized and the fuel slowly forced out.

Another falsehood is plastic is less expensive than metal. Many times metal tanks are LESS expensive than plastic. Plastic MUST be run in quanity to produce a product at a reasonable dollar figure. It also costs hundreds of thousands of dollars for all the equipment to mold plastic tanks.

Metal prices (treated steel and aluminum) are way way way down, and plastic keeps going up. Also, metal tanks are much more readily recycled. Plastic tanks are NOT environmentally friendly. Another point,

posted 01-18-2001 12:38 AM ET (US)            

One of the fuel line fittings is plugged, the
other has the pickup.

I did have the pickup tube come unsoldered
from the fitting when about 10 miles from
the dock. We removed the rubber hose from
the pickup and shoved it in the filler, and
taped the bulb to the filler and got home
no sweat. Even stopped to do another dive.
The original solder job was really ugly.
It took me about five minutes at home to
resolder it (after a thorough air out of
the line and fitting).

posted 01-24-2001 12:52 PM ET (US)         

"Filling a Container

There have been several fires at service stations when customers placed metal containers on plastic bed liners in pickup trucks while filling the containers with gasoline. Filling a container is a special situation that requires extra precautions:

• Use only an UL-approved plastic or metal container.

• Shut off the vehicle's engine.

• Place the container on the ground a safe distance from the vehicle, other customers,
and traffic. Don't fill a container in or on a car or truck.

• Keep the nozzle in contact with the container during filling.

• Control the nozzle valve manually; do not latch it open. If the nozzle is fitted with a
fume-recycling device, the filler-spout seal must be compressed to activate the dispenser.

• Do not smoke.

• Avoid breathing gasoline fumes. Flowing gasoline generates a static electric charge that builds up on the gasoline in the receiving container. If the charge isn't given an opportunity to dissipate, it could jump from the container to the metal spout of the dispenser nozzle as a static spark. If a spark occurs near the open mouth of the container where the concentration of gasoline vapor and air is in the flammable range, it could ignite the gasoline. Putting the container on the ground and keeping the nozzle in contact with the container help dissipate the static charge. The charge will dissipate more slowly from a container being filled on an insulating
surface — carpet in the trunk of a car and on the bed of a utility vehicle or the plastic bed liner of a pickup truck. Placing the container on the ground has the secondary benefit that an accidental spill won't contaminate the vehicle. Fill the container only about 95% full. This leaves room for gasoline to expand if it warms up in storage. Without an air space, expansion will force liquid gasoline out of the container or distort the container."

Notice that in the first paragraph that the problem is due to filling metal tanks in pickup with palstic bedliners. Not plastic tanks!!!

posted 04-12-2001 09:57 AM ET (US)            

You can pull the tube out just by unscrewing
the fitting where it comes out. If you do
that, be sure to inspect the solder joint
where the tube attaches to the top fitting.
Mine had a cold solder joint there and the
tube fell into the tank after a while.
We got the boat home by removing the hose
from the QD and shoving it in the tank filler
tube. It took about 10 minutes to resolder
at home.

posted 04-16-2001 06:46 PM ET (US)         

But unless you need portability for filling, I'd get the 28 gallon tank, and teak block hold-down kit instead. Tank is $105 bought right. Hold down kit is about $15. Install the tank back far enough to leave "heel" space when driving, and so the tank cap is behind the seat for filling without moving it. Instead of the twin Whaler gas tank mats, I'd put some "dry-dek", cut to fit, under the tank. Washdown water can then run under it.

posted 04-16-2001 07:58 PM ET (US)            

The PBW12 will not fit under a Montauk seat. I tried one from the last batch we got in just to check if they had lowered the profile.

I run the Tempo 28 gal in my Montauk and it fits great.

posted 05-01-2001 01:44 PM ET (US)            

I'm curious because I'm thinking of redoing the installation of the Tempo 28 on my Montauk. The tank is currently chocked so that the fill hole is accessable without moving the tank. That means that the tank isn't completely under the seat. There is probably 4" of the tank that sticks out toward the back of the boat. It would be more comfortable for passengers sitting in the RPS when facing backward if the tank was flush.

