posted 08-13-2001 09:02 AM ET (US)
Not hardening when exposed to air is a property of gelcoat. You have to cover it up to get it to harden.You can spray it with Polyvinyl Alcohol (PVA), or you can cover it with a sheet of platic wrap.
Also, introducing the tinting agent may have affected the catalyzation. Perhaps you needed a little more catalyst.
One interesting difference between epoxy and polyester resins like gelcoat:
With epoxy you are supplying two different sets of molecules (the resin and the hardener) which will chemically link up and bond. Therefore it is very important to mix them in the exact ratios, otherwise you'll have some of one type of molecule left over and not bonded to anything, making the batch weaker.
With resin, the stuff is all set to harden, it is just waiting for the catalyst to start the reaction. Once started, it is a matter of time, temperature, and reaction rate before it cures. Apparently the presence of air inhibits curing to a hard surface.
When making boats in female molds, the gelcoat goes in first and thus cures to hardness because it is later covered with more material. In fact, this is an advantage because you want the follow-up layers to form a primary bond to the gelcoat layer. So the laminate layers are added as the gelcoat is curing, and they all cure together with primary bonds.
Epoxy is a stronger adhesive and can produce stronger secondary bonds than polyester resins, so for making repairs is produces better bonding.
The knock on epoxy (besides the higher cost) is that some people have trouble topcoating epoxy with gelcoat. That is caused by failure to remove the amine blush on the cured epoxy, which can only be removed by hard scrubbing with soap and water. Solvents like acetone will not remove amine.
I have the repair-with-epoxy trick down pretty well, but I am still learning about topcoating with gelcoat and getting a good match. There are some holes on the transom that will be my next spot for experimentation.
--jimh