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Author Topic:   Installation of Pate fuel tank

63WHALER posted 05-29-2002 05:33 PM ET (US)
Ordered a new Pate tank,haven't received it yet.Going to install under the RPS seat,no tank there previously,so my questions are(1)thinking of drilling hole thru deck to tunnel for fuel line hose,is this acceptable?if so(2)how or what should be used to seal around fuel hose? Any pictures or advice on how to install would be greatly apppreciated.By the way this is a 24gal. tank if this matters.Also ordered hold down kit from Pate for this tank,any info on mounting tank would also help.Thanks in advance for the help & advice.
Kevin
kamml posted 05-29-2002 07:40 PM ET (US)
Kevin-I use a Pate 26 in my Montauk and I still use the hull tunnel with the primer bulb coming up out of the bilge aft. I use the black blocks screwed and bedded to the deck with screw eyes and bungies over the tank to hold it in place. The tank is postioned so that it extends far enough aft to remove the cap and fill it without removing it from its position under my RPS. You will be very happy with the Pate. Ken
ratherwhalering posted 05-29-2002 08:35 PM ET (US)
Kevin,
I'm currently working on an article for the reference section, and will e-mail you what I have, along with pictures of 4 different installations of the Pate 24/27 tanks.
beaufort posted 05-30-2002 07:25 AM ET (US)
Kevin,
I'd like the info as well. My 88 Montauk has a 12 gal under the RPS now.
Thanks!
cs
daverdla posted 05-30-2002 06:43 PM ET (US)
I just installed a used 27 gallon pate (purchased through the marketplace forum). It barely fits under the seat. Someone on this forum had previously suggested hinging the seat of the RPS. I followed his wise suggestion. It works great. I put stainless wing nuts on the two rear outer seat bolts so I can fasten/unfasten the seat without any tools. I also installed a new fuel line and located the bulb at the engine (another suggestion from this site). The bulb really does get firmer in the vertical position (up arrow).
I used a 1/4" NPT brass street elbow for attaching the quick disconnect to the tank. There wasn't enough clearance to install the fitting vertically at the tank with the seat in the down position. BTW, the hinges I bought had holes exactly matching the front bolt holes on the seat. I'm usually not that lucky.
Again, many thanks to whoever posted the hinged seat idea.
Dave
63WHALER posted 05-30-2002 08:22 PM ET (US)
Hello beaufort,
I will try to forward the pics. & info. ratherwhalering sent.This was most helpfull & exactly what I was after in my case.Hope it will help you also.
Kevin
ratherwhalering posted 05-31-2002 02:36 PM ET (US)
Dave-
Great point re: the tank elbow fitting...I forgot about that. Did your 27c fit inside the old tank matts or did you have to remove them?
ratherwhalering posted 05-31-2002 02:51 PM ET (US)
I just got the answer from Pate directly. They offer 4 tanks for the Montauk 17. The length and width are the same for all tanks. The height varies.
c27= 12 7/8"
c24= 11 3/4"
c21= 10 1/4"
c18= 9"
Presumably all these tanks will fit in the stock gas mats (with a slight modification to the inside lip of both mats to accomodate the bottom edge lip of the tank).
I believe the 27c is all but impossible to fill without either a hinged seat or removing the mats and mounting the tank slightly aft, due to its height and lack of clearance from the bottom of the seat.
I would LOVE a photo of your installation Dave, as well as the specifics on the parts you used to hinge the seat. It offers a simple and functional alternative to relocating the 27c.
whalerdude posted 05-31-2002 03:37 PM ET (US)
Does anyone have the floor wood diagram available or at the least have the drilling instructions for me?
I am getting ready to mount my c27 with mounting kit this weekend
ratherwhalering posted 05-31-2002 04:45 PM ET (US)
I have some tips. I'll e-mail them to you.
Rob.
stagalv posted 05-31-2002 05:24 PM ET (US)
My Pate 24 fits nicely under the seat and I didn't drill any holes in the deck at all.
When I fill the tank I need to slide it back a bit so I won't spill. Knowing that I needed to slide it I just use two straps which attach the tank to the legs of the RPS. This really works fine and I don't have to worry about water in the hull (as much) and there are no chocks to lift the tank over.
You do need to take care that the tank is not allowed to slide back and pinch the fuel line where it goes through the deck.
