posted 08-17-2004 07:26 PM ET (US)     

I don't believe there is a problem with the VRO (probably wishful thinking on my part), but I seemed to get the usual slight blue smoke output during the period of time (three minutes or so) that the engine was running when the alarm was going off. I plan to go thru the OMC troubleshooting procedure tomorrow. The manual is somewhat vague on some VRO problems, so I thought I'd throw it out here.<>Does the "no oil" sensor detect a lack of oil at the engine itself, or is it located at the VRO tank proper (center console)? I would assume that either way, the sensor would detect a "no oil" situation as a result of a clogged line.

Should the alarm normally sound while going thru the start procedure (key in ignition while engine is cranking, prior to combustion)? This one rarely does.

Is there a filter in the tank on the oil line?

posted 08-18-2004 12:00 AM ET (US)            

Does your tank have a wire attached to it??

My 1985 OMC service manual describes the tank as having a 10' oil hose and 12' of electrical wiring for the low oil level warning. Low oil warning (beeping) sounds when the level drops to 1/4 tank.

posted 08-18-2004 07:14 AM ET (US)            

For VRO info and troubleshooting click on:

posted 08-18-2004 08:01 AM ET (US)            

A continuous alarm means either an overheat condition or a fuel restriction.

NO oil would be a continuous beeping 1/2 second on - 1/2 second off. Low oil would be a beep every 20 seconds.

The sensor for low oil is in the tank. The sensor for NO oil is at the fuel/oil pump. Temp sensors are on top of the powerhead, and fuel restriction sensor is a vacuum gauge near the fuel pump.

If you let your engine cool down and the alarm goes off, then you are having a cooling problem. If the alarm still goes off when the engine is cool, then you have a fuel restriction.

posted 08-20-2004 03:55 PM ET (US)            

It is usually the mechanics lack of knowledge speaking when they say it is the fault of the VRO system or the operator uses cheap, or non-recommended oil in the system.

Here are several threads on how well the VRO system works.

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/000252.html

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/000814.html

posted 08-20-2004 04:06 PM ET (US)            

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/000814.html

Newt has given you the correct info on the alarm sounds. The alarms should not sound when starting the 1986 model. I believe the sounds when starting, started in 1996 with the introduction of the "System Check" system.

posted 08-20-2004 08:26 PM ET (US)            

I have read that article and hope it's all true. No pre-mix for my big Johnson.

posted 08-21-2004 02:05 PM ET (US)            

Your 1996 outboard should have the System Check gauge and 4 warning lites for different malfunction warnings. The horn will sound for 10 seconds and the appropriate lite should remain on until the problem is corrected.

If you have a 1995 or earlier motor that uses the 4 wire "VRO" pump, you can buy a retrofit kit and gauge for your outboard. That way you will have a bright red LED illuminating what the malfunction is.

The four indicator lites are for:

posted 08-21-2004 03:20 PM ET (US)            

The "System Check" system did not start until 1996 for Johnson.

posted 08-22-2004 01:46 PM ET (US)            

On your oil tank, if the electronics in the pickup assembly get flakey, you can disconnect the "zip cord" terminals at the motor, and then visually check your oil level often.

If you do install the SystemCheck warning kit, you will get a new oil pickup, and there are NO electronics in it, just a switch that closes when the oil gets low.

posted 08-22-2004 02:43 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for the info. I would be very interested in converting my 1985 Evinrude 150hp but it looks like I only have 3 wires going to the VRO pump.

1. Purple (Power)
2. Tan (probably Ground ?)
3. Gray (Pulse)

I assume I have the older style VRO pump? Bummer...
I know replacing the VRO pump to the VRO2 pump would be costly.

Where does the 4th wire come from and what is it for?
I would assume that it would be for "EngineTemp" or "Check Engine" light?
Or Both?

The "Low Oil" and "No Oil" which is already built in the buzzer alarm sounds, should also activate the corresponding lights if hooked up properly? This is also an assumption.

Any further info would be very helpful.

posted 08-22-2004 04:04 PM ET (US)            

You will have to buy ($270) a new VRO to make the system work. It wouldn't be a bad idea anyway, since you have a very old pump at the moment with a questionable warning system on it.

posted 08-22-2004 04:36 PM ET (US)            

I already have the purple wire.
Am I missing something else?

I have 3 wires coming from a harness that plugs into the VRO pump.
I have indicated the colors in my above post.

Because I already have the purple wire (12v), what color wire am I missing that the newer style has?

And, what does the wire do that I am missing?

I will probably have time to visit my Bombardier dealer on Wednesday and ask him a few questions also.
In the meantime I sure would like all the info you can give me as it sounds like you have been there and done that.

posted 08-22-2004 04:46 PM ET (US)            

I replaced my Oil Tank last year with a brand new one. (Non-System Check)

I tested both the Low Oil buzzer and the No Oil buzzer when I installed it so I know the buzzer alarms are working.

I also tested both Thermostat (Overheat) buzzers at that time too so I know these buzzers both work. (actually same buzzer)

posted 08-22-2004 07:19 PM ET (US)            

Upon very close inspection, here is what I found.

There are 4 wires coming out of the bottom of the VRO pump.
1. Purple
2. Black
3. Tan
4. Gray

These 4 wires then go into a plastic tube (wrap or cover) and at the other end of the tube only 3 wires come out and are connected to a rubber plug that plugs into it's respective plug-in.

