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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Removing Lower Unit or Gear case
|Author||Topic: Removing Lower Unit or Gear case|
posted 03-31-2003 11:40 AM ET (US)
I'm trying the check and replace the water pump on my Johnson 60HP but the lower unit an dgear case doesn't seem to want come off. It seems as if the drive shaft is holding the lower unit from coming off. I have the engine in reverse so that doesn't seem to be the problem. I'm pretty sure I have all of the screws removed. Is their a pin that needs to be released? or am I missing? something. thanks in advance for any suggestions.
posted 03-31-2003 12:45 PM ET (US)
Typically, there is a screw burried under the carburetors that needs to be loosened or removed, freeing the shift linkage. If you haven't removed that screw, it won't come off. It may drop down slightly when you slip it into reverse, but probably not more than an inch.
If you removed the 4 bolts on the lower front of the gearcase, and the one that goes through the rectangular zinc, you might have to remove the bolt holding the little skeg behind the prop. After that, its just the one on the shift linkage, and everything should be free.
posted 03-31-2003 01:01 PM ET (US)
Thanks where 2. I have a feeling it is nut under the carb that you are referring too although I'm not sure and haven't been able to find this supposed nut My service manual refers to a pin or nut. My model engine has the pin but when I released the pin nothing really happens. Besides this I can't see how releasing this pin will enable the drive shaft to come free. I've taken care of all the bolts on the lower unit including the ones in the back underneath and around the skeg. I don't won't give up and pay a mechanic. Mainly because I'm cheap and it deson't seem like it should be too difficult.
posted 03-31-2003 01:11 PM ET (US)
You most certainly have to disconnect the shift shaft. Not sure of that particular motor, but on other Johnson's I have owned, there was a small cover plate on the side of the exhaust hosing leg. Remove that cover and you had access to a coupler sleeve where the drive shaft could be disconnected. On other mercs I have owned, you disconnect it inside the cowl under the carbs. Perhaps a visit to the local bookstore is in order to browse their maintenance manuals.
posted 03-31-2003 01:14 PM ET (US)
I just went through this on my Evinrude 150..
As where2 describes, on my 150 you have to remove the trim tab skeg and remove the bolt underneath.
Also, there is a scew underneath the Carbs that holds the end of the "Shift" linkage on.. This is for the Shift linkage, not the Drive Shaft. This scew is not only hard to see, it is not very easy to get to either. I used a 1/4" drive set with a "Swivel Joint" and the size of the screw head was 3/8"..... It was easier to undo the screw and much harder to get it back together... It takes two people to get it back together... At least for me anyway...
posted 03-31-2003 04:35 PM ET (US)
I think you might me onto something. I seem recall seeing some bolts at or around the exhaust area of the engine which appeared to secure a cover plate of some sort. Perhaps I will give this area a closer a closer inspection in an effort to avoid paying a mechanic. '
It's funny and then again it's not so funny that I recently purchased the Johnson repair manual to my engine but getting all of the answers to questions at this site.
and Whalersman, Thanks
I've already removed the bolt underneath the Trim/Skeg so I know thats not the problem. It could be a bolt around the carbs but I doubt it because I can't see one. This could be a blessing after hearing about your ordeal. Hopefully the problem lies around the exhaust area.
posted 03-31-2003 05:28 PM ET (US)
I just looked at my 1985 70 HP Evinrude book at is shows a screw and retainer for the Shift Rod on the port side of the engine.
Look at your shifting mechanism on the Starboard side of your engine where your Shift and Throttle cables are connected. Follow the Shift lever, probably through bottom housing of the lower Carburetor, and see where it comes out on the port side... Here you should see a screw and retainer for the "Shift Rod" that goes all the way down to the Lower Unit Gear Case... This rod is one piece on my 70 HP and on my 150 HP Evinrudes....
You must take this screw and retainer loose before you can drop the Lower Unit on a 70 HP and a 150 HP...
I know you don't have to do this on my 8 HP Evinrude, but I would think your 60 HP should be like my 70 HP....
Good Luck and let us know.....
posted 04-01-2003 09:37 AM ET (US)
I was reading my repair manual last night and I think I have figured out the problem. The shift rod lever has a retaining pin which has to be removed, then the shift rod lever has to pushed toward the powerhead in order to disengage the shift rod.
