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  Humminbird Fish Finder troublshooting - help needed.

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Author Topic:   Humminbird Fish Finder troublshooting - help needed.
Legobusier posted 07-20-2004 01:03 PM ET (US)   Profile for Legobusier   Send Email to Legobusier  
Hi all,

I have a semi-working fishfinder that I hoped the collective wisdom of the board might be able to troubleshoot.

It's a Humminbird Wide View - probably about 8 years old, so it's getting up there in years but works(worked) great. Humminbird's manual isn't worth the electronic paper it's not printed on as far as troubleshooting goes, and their tech support/troubleshooting told me my only option was to buy a new unit since they no longer support it and the general troubleshooting on their website does not pertain to this model. Gee thanks.

Anyhow, the unit was working just fine and one day decided to reset itself right in the middle of a trip. Now it will "boot" up and sit for about 4 or 5 seconds, then reset again and again and.....you get the idea.

I can run it in "Simulator" mode and it works fine. I've checked the voltage - good. I tried to "restore factory defaults" per Humminbird's suggestion, but there's no menu for that, so I'm stuck and don't know what to do.

I'm no electronics expert, but it sure seems to me if there was a problem with the transducer it would give strange readings or no readings, but not reset the unit.

Anyone have any relevant suggestions for me to try? Given the unit has no Restore Defaults choice, I was considering cracking the case and pulling the battery (assuming it has one) to force them to reset - after-all, I don't really have anything to lose at this point.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions and sorry for yet another Off Topic post.

Chris

where2 posted 07-20-2004 01:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
Buy replacement, spend an evening installing it this week, and go boating on Saturday... Remember to use the existing wires to pull a fish wire through the tunnel to so you can pull your new wire back to the console.

Trouble shoot it on the work bench in the garage on your next rainy Saturday once you have it removed. If you revive it, put it in the Marketplace. If it's dead, dispose of it properly...

Sage advice from a guy who will troubleshoot something for 6 hours when a new one cost $150, and a day boating is practically priceless...

Legobusier posted 07-20-2004 01:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
Good advice, and to be honest I probably will do that. However I won't let this thing keep me off the water. It will keep me from going out into waters I'm not familar with however.

Even if I do get it working, trusting it is another issue. The only thing worse than a broken piece of equipment is one that you can't trust.

Hoosier posted 07-20-2004 01:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Hoosier  Send Email to Hoosier     
Sounds like you have a power problem. Check the connectors and connections. The unit will run in simulator mode because it doesn't "fire" the transducer, when operating it drawns more current and if you have a marginal connection it'll reset. If that's not it, then it's the power supply, junk it (or give it to the kids to play with in simulator mode) since it's no longer supported by Humminbird..
bamatenn posted 07-20-2004 01:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for bamatenn  Send Email to bamatenn     
When I bought my '86 Montauk it came with a Hummingbird LCR 2000 which did not work. I was fortunate to find the recorder only on e-bay for $25. Installed it and it works fine. I will be replacing it when the prices of the multi-function units drop.

Ken

15ftlover posted 07-20-2004 03:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for 15ftlover  Send Email to 15ftlover     
If it has the quick disconnnect mount try cleaning all pin connectors carefully (may need to disassemble mount. A dremel with a Q-tip cut in half and inserted into the dremel yoke works pretty good on low speed.
Hen
Legobusier posted 07-20-2004 09:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
Well, here's an update guys. I thought for sure Hoosier was correct as his theory makes sense so I started there.

I chopped off the old crimp connections (they were clean and soldered - looked good). Then I stripped back to good clean wire and went directly to the battery. Checked voltage @ quick disconnect and it's good. Cleaned all the contacts with sandpaper and dremel, then gave them a good dose of corrosion block.

Hooked it up and it did exactly the same thing.

Then I disconnected the Transducer and the problem goes away. So, I think the problem must be with the Transducer - I suspect it's bad. Do you guys think that could be the problem? The unit keeps restarting trying to hook up with the transducer?

Thanks for the help so far.
Chris

Chuck Tribolet posted 07-20-2004 10:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Maybe transducer wiring. I can see how a short in the
transdurecer wiring might pull the voltage down and reset
the box. Pull the transducer wiring out (pull a fish line
in) and inspect it.

