1978 Outrage 21 constant fuel/water problems

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Author Topic:   1978 Outrage 21 constant fuel/water problems

ctoutrage posted 10-27-2001 12:10 PM ET (US)
I have a 1978 21' Outrage. I am having constant water problems. I have to change fuel filters ever third week. Because of the age of the hull, has anyone changed the gas tank in this hull? How do I locate an original sized 40 gallon tank? How big of a job am I looking at? Has anyone has similar problems? Any quick fixes? Help!!!
dfmcintyre posted 10-27-2001 06:28 PM ET (US)
If your having that much problem with water in the tank, _and_ have determined that it's _not_ just a large amount of water in the tank, then I'd have to think that the age of the tank, plus it being located in a salt water area qualifies your boat for at least an uncovering of the tank for a look see.

I have a 1973 model that I replaced the tank in.
Contact Florida Marine Tanks, Inc
16480 N.W. 48th Avenue
Miami, FL 33014
305-620-9030v 305-621-8524f
Mine cost $260 in July, 1999
Jim Bennett has recently ordered one, and may have a better handle on current cost.
While it's not a hard job, you have to remove the seats and naturally, the fuel cavity cover. Mine had been previously opened by a prior owner, so I didn't have to contend with any siliconed seams.
One quick fix you want to stay away from, is thinking about pulling the tank, finding that it is corroded and just wrapping it in fiberglass. Bad choice. While there are tanks made from fiberglass, the movement of the tank, against the glass, and glass against the tank cavity floor and walls will eventually break down the barrier.
At the same time, you might want to replace all the rubber fuel tank lines, if they are of the same age.
It should take a good weekend day to accomplish.
don
ctoutrage posted 10-29-2001 11:41 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply. It looks as if someone has been in there prior. There are stainless screws all along the cover for the tank. After I remove the floor panel, what am I looking at? Is the tank sealed in foam? How do I re-seal the floor panel for a complete water tight seal?
dfmcintyre posted 10-29-2001 02:34 PM ET (US)
The SS screws are normal. Even when the factory siliconed down the lid, they also screwed it too.
When you remove it, you'll see the tank, two metal hold down straps, and the connections to the vent (forward) and fuel feed (in the back.
I can't say for certain if the tanks of that era were foamed in place. I can say that my tank cavity was devoid of any indications, i.e. foam residue, scrapings along the walls, etc that would indicate to me that the first one was foamed into place.
If your going the route of sealing the tank lid in place, use a high quality _removable_ silicone (NOT 3M's 5200!!!) and apply around any area that is liable to allow water to enter.
Don
Jim Bennett posted 10-29-2001 07:37 PM ET (US)
ctoutrage,
In a previouspost on thread "Gas Tank cavity on 18' Outrage" I described how I am atttacking the problem of water accumulation in tank cavity similar to D McIntyre's solution with drain tube from cavity to bilge area behind but using 3/4 " ID (inner diameter) PVC. I am sealing all screwholes in lid and where they enter into rim around cavity with West epoxy. Will put some type of rubberized hatch sealer around lid (West Marine has several varieties) and just let lid weight hold it down. If necessary, may put some type of holdown clamps. Current quoted price from FMT for 40 gal tank is $280 plus shipping.
ctoutrage posted 11-01-2001 11:06 AM ET (US)
Hi, thanks for all the replies. I also emailed whaler with the same question. They recommend putting a loop in the overflow line, draining the tank and sucking all sediment and water. Then to do a pressure test on the tank prior to replacement. Any thoughts on this?
rbonilla posted 11-07-2001 03:03 PM ET (US)
check all hoses and fittings...this should be done at least once every 5 years...
grandmufti posted 11-08-2001 09:04 AM ET (US)
One area you might want to take a look at is the gas vent.If it is defective or turned forward to the waves it will injest water into the vent tube.Had this happen on a boat and was hard to find as it only took water when it was rough and the spray hit the fitting.
rgfdds posted 11-09-2001 05:46 AM ET (US)
my dad has a 1979 20 or had water fuel problems it turned out to be the overflow hose easy fix for a nightmare of a problem just removed the cover and followed back to the tank found a cracked hose hope this can help you
ron
ctoutrage posted 03-18-2002 01:30 PM ET (US)
Special thanks to dfmcintyre and jim bennett. Tank was ordered from FMT perfect match. The entire job was 4 hours including all new lines. Pictures and ideas from this site were a huge asset. Looking forward to a new season w/o constant water contamination. Thank you again-