When I originally read the instructions, I thought the shift lever needed to moved forward or reverse. After reading the insructions more carefully, I can see that the lever needs to me moved inward towards the center of where the engine is. I will let you know after I look at it this weekend. Thanks for the help.
posted 04-07-2003 03:22 PM ET (US)
Just wanted to give everyone an update on my engine project. I removed the lower unit this weekend. As it turns out, you need to pull the shift rod lever pin and then push the shift rod lever inward towards the power head. I was able to do by myself but it I was a little worried that the lower unit would fall out as I was disengaging the shift rod. Fortunatley this didn't happen. I used a hammer and a peice of wood the move the shift rod lever inward towards the power head.
My next question is how do get a rusted impeller to come off the drive shaft?
posted 04-07-2003 05:21 PM ET (US)
Still got that hammer ready?
First I would take off the impeller housing, it should slide off the impeller even if your impeller is rusted to the drive shaft key. From there soaking with wd-40 and taps around the impeller's top ridge ought to do it.
posted 08-25-2010 11:08 AM ET (US)
I am a new guy on the block with an old Evinrude outboard, E115TLCS, which has not been run for 13 to 15 years. I am rehabbing for a trip to Lake Powell - including replacing the steering system, tuning and replacing the water pump impeller. All is going very well, except when I came to removing the lower unit. I have the lower unit dropped about an inch and have found where the shift rod attaches to the shift mechanism under the cowling. I have removed the lower carb and still cannot find a method to unscrew the pin holding the rod. Even if I can get it out, I cannot see how to get it back in after the repair. I have considered removing the crank case to get to the pin, but that seems to be a lot of work to get to a pin to do a water pump job.
If anyone has ANY ideas, I would appreciate ANY assistance you might offer!!!!!!!!!!!!
posted 08-29-2010 10:12 PM ET (US)
Born Free - I went through this this summer.
It is one thing to get apart, but quite another to get back together. I will say that a pair of long, bent needle nose pliers are key.
I futzed with it for several hours, then gave up. I ended up needing the help of our local marina's mechanic to get it lined up. Took him all of 10 minutes, and he wouldn't charge me. Did accept a 12 of good beer, though.
It had a weak confidence stream, and would overheat, and thought I needed a new impeller. Turns out I had debris in the thermostat housing.
Whenver you change the impeller, also take off the thermostat housing (plastic housing at the top of the aft end of the engine) and clean out the thermostat with compressed air. Also, pull the tell-tale hose off and clean it out.
posted 08-29-2010 10:38 PM ET (US)
For install of the shift rod bolt, use a claw pickup tool to start the bolt.
posted 11-26-2012 01:05 PM ET (US)
First time working on an 1987 [Evinrude e150stlcur] I removed the thro[tt]le linkage and bolt under the carburetor and now need to know which bolts to remove on lower unit. I see the four [bolts] on top [of the lower unit,] but which ones on the bottom [of the lower unit] looking up [should be removed]? Removed the fin and looks like three more bolts.
Also [I am] replacing the gear oil in the lower unit. This particular motor has three screws to remove. [Two of the screws] look like vent, and [the third and] lower [screw] is fill and drain. Do I fill to the top hole on this motor? Or the middle hole next to the water intake for the pump?
posted 11-27-2012 06:30 PM ET (US)
[Changed topic. We do not collect and organize information on your new topic, and it has been deleted. Contact the moderator for details--jimh]
posted 11-27-2012 08:17 PM ET (US)
You can see an exploded view diagram of the gearcase on SHOP.EVINRUDE.COM. This will show you all the fasteners related to the gear case.
If you plan to work on your outboard engine, you should invest in the factory service manual for your outboard engine. The factory service manual will give you detailed procedures for servicing the engine.
I don't think you need to disconnect the throttle link to the carburetors to remove the gear case. Typically you need to disconnect the shift actuator shaft that runs down to the gear case.
posted 11-29-2012 07:21 PM ET (US)
Thanks JIMH for your help!
Will be buying a repair manual soon as a must have but want to go fishing now.
Trying to hook up shift rod but it won't lineup with actuator so that I can screw bolt back in. Does it have to be in a certain gear? Any idea on how to do this?
posted 11-30-2012 09:49 AM ET (US)
Helps to be in reverse.
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