There are some pics of my tank on page 41 of the cetacea section. Rex
stagalv posted 05-31-2002 05:26 PM ET (US)
Oh, something else to mention. I use sections of cut drydeck to place my tank on. This prevents the tank from chaffing the non-skid and allows water to pass under it. Rex
ratherwhalering posted 05-31-2002 06:15 PM ET (US)
Rex, is that the stock bilge access hole? Mine is totally covered by the tank, but I have seen other models with partially exposed access holes and pate tanks, and yet more with the c24 in the pads with no access hole exposure.
BTW that is an INCREDIBLE whaler! Good job!
ratherwhalering posted 05-31-2002 06:28 PM ET (US)
An additional note for those following this thread, A few months back I posted a discussion on installing a Pate tank, and still get 3-4 e-mails a month asking for tips, so I sort of began a boilerplate answer I'd e-mail back. I have updated it, and was considering submitting it for possible publication in the reference section. I need some editors/critique if anyone has first hand experience or has other information to add. I'm leaving the office for a while, but can can e-mail a copy on monday to those interested. Just shoot me an e-mail and I'll reply with it attached. Thanks--Rob--
daverdla posted 05-31-2002 08:47 PM ET (US)
I'd be happy to send pic's of my installation but I won't be down the shore again until next weekend. My tank sits on top of the old tank pads. I just cut away the inboard ribs. BTW, I got my tank used and the previous owner had filed a notch to allow the fuel line to pass under the tank and into the hull. I also had to cut away a small section of the excutcheon plate that goes over the cutout in the hull.
Dave
stagalv posted 06-01-2002 10:30 AM ET (US)
Rob,
Yes that is the standard access hole to the bilge tunnel. Rex
Tim Ehlers posted 06-04-2002 09:41 PM ET (US)
Ratherwhaling or 63whaler, Could you pls send along the Pate installation stuff to me as well? I have a 72 Katama and will be installing a C24 under my RPS and was wondering what was the solution to the problem of having no hole to the transom tube where the tank will be placed. Originally the tank was placed in the console. Thx, Tim
daverdla posted 08-13-2012 08:39 PM ET (US)
Here's an update 10 years down the road. I just replaced the hinges. Not bad for galvanized hinges on a boat that sits in saltwater 4 months a year. I do keep them lubricated but time and salt air had taken it's toll. All of the stainless screws and t-nuts (in the seat) were fine. Too bad I can't find the hinges in stainless. I've found bigger ones and smaller ones but none the exact size I need. I imagine they must be out there. I'll report back in another 10 years.
Dave

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Author	Topic: Installation of Pate fuel tank
63WHALER	posted 05-29-2002 05:33 PM ET (US) Ordered a new Pate tank,haven't received it yet.Going to install under the RPS seat,no tank there previously,so my questions are(1)thinking of drilling hole thru deck to tunnel for fuel line hose,is this acceptable?if so(2)how or what should be used to seal around fuel hose? Any pictures or advice on how to install would be greatly apppreciated.By the way this is a 24gal. tank if this matters.Also ordered hold down kit from Pate for this tank,any info on mounting tank would also help.Thanks in advance for the help & advice. Kevin
kamml	posted 05-29-2002 07:40 PM ET (US) Kevin-I use a Pate 26 in my Montauk and I still use the hull tunnel with the primer bulb coming up out of the bilge aft. I use the black blocks screwed and bedded to the deck with screw eyes and bungies over the tank to hold it in place. The tank is postioned so that it extends far enough aft to remove the cap and fill it without removing it from its position under my RPS. You will be very happy with the Pate. Ken
ratherwhalering	posted 05-29-2002 08:35 PM ET (US) Kevin, I'm currently working on an article for the reference section, and will e-mail you what I have, along with pictures of 4 different installations of the Pate 24/27 tanks.
beaufort	posted 05-30-2002 07:25 AM ET (US) Kevin, I'd like the info as well. My 88 Montauk has a 12 gal under the RPS now. Thanks! cs
daverdla	posted 05-30-2002 06:43 PM ET (US) I just installed a used 27 gallon pate (purchased through the marketplace forum). It barely fits under the seat. Someone on this forum had previously suggested hinging the seat of the RPS. I followed his wise suggestion. It works great. I put stainless wing nuts on the two rear outer seat bolts so I can fasten/unfasten the seat without any tools. I also installed a new fuel line and located the bulb at the engine (another suggestion from this site). The bulb really does get firmer in the vertical position (up arrow). I used a 1/4" NPT brass street elbow for attaching the quick disconnect to the tank. There wasn't enough clearance to install the fitting vertically at the tank with the seat in the down position. BTW, the hinges I bought had holes exactly matching the front bolt holes on the seat. I'm usually not that lucky. Again, many thanks to whoever posted the hinged seat idea. Dave
63WHALER	posted 05-30-2002 08:22 PM ET (US) Hello beaufort, I will try to forward the pics. & info. ratherwhalering sent.This was most helpfull & exactly what I was after in my case.Hope it will help you also. Kevin
ratherwhalering	posted 05-31-2002 02:36 PM ET (US) Dave- Great point re: the tank elbow fitting...I forgot about that. Did your 27c fit inside the old tank matts or did you have to remove them?
