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  How to remove teleflex from outboard?

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Author Topic:   How to remove teleflex from outboard?
John O posted 10-04-2002 12:25 PM ET (US)   Profile for John O  
I will be taking my 1988 88spl johnson off my 1988 Newport. I disconnected the control arm from the stearing shaft and am not sure how to slide the steel shaft throught the tube. I loosened the bolt on the teleflex cable. (right side), do i pull it through or do I need to disconnect something else. Do i have to do something at the steering wheel?
Bigshot posted 10-04-2002 12:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Just pull it through but you have to remove the ngine or loosen the bolts so it drops back. Without doing that there is not enough clearence to bet the steering out all the way.
acassidy posted 10-04-2002 01:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for acassidy  Send Email to acassidy     
You are on the right track. You have everything disconnected (if you mean that you unscrewed the big nut on the right side.) Pulling the steering cable is sometimes easier to do after you remove the motor from the transom first. It has to be pulled straight out and is hard to do sometimes when the motor is on the transom and there is no slack in the cable. On some boats this is the only way to remove the cable. And then when you reinstall the motor run the cable through first and then bolt the motor on. Hope this helps.
Archie
jimh posted 10-04-2002 01:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Teleflex is a great company. They have great products and excellent people supporting them.

They also "get" the web, and have a terrific website filled with information. They have downloads for PDF files of most of the installation instructions for their products.

Unlike some marine companies who think the web is the way to collect information FROM their customers and visitors (with silly cookies, session info, visit tracking, and other junk that impedes the visitor from finding anything useful), Teleflex understands that the web is a great way to send information TO their customers.

You should take advantage of their excellent website to help answer your questions. They are also very good about providing email support, as well.

http://www.teleflexmorse.com/Marine/home.asp?ID=2

Harles posted 10-04-2002 04:02 PM ET (US)     Profile for Harles  Send Email to Harles     
Here is how you do it.

Take a Hammer and a chisel or flat-head screw driver. On the teleflex cable that is hidden by the large bolt that bolts to the motor from the teleflex, you will see a lip. Take the chisel and hammer out the cable by that lip. Be careful not to ding up the lip too bad. It is a sturdy lip, just do not put full force into it with the hammer.

Another hint will be to turn your steering wheel all the way to the left so that you have less to chisel out.

I hope this helps again. If it does, that would be the second time today (re: Newport windshield)

John O posted 10-04-2002 10:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
OK now I understand. i thought that you had to remove the teleflex BEFORE removing the motor. I did pull at the cable and felt resistance. I did not want to break something
Jay A posted 10-05-2002 08:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jay A    
I was down at the dock today and saw your Whaler. I noticed you are also doing work on your center console.....nothing like having a "project boat"! Out in Ipswich Bay I saw two 15' Whalers with a platform bolted between them! It had a block & tackle set up probably for working on moorings. I wish I had my camera!
Bigshot posted 10-07-2002 11:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Good luck getting that out BEFORE removing the engine. The way the 15 & 17 are setup, the cable will bind against the transom, causing some nice gouges if do get it out.
prj posted 10-07-2002 11:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for prj  Send Email to prj     
Having forgotten the title and location of a previous thread, I will mention it here.

My Teleflex NFB steering cable broke this weekend, fortunately, only about 100 yards from the launch and at warm up speeds. Steering was initially stiff, then loose, very loose.

I subsequently field-replaced my entire helm steering unit and cable (many thanks to forum member MONTAUK in the Northwoods of WI for his verbal assistance).

In light of my findings, if additional slack were necessary to back out the steering arm from the outboard, it would seem that the disconnect at the helm would be easily completed to achieve this length.

Note: this repair completed on a 15' Striper, side console being the imperitive variable. I dont know how this applies to a center location.

John O posted 10-07-2002 11:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
Then the conclusion is that the motor must be removed BEFORE the cable from the tube. makes sense as I feel resistance when i try to pull through, this is why I stopped.
John O posted 10-07-2002 11:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for John O    
Must be someone elses Whaler in my slip. I pulled the boat 4 weeks ago as i cracked the block.

John

ratherwhalering posted 10-07-2002 01:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
It is possible to remove the entire assembly without unbolting the engine, at least on a Montauk. You guys are right, though, it is a SUPER tight fit. I wrap the steering nut in duct tape to prevent gouging, and finesse it out. Interestingly, my new(ish) teleflex NFB slides in and out, with no binding or space problems.
prj posted 10-07-2002 02:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for prj  Send Email to prj     
Clarification: In reading through, i couldnt figure out why the discussion of removing the outboard was even considered, as i had ample room to replace in totality my Teleflex system at the campsite.

Then i recalled that my outboard is mounted on a 4-5" setback jackplate. Ample clearance for the work.

Bigshot posted 10-07-2002 04:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Reason #43 as to why own a jackplate. My 15' I had to drop the engine(was mounted as low as possible) to get the new one in. The old came out...barely.

My Montauk with the Yammie up about an inch on the transom was impossible without scratching. I did it anyway because it was already gouged. It was VERY tight and scratched.

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