Or even easier, have you got a buddy with a Humminbird that
uses the same mount. Drop your display head on his boat and
see. This trick won't work if your buddy has the 3D model
as it uses a different transducer cord.

Is there a Diagnostic option at power up? Try that.

New transducers aren't cheap, but they are less than a new
FF.


Chuck

Legobusier posted 07-21-2004 08:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
Nobody I know has a similar unit Chuck. Diagonsitic is inconclusive. It passes two of the four tests, but fails on Speed and Temp. I don't have a Speed and/or Temp Transducer, so that's not surprising. The thing is after that is the "summary" says "FAIL", but that's all it says, and the book is of no help. It doesn't tell WHAT failed or why. I'm suspecting the FAIL is due to the unit not passing ALL of the diagnostics.

I think I will have to pull the transducer and check the wiring. Here's a stupid question, is the transducer wiring one piece all the way from the transducer to the head or is there a in-line connection somewhere? The reason I ask is the hole in my transom is only barely big enough for the wire to go through. The connection at the head is too big to go through and the transducer is (obviously) too big to fit through the hole.

This thread might evolve to what to do next, replace the transducer @ $50, or scrap the whole unit and replace it. I'm thinking I'll probably end up replacing it.

What's a good inexpensive model to look at. I'd like to keep it under $150 if possible. My dad swears by Eagle, and I know it shouldn't matter, but DAMN they're ugly :). (Sorry but I'm a designer, remember)

Thanks,
Chris

bkovak posted 07-21-2004 01:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for bkovak  Send Email to bkovak     
Chris, I recently picked up a Humminbird Piranha Max 15. It is a small unit that doesn't take up a lot of room on the console but has a nice screen, wide 60 degree dual beam sonar cone and high resolution. It includes temp and transducer and was only $89 at Boater's World. Dick's Sporting Goods has it as well. Nice unit for under $100. Brian
Chuck Tribolet posted 07-21-2004 07:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
The transducer wiring is one piece. If somebody spliced it,
it's even money or better that's where the problem is. But
you don't need to pull it through the transom to inspect it.
Just pull it through the tunnel, and then you can see all of
it.


Chuck

SpeedBump posted 07-21-2004 08:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for SpeedBump  Send Email to SpeedBump     
You'll probably pay @ $60 for a new transducer. a new comparable HB unit can be had on sale for @ 150 or so with sending units. Hummingbird is a decent brand as they typically include speed /temp and 2 or 3D transducers with the FF unit. Most other brands you have to purchase this stuff at additional cost.

I upgraded last year to a HB Matrix 25 for my Nauset from an older HB 20 after the older unit began to have connectivity problems with the cables to the unit's base, I had already replaced a transducer that was lost during a long rough high speed ride while mounted on my 13, actually this was my second replacement transducer. I had also replaced the power supply cord. when You add the cost of replacing these items you could practically buy a new unit.

I have been very pleased with the HB Matrix system it is a much more robust system. It is a good size for the consol, it came with a 2-year warranty and flat labor charge after the warranty expiration which was better than the more expensive units. Better waterproof design than the older units. It integrated very well with my Garmin GPS 76S and has really nice features that make it very easy to use over my GPS when one is connected. I think I paid @ $190 for the Matrix 25 and it was worth every penny.

Yes-I looked at much more expensive units but I thought on a bumpy and wet whaler a throw away unit after 4-5 years was better than a very expensive unit that would crap out after 4-5 years because it was on a bumpy and wet whaler..
I have been pleasantly surprised so far.

specktrout posted 07-21-2004 09:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for specktrout  Send Email to specktrout     
I also had some problems with the humminbird units. Mine would cut out when the boat was driven at higher RPM. While it is normal for an older running engine to produce up to 15 volts, this is too much for the newer humminbird units. I paid about 10-15 dollars for one of the voltage regulators back when they were selling them on sale and it solved all my problems.
jimh posted 07-21-2004 09:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[This thread has been edited to remove vulgar content.]
jimh posted 07-21-2004 09:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
If the wiring passes through a hole whose diameter is too small to admit the connector, then there must be a splice. Locate the splice. This will probably be the source of the problem.
Legobusier posted 07-21-2004 10:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
Thanks for the replies guys...