ratherwhalering	posted 05-31-2002 02:51 PM ET (US) I just got the answer from Pate directly. They offer 4 tanks for the Montauk 17. The length and width are the same for all tanks. The height varies. c27= 12 7/8" c24= 11 3/4" c21= 10 1/4" c18= 9" Presumably all these tanks will fit in the stock gas mats (with a slight modification to the inside lip of both mats to accomodate the bottom edge lip of the tank). I believe the 27c is all but impossible to fill without either a hinged seat or removing the mats and mounting the tank slightly aft, due to its height and lack of clearance from the bottom of the seat. I would LOVE a photo of your installation Dave, as well as the specifics on the parts you used to hinge the seat. It offers a simple and functional alternative to relocating the 27c.
whalerdude	posted 05-31-2002 03:37 PM ET (US) Does anyone have the floor wood diagram available or at the least have the drilling instructions for me? I am getting ready to mount my c27 with mounting kit this weekend
ratherwhalering	posted 05-31-2002 04:45 PM ET (US) I have some tips. I'll e-mail them to you. Rob.
stagalv	posted 05-31-2002 05:24 PM ET (US) My Pate 24 fits nicely under the seat and I didn't drill any holes in the deck at all. When I fill the tank I need to slide it back a bit so I won't spill. Knowing that I needed to slide it I just use two straps which attach the tank to the legs of the RPS. This really works fine and I don't have to worry about water in the hull (as much) and there are no chocks to lift the tank over. You do need to take care that the tank is not allowed to slide back and pinch the fuel line where it goes through the deck. There are some pics of my tank on page 41 of the cetacea section. Rex
stagalv	posted 05-31-2002 05:26 PM ET (US) Oh, something else to mention. I use sections of cut drydeck to place my tank on. This prevents the tank from chaffing the non-skid and allows water to pass under it. Rex
ratherwhalering	posted 05-31-2002 06:15 PM ET (US) Rex, is that the stock bilge access hole? Mine is totally covered by the tank, but I have seen other models with partially exposed access holes and pate tanks, and yet more with the c24 in the pads with no access hole exposure. BTW that is an INCREDIBLE whaler! Good job!
ratherwhalering	posted 05-31-2002 06:28 PM ET (US) An additional note for those following this thread, A few months back I posted a discussion on installing a Pate tank, and still get 3-4 e-mails a month asking for tips, so I sort of began a boilerplate answer I'd e-mail back. I have updated it, and was considering submitting it for possible publication in the reference section. I need some editors/critique if anyone has first hand experience or has other information to add. I'm leaving the office for a while, but can can e-mail a copy on monday to those interested. Just shoot me an e-mail and I'll reply with it attached. Thanks--Rob--
daverdla	posted 05-31-2002 08:47 PM ET (US) I'd be happy to send pic's of my installation but I won't be down the shore again until next weekend. My tank sits on top of the old tank pads. I just cut away the inboard ribs. BTW, I got my tank used and the previous owner had filed a notch to allow the fuel line to pass under the tank and into the hull. I also had to cut away a small section of the excutcheon plate that goes over the cutout in the hull. Dave
stagalv	posted 06-01-2002 10:30 AM ET (US) Rob, Yes that is the standard access hole to the bilge tunnel. Rex
Tim Ehlers	posted 06-04-2002 09:41 PM ET (US) Ratherwhaling or 63whaler, Could you pls send along the Pate installation stuff to me as well? I have a 72 Katama and will be installing a C24 under my RPS and was wondering what was the solution to the problem of having no hole to the transom tube where the tank will be placed. Originally the tank was placed in the console. Thx, Tim
daverdla	posted 08-13-2012 08:39 PM ET (US) Here's an update 10 years down the road. I just replaced the hinges. Not bad for galvanized hinges on a boat that sits in saltwater 4 months a year. I do keep them lubricated but time and salt air had taken it's toll. All of the stainless screws and t-nuts (in the seat) were fine. Too bad I can't find the hinges in stainless. I've found bigger ones and smaller ones but none the exact size I need. I imagine they must be out there. I'll report back in another 10 years. Dave