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Author Topic:   225 Evinrude Ficht 2000
aquaman posted 08-31-2004 09:34 PM ET (US)   Profile for aquaman   Send Email to aquaman  
What might cause the warning horn to sound and check engine light to illuminate on a 2000 Evinrude 225 Ficht after warm-up and a slow run up above idle?

I have changed and gapped the plugs to 0.30. From the advice of the dealer I have also changed the themostats which I was pretty sure wasn't the problem. Warning horn still sounds for a minute then goes off but the light continues. I can shut down the engine and the light will go out when restarted until the run up above idle. The engine does not appear to be overheating, it appears to be getting oil and generaly runs very well.



BarryGreen posted 09-01-2004 07:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for BarryGreen  Send Email to BarryGreen     
John - Pick up the service manual for the engine (great thing to have in any event), and read the section on "service codes". You can easily read out the codes from the gauge lights without involving the dealer, and they will generally lead you to the exact problem. It's a great system on the Fichts, and much more effective than trial and error.
Peter posted 09-01-2004 08:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
I assume that the "check engine" light is coming on and staying on. There are probably a couple of dozen things that can set off the light and alarm. Barry's advice is right on the money. You need to get a service manual that tells you what each of the numeric fault codes mean and then read the codes. They can be read right through the system check gauge by manipulating the throttle position sensor. It could be something as simple as water in fuel or something more complicated but you need to read the codes that are setting off the alarm. Do not operate the motor without doing that.
jimh posted 09-01-2004 08:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Isn't that engine one of the OMC models to which you can connect an inexpensive Palm handheld and read diagnostic information?

I really love the notion that OMC/Bombardier make it possible for the owner to access their engine diagnostics without having to invest in a $1,000 proprietary code-reader tool.

Sal DiMercurio posted 09-01-2004 10:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
My bet is he hasen't changed the fuel filter under the engine cover since he got the engine.
If there's 1/4 of an inch of water in the bottom of it, the sensor will set off the alarm.
Jim, your right, a palm pilot works wonderful but it has to be fed the info off a floppy from a PC in order for it to tell you whats wrong.
Thats a nice engine.
I've been informed to gap those plugs at .028 because the gap goes to .045 real quick, like 50 hours of running.
aquaman posted 09-01-2004 06:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for aquaman  Send Email to aquaman     

I think your right, I doubt my friend has changed the since new, this was the first spark plug change. When I looked at the filter last night I thought about that being the problem. We will get the manual and change the filter.

Thanks for everyone's help...



Peter posted 09-01-2004 08:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
You need not even connect an inexpensive PDA to can read diagnostic information. I bet Sal's right on the fuel filter. The only time my check engine light went off this season was when the water in fuel sensor set it off.

A large sparkplug gap will not set off the check engine light. The sparkplug electrodes erode over time and seem to go from a gap of about 0.030 to a gap of about 0.050 by about the 60 hour mark. However, the engine is robust enough that it will still run pretty well even with hardly any center electrode left.

LHG posted 09-01-2004 08:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for LHG    
Do all DFI engines eat spark plugs, or just the Fichts?

My EFI Merc plugs don't even require a gap, just a center electrode. And they easily go 300 hours.

jimh posted 09-01-2004 08:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I believe the OMC manual recommends a change to the no-gap style plugs (similar to the Mercury engines) if you plan on "sustained high-speed operation."
Sal DiMercurio posted 09-01-2004 09:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Even if it is the fuel filter, the code has to be removed because it's a hard code.
Jim, thats news to me on the no gap plugs, maybe "Seahorse" can elaborate.
aquaman posted 09-02-2004 12:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for aquaman  Send Email to aquaman     

How do you turn off the hard code light function once the poblem has been found?


Peter posted 09-02-2004 05:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
Jim, as far as I know, there is only one plug approved for use in my Ficht engines. It is not a surface gap style plug.