Vulgar content, huh...I missed that.

There's no question the hole is smaller than both the transponder and the plug, so there must be a splice. I'll pull it this weekend and check it out.

Thanks again. You guys rule.
Chris

Legobusier posted 07-22-2004 09:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
Guys.

Found the problem. Sure enough as Chuck and Jim predicted there is a splice and it's the source of the problem. A couple of the wires had become frayed a bit and were shorting each other. I pulled them apart and fired up the unit and all is good again.

Now I have to cut out the repair and fix it. Should I solder the connections? I was thinking of soldering then using the marine grade heat shrink to seal it up. Comments?

The good news is I didn't even have to pull the cable. The splice is only about 18" from the transom. It was covered up when I bought the boat with a cable wrap, so I never saw it.

Thanks again all - that's one less thing to replace.

Chris

jimh posted 07-23-2004 07:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Irradiated PVC tubing ("shrink tube") is a good method of insulating and sealing the individual wire connections. Also cover the whole splice with shrink tubing. You can probably purchase the shrink tubing at Radio Shack, and you can use your wife's hair dryer to shrink it.

I would solder the wires directly to each other and not use a butt-splice connector.

Hoosier posted 07-23-2004 05:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for Hoosier  Send Email to Hoosier     
Do not use shrink fit without first coating the soldered slice with "liquid electical tape" (if you can't find that use PVC cement). Heat shrink is not watertight and you'll end up with the same problem as soon as the tunnel floods. A better choice for wet locatons is self vulcanizing rubber tape. Sorry my first idea was wrong, oh well.....
Phil Tyson posted 07-23-2004 06:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Phil Tyson  Send Email to Phil Tyson     
How about "liquid tape"? A coat or two will seal it.
Legobusier posted 07-23-2004 09:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
Liquid tape....never heard of it. Where can I buy such a thing? I've already fixed the splice, resoldered it and each wire (3) is shrink wrapped, but I can still go over the exterior with liquid tape for a watertight seal. The splice is not in the tunnel, so should stay somewhat dry, so that's good. It's not the same as the liquid rope whipping is it?

Hoosier, no need to apoligize - in fact your idea (while not 100% correct) did help me to isolate the prolem to the transduer so it really was most helpful.

Thanks again guys for the tips.

Chris

Phil Tyson posted 07-24-2004 12:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for Phil Tyson  Send Email to Phil Tyson     
Here is a description:

http://iboats.com/mall/index.cgi?prod_id=21125¤t_category=liquid%20tape&cart_id=412593719

I have seen it at Boaters World, Hamilton Marine, West Marine. It comes in 3 different colors, costs like $5.00 and goes far.

I love how it is easier than heat shrink.

Legobusier posted 07-24-2004 12:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
Cool. I'll pick some up. Thanks.

Chris

Peter posted 07-24-2004 08:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
First thing to do is to visually inspect all the connections supplying the power to the unit are in good shape, i.e., no corrosion. Trace the power source for the FF all the way back to the battery.

I had a Humminbird that would just not turn on despite the digital multi-meter showing 12 volts at the Humminbird connector. It had me stumped for a day until I traced the power supply all the way back to the battery and found that an in-line fuse close to the battery for a line powering the bus to which the Hummingbird was connected was badly corroded on its inside and not detectable just by looking at it. The reason the Humminbird didn't fire up was that as soon as any load was put on the line, the 12 volts all but disappeared. Checking the voltage with the multi-meter wouldn't show that situation. Changed out the fuse holder and put in a new fuse and it worked just like new.

Chuck Tribolet posted 07-25-2004 09:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
I would solder it. The cable probably has a foil shield that
you won't be able to solder. That will take some creativity.
Then Ancor hot-melt glue lined heat shrink from your local
chandlery. DO NOT USE THE RADIO SHACK STUFF ON A BOAT. Put
on over the cable before you start soldering.

And probably wrap with good electrical tape for good measure.


Chuck

Legobusier posted 07-26-2004 04:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Legobusier  Send Email to Legobusier     
It's all done.

By the way....Liquid Electrical tape and Rope Whipping have GOT to be the same stuff. I've got two bottles side-by-side and they're identical. Just FYI if anyone cares, save the money and only buy one.

Thanks for all the help guys.
Chris

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