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Author Topic:   Hitch Reciever Stuck
BillD posted 05-17-2002 02:36 PM ET (US)   Profile for BillD   Send Email to BillD  
This is not a Whaler specific question, but most of you trailer your boats so you might have some experiance with Hitch problems.

My Hitch Mount is stuck in the Hitch Reciever. It is a 2" reciever and Mount. Not having had a reason to tow for the past several years my reciever had gotten rusty, the cover had even rotted / rusted and had to be pried out. I removed it cleaned the reciever and oiled it and got the reciever in. Now it is stck and I can not get it out. Any Advice on how to get it out, and what to use on it to clean it and oil / lube it for the season.

Thanks.

whalerron posted 05-17-2002 03:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
If you were able to lock it in place with a hitch pin the easiest thing to do would be to tow the boat with it. The road vibration and trailer stresses will probably free it up nicely. Usually, those drawbars don't fit very tightly in the receivers so a little vibration should work things loose.
triblet posted 05-17-2002 05:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Chain around the ball, other end of the chain
around a big tree, roll forward at about 1 MPH.

Chuck

TightPenny posted 05-17-2002 08:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for TightPenny  Send Email to TightPenny     
Had that problem once with my 78 Blazer.

It was in there for years.

Used a large hammer, WD-40 and elbow grease. It came out, not easily, but it did come out.

Boston Marine posted 05-18-2002 10:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for Boston Marine    
Use heat around the outer part, then wd 40 .
The heat will cause expansion and will also wick in the wd 40. Wait 1 hour, tap with 2ld hammer and then just slide it out.
Eric posted 05-18-2002 04:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
WD 40 is an OK product for this, but the best I've found is wintergreen rubbing alcohol. The wintergreen is now synthetic, but will still work.
This was suggested by a friend that had used it on a WW2 era jeep when rebuilding the front end. The jeep was on Kodiak island, and the parts were really rusted. He soaked it for a day after pulling off all the nuts, hit it with a hammer and the tie rods dropped off.
I was pretty skeptical of the story, even though I have always found him to be straight with me. I had a bike that had been outdoors for an indetermined period, and the seat post was stuck in the frame. I had tried WD 40, PB blaster, CRC 5-56, and a couple of other products. Couldn't budge it. I poured on the wintergreen alcohol, and left it for a good soak, intending to check on it the next day. Curiosity got the best of me though, and after 30 minutes I had to yank on the seat. It came out so easily that I almost fell over backwards from the effort.
SSCH posted 05-18-2002 07:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for SSCH  Send Email to SSCH     
Try CLP Breakfree for anything you think WD 40 will do. I'd be amazed if you didn't switch brands. CLP is available at gun shops. (It's a fair amount more expensive.)
browning20ga posted 05-19-2002 05:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for browning20ga  Send Email to browning20ga     
Breakfree is GREAT but I usually use Liquid Wrench, but wintergreen alcohol? I've got to try that just to satisfy my curiosity. WD40 is good for getting gunned lables off but a poor choice for desolving rust IMHO.
Darrell
TightPenny posted 05-20-2002 03:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for TightPenny  Send Email to TightPenny     
Is that anything like spearmint schnapps???

:):):)

timmyb posted 05-20-2002 05:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for timmyb  Send Email to timmyb     
I'd go with the idea of wd 40,a chain around a big tree and pull.,then i would sand the bar lightly and reinstall into the receiver with white grease on it.
where2 posted 05-20-2002 10:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
Slide Hammer. Also good for pulling dents out of the fender.

Once it is out, get a wire toothbrush and start brushing the inside of the receiver to get all the excess rust out!

Tom W Clark posted 05-20-2002 11:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Driving around with a trailer in tow is a very good idea and the first thing I would do.

If it comes to penetrating oil then so be it. Use whatever you have first. I suspect most anything will do. It may not take the very best penetrating oil in the world to solve this simple problem.

There are differences in penetrating oils, that’s true, but I suspect WD-40 will be just fine.

If you really want the best try Aero-Kroil. It really is a better mouse trap.

“Wintergreen rubbing alcohol”? That’s such a bizarre suggestion I’m tempted to try it....

BillD posted 05-24-2002 07:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for BillD  Send Email to BillD     
Thanks for all the ideas. I ended up using the WD-40 (because I already had a can) a big hammer and a piece of wood stuck in side the hitch mount from the back. Allowing me to drive the hitch mount out. If I did not get it out I was going to try the wintergreen rubbing alchol just for fun.

Thanks again for the ideas.

Dr T posted 05-24-2002 12:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dr T  Send Email to Dr T     
Wintergreen--Now I seem to recall that this is the secret ingredient in Marvel Mystery Oil. It is truly great stuff. I used to put it in my Diesel fuel to keep the injectors clean. Out on the ranch, if something was rusted or badly gummed up, we just dowsed it with MMO and let it sit for a while. It was particularly useful for working on windmill motors. It should work on the trailer hitch just fine (even though I would be inclined to use Chuck Triblet's suggestion first).

Before you scoff at the wintergreen, I would note that citrus oil is used to remove wax from ski bases.

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