I have no idea where the Black wire connects to so I assume that the Black wire is connected to one of the other 3 wires inside the tube? Maybe not? Maybe it is not connected to anything and ends inside the tube? I can't pull the tube enough one way or the other to see what the Black wire is doing.

If you can tell me what the Black wire is connected to, this will help. Or, what it is supposed to be connected to?
Otherwise, I will ask the dealer on Wednesday as I plan to purchase everything I need to add this upgrade to my motor now that I know I have the VRO2 system.

For the Record, I have a 1985 Evinrude 150hp which apparently came original with the VRO2 system. Does anyone know for sure when the VRO2 system started? This might help other people in the future.

posted 08-23-2004 07:31 AM ET (US)            

Joe, your motor must have been jury rigged or played with by someone who wasn't familiar or trained in the wiring system. Your 4 wire VRO harness should connect to a round rubber 4 wire connector, called an Amphenol connector. From there, the tan, black, and gray wires go to the main wiring harness, and the purple wire should be attached to the terminal board. If yours is not this way, find a QUALIFIFED person to get it right for you.

here is your wiring code:
purple- 12V from key switch
black- ground
gray- tach signal
tan- alarm wire, goes to warning horn

posted 08-23-2004 12:55 PM ET (US)            

I NEED NEW GLASSES.............

You are correct. The Black wire does go into the Rubber connector. (Amphenol connector).

The Black wire was very hard to see as it was in and behind the other wires.
I traced all 4 wires and they go where they are supposed to go.

My VRO pump has been updated somewhere down the line as I have a 1985 motor that has the 4 wire VRO2 pump and wiring system.

posted 08-23-2004 01:25 PM ET (US)            

I will try this one more time. Forget the VRO for a moment. If your '86 is similar to my '90, then a continuous alarm indicates either:

1. Temperature problem.
2. Fuel restriction.

Does the alarm sound when the engine is cold? Does it sound only at wide open throttle. Have you checked your fuel filter(s)?. Was the fuel primer bulb soft when the alarm went off?

Tell us more about what makes the alarm go off, and what you have tried so far in terms of diagnostics. The Johnson/Evenrude SERVICE manual has plenty of info on diagnosing warning alarms.

posted 08-23-2004 04:01 PM ET (US)            

The only thing I can think of pertaining to the continuous sound of the buzzer when the key is just turned on is that one of the Thermostat overheat sensors is making grounding out and sounding the buzzer.

One way to check this is to disconnect both (or one at a time) Thermostat overheat sensors. The sensors have tan wires coming out of them with a "Knife" terminal covered with a rubber boot. Turn your key on and if the buzzer is sounding, dissconnect one of these at a time and see if the buzzing goes away.

posted 08-23-2004 04:22 PM ET (US)            

I can appreciate your frustration...the sound of that warning horn is not pleasant. If you email me with a fax #, I will photocopy and send you the applicable troubleshooting steps for the horn and the sensors from my service manual. At least that way, you can systematically work your way through the problem.

posted 08-23-2004 05:05 PM ET (US)            

But, I know this can be frustrating for you as newt mentions.

We seem to have eliminated the Overheat sensors when you disconnected them and you still got the warning buzzer.

I think we are getting a little closer to the problem. As newt again mentions, fuel sensor. Locate the fuel restriction sensor and disconnect this TAN wire and see if the buzzing goes away.

posted 08-23-2004 11:10 PM ET (US)            

--lower left corner, tan wire and black/white wire connect to gizmo; case of gizmo is grounded. (Oil Tank Level Sensor?)

--center middle, tan wire connects to gizmo under starter solenoid; black wire from gizmo to ground. (Fuel Vacuum Sensor?)

--left middle, tan wire connects to something just below main connector plug; does something plug in here? (No guess!)

I have deduced that the other unidentified gizmo is probably:

--lower right; engine cylinder head temperature sensor; tan wire connects to it; case is grounded. (But aren't there two of these? One for each cylinder head?)

posted 08-24-2004 08:08 AM ET (US)            

So I'm not the only one scratching his head tryng to interpret that wiring diagram! At least my engine (150 hp, 9 amp charging circuit) is a little simpler. There are only tan wires - no black and whites - to each of the sensors. Your unidentified gizmo must be the NO OIL sensor built into the VRO pump.

The diagram for my engine shows two temp sensors wired in parallel. Each sensor has a ground symbol attached but no additional wires (blk/wht). I wonder if the additional wires you see are related to the SLOW feature?

Rummrunner,

posted 08-26-2004 08:40 AM ET (US)            

Sorry to have led you on a wild goose chase with the fuel restriction sensor. It sounds like either the temp sensor triggered, or maybe you have an intermittant short circuit in the tan wire that made contact with a ground.

posted 04-21-2006 11:24 AM ET (US)            

Question,

I'm not trying to re-open the vro connect / disconnect issue. I've decided to keep my vro. Is there a way to retrofit the vro oil tank intake with a larger filter screen? The existring one I have has a small cone shaped screen the snaps into the end of the pick up line. It plugged yesterday with some sort of "green snot" the virtually shut off the oil supply, sounded that no / low oil alarm and nearly caused my heart to stop. I've heard that there is a much larger filter for the oil intake line but can't seem to verify. Anyone out there who can point me in the right direction?

Thx