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Author	Topic: 1978 Outrage 21 constant fuel/water problems
ctoutrage	posted 10-27-2001 12:10 PM ET (US) I have a 1978 21' Outrage. I am having constant water problems. I have to change fuel filters ever third week. Because of the age of the hull, has anyone changed the gas tank in this hull? How do I locate an original sized 40 gallon tank? How big of a job am I looking at? Has anyone has similar problems? Any quick fixes? Help!!!
dfmcintyre	posted 10-27-2001 06:28 PM ET (US) If your having that much problem with water in the tank, _and_ have determined that it's _not_ just a large amount of water in the tank, then I'd have to think that the age of the tank, plus it being located in a salt water area qualifies your boat for at least an uncovering of the tank for a look see. I have a 1973 model that I replaced the tank in. Contact Florida Marine Tanks, Inc 16480 N.W. 48th Avenue Miami, FL 33014 305-620-9030v 305-621-8524f Mine cost $260 in July, 1999 Jim Bennett has recently ordered one, and may have a better handle on current cost. While it's not a hard job, you have to remove the seats and naturally, the fuel cavity cover. Mine had been previously opened by a prior owner, so I didn't have to contend with any siliconed seams. One quick fix you want to stay away from, is thinking about pulling the tank, finding that it is corroded and just wrapping it in fiberglass. Bad choice. While there are tanks made from fiberglass, the movement of the tank, against the glass, and glass against the tank cavity floor and walls will eventually break down the barrier. At the same time, you might want to replace all the rubber fuel tank lines, if they are of the same age. It should take a good weekend day to accomplish. don
ctoutrage	posted 10-29-2001 11:41 AM ET (US) Thanks for the reply. It looks as if someone has been in there prior. There are stainless screws all along the cover for the tank. After I remove the floor panel, what am I looking at? Is the tank sealed in foam? How do I re-seal the floor panel for a complete water tight seal?
dfmcintyre	posted 10-29-2001 02:34 PM ET (US) The SS screws are normal. Even when the factory siliconed down the lid, they also screwed it too. When you remove it, you'll see the tank, two metal hold down straps, and the connections to the vent (forward) and fuel feed (in the back. I can't say for certain if the tanks of that era were foamed in place. I can say that my tank cavity was devoid of any indications, i.e. foam residue, scrapings along the walls, etc that would indicate to me that the first one was foamed into place. If your going the route of sealing the tank lid in place, use a high quality _removable_ silicone (NOT 3M's 5200!!!) and apply around any area that is liable to allow water to enter. Don
Jim Bennett	posted 10-29-2001 07:37 PM ET (US) ctoutrage, In a previouspost on thread "Gas Tank cavity on 18' Outrage" I described how I am atttacking the problem of water accumulation in tank cavity similar to D McIntyre's solution with drain tube from cavity to bilge area behind but using 3/4 " ID (inner diameter) PVC. I am sealing all screwholes in lid and where they enter into rim around cavity with West epoxy. Will put some type of rubberized hatch sealer around lid (West Marine has several varieties) and just let lid weight hold it down. If necessary, may put some type of holdown clamps. Current quoted price from FMT for 40 gal tank is $280 plus shipping.
ctoutrage	posted 11-01-2001 11:06 AM ET (US) Hi, thanks for all the replies. I also emailed whaler with the same question. They recommend putting a loop in the overflow line, draining the tank and sucking all sediment and water. Then to do a pressure test on the tank prior to replacement. Any thoughts on this?
rbonilla	posted 11-07-2001 03:03 PM ET (US) check all hoses and fittings...this should be done at least once every 5 years...
grandmufti	posted 11-08-2001 09:04 AM ET (US) One area you might want to take a look at is the gas vent.If it is defective or turned forward to the waves it will injest water into the vent tube.Had this happen on a boat and was hard to find as it only took water when it was rough and the spray hit the fitting.
rgfdds	posted 11-09-2001 05:46 AM ET (US) my dad has a 1979 20 or had water fuel problems it turned out to be the overflow hose easy fix for a nightmare of a problem just removed the cover and followed back to the tank found a cracked hose hope this can help you ron
ctoutrage	posted 03-18-2002 01:30 PM ET (US) Special thanks to dfmcintyre and jim bennett. Tank was ordered from FMT perfect match. The entire job was 4 hours including all new lines. Pictures and ideas from this site were a huge asset. Looking forward to a new season w/o constant water contamination. Thank you again-