What about using a pair of transom tie-down straps to secure the tank? A 1 or 2" wide by 4' strap connected from one leg of the RPS to the other, one in front and one in back, I think would do the job. That would mean I wouldn't have to drill more holes in the deck for the teak chocks. To fill the tank I would just loosen the rear strap and slide the tank back.

Any thoughts?

posted 07-26-2001 07:23 PM ET (US)            

I just installed my new 28 gallon Tempo and am okay happy with the installation. The teak mounting blocks are on back order at West Marine (F.Y.I.).

I didn't like the idea of having to move my tank aft for filling so I installed it four inches aft. I removed the two gray rubber mats. I was able to use the two outboard eyelets and connect both black nylon straps together to go around the tank.

I bent up three aluminum angles at work (acid etched and alodined them). Then using existings holes in the boat I put one on each side and one aft. The holes from the rubber mats were not square so I had to mount the angles in two diferent directions on the sides.

posted 07-27-2001 10:22 AM ET (US)            

Unbolted the seat for the right and left support. Bolted a quality stainless hinge on the front on each support and bolted the seat back down to the hinge.

It's unnoticable, allows me to prop the seat up for refueling with a soda can, small piece of wood, etc.. Can also tilt the seat more for instant and easy access to the entire top of the tank...

good luck...

john

posted 08-13-2001 01:04 PM ET (US)            

Since I have been unable to find a replacement, does anyone have any suggestions or examples of what they have used?

posted 08-15-2001 05:39 PM ET (US)            

I opted for two 13-gal Tempos instead of one 19-gal, or one 28-gal tank in my Montauk. The reason is that as long as you don't cruise in a straight line with the weather at your back, you'll always be able to make it back home when the 1st tank runs out. In this way, I don't have to keep a constant eye on the fuel level. Also, ever try to lift a full 28-gal tank. It's over 200 lbs. Tanks this large eliminate the option of driving it to the station (usually cheaper) in the back of your pick-up.

posted 08-15-2001 06:23 PM ET (US)            

The tank mats are available from any Boston Whaler dealer. They are spendy and I believe the only color available is grey.

posted 08-15-2001 07:52 PM ET (US)            

There's a photo of the two caps side by side in the photo section of my new site. It's in the album titled "Paul's '79 Montauk"

http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/bostonwhalers

Just thought I'd pass it along.

posted 08-24-2001 08:12 AM ET (US)            

Anyways, here's another fuel cap replacement for the Tempo: Quicksilver P/N 36-816976Q 1. One and a half inches high vs. 58" (I'm pretty sure) for the Tempo. Just bought a pair for $13 and change, tax included.

posted 08-24-2001 10:37 AM ET (US)            

BOOM. Was that the space station or HH
passing overhead. ;-)

posted 10-28-2001 10:40 AM ET (US)            

After much experimentation and buying half a dozen or so low profile caps that didn't fit I found one at the local Wal-Mart, Yard & Garden department, that fits like it was made for it: $3.97. It is labeled for a variety of yard tractors.

The big tank now nestles under the seat just fine. The trade off, of course, is that I have to loosen the straps and slide it out to fill it or to look at the very unreliable guage. With Suzi DF70 on board I don't need to do that very often.

posted 10-30-2002 09:02 AM ET (US)            

The tank has large capacity which is great for me as I have no nearby marine fueling.

posted 08-10-2006 08:03 AM ET (US)            

Re using a C27 instead of C24: Has anyone installed the C27 in a newer Montauk lately? Can you fill the C27 without moving the tank?

posted 08-11-2006 03:13 PM ET (US)            

The Tempo after five years was deforming with the middle bulging out, and the top bending in. The seal around the fuel pickup began leaking like the Titanic after the iceberg. No more flexible tanks for my 2000 Montauk.

The C27 fits under the seat but in order to use the fuel line opening in the deck,and the stock fuel tank pads, the pads had to be moved forward a bit, and cut to allow the Pate to sit level.

posted 08-11-2006 09:50 PM ET (US)            

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/012667.html