Larry, to the extent that electrode wear is "eating" plugs, my recollection is that Mercury Optimaxes also "ate" plugs. Both the Mercury Optimax and the Evinrude Ficht require special spark plugs. Both run in a statified charge mode at low speeds and a homogenious charge mode at high speeds. It is my understanding that the Yamaha HPDI does not run in these two modes and I don't believe that it requires special plugs. So I suspect that the plug erosion has something to do with the different modes of operation and how they have the fuel spray directed relative to the electrode.

The spark plugs will easily last 100 to 125 hours which is more than a season so it is not a big deal since I always change plugs before every season.

Aquaman, you need to get a service manual. In the service manual it will explain a procedure that requires you to manipulate the throttle position sensor between the low (idle) and high (WOT) settings a certain way several times to clear codes.

seahorse posted 09-02-2004 07:08 AM ET (US)     Profile for seahorse  Send Email to seahorse     
The only plug for a 225 FICHT of any year is the Champion QC12PEP gapped .o28-.030".

A check engine lite can be activated by any number of problems from water in the fuel filter or even a misreading barometric pressure sensor. Most items are fairly minor such as a disconnected or out of spec sensor. You will need the diagnostic software to find out, a dealer can do this very quickly.

Sal DiMercurio posted 09-02-2004 11:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Thanks Seahorse.
Sure glad to see you on this site.
JohnNorthEast posted 09-03-2004 04:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnNorthEast  Send Email to JohnNorthEast     
I had this exact same problem with the (Evenrude FITCH 225 year 2000) same motor. However, it only occured with one battery and not the other. Yes, a low battery ( could not hold a charge) battery can set off the check engine warning horn and when the horn stops the the check engine light will not go off. My radio also informed my of a low battery.

dan777 posted 10-09-2005 07:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for dan777  Send Email to dan777     
have a ficht ram 225hp 00 runs perfect at high and low idle then after about 30-45 minutes the check engine light + buzzer goes on turn the engine off starts right back up runs for another 10 mintues happens again motor uses fuel and oil all filters replaced supposedly has all the updates going to check on that tomarrow any ideas please suggest???
Peter posted 10-09-2005 09:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
You need to read the code or codes that are setting off the check engine light. One of the more common codes is water in fuel.
an86carrera posted 10-10-2005 09:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for an86carrera  Send Email to an86carrera     
These engines seem to be battery hogs. I now run two 1000 amp/hour batteries. You need to check the codes as many people have said here.

If it is a low voltage problem get it fixed right away because eventually it will cause a complete EMM failure. The software to read the codes and do many other tests can be had for about 135.00 with the cable. is another very good resouce for these motors. Great guys and great service. No connection just a happy customer.

Good luck getting thru this they are great motors once you understand them. Just put 260 miles last weekend on my 2000 200hp with 95 gals of fuel. About 2.75 miles/gallon mixed cruising on a 2600 lbs dry weight 22 Proline Center Console.

bigcatchdaniel posted 05-29-2006 09:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for bigcatchdaniel  Send Email to bigcatchdaniel     
have the same problem motor runs perfect for about 30 minutes then the buzzer check engine light comes on evrything seems to be working fine sparkplugs are new filter is clean however the water cooled emm is not pushing out a lost of water if someone has the psi specs let me know
finfish04 posted 05-29-2006 11:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for finfish04  Send Email to finfish04     
Hi , I Have a '97 150 Ficht Johnson .I purchased a program with cable connecter to install on my laptop (must operate with windows 95 or 98) and I purchased a OMC repair manual for my engine, all these purchases can be made thru ebay or thru more research on your part. This set up can not only do diagnostics but can preform vital component (such as in oil pump,fuel pump,fuel injectors and cylinder operation) tests and removal of all error codes and sensor monitoring . All this takes only minutes with very little familiarity. Running any of these engines with the thought of what is wrong may be harmful to the engine and a possible tow by Sea-tow in the making.Hope this has been helpful,Good Luck
RGC posted 06-18-2006 01:55 AM ET (US)     Profile for RGC  Send Email to RGC     
For what it worth, I run twin 2003 250's and often have "check engine" alerts. I use a PC based program to check the service codes and 99% of the time it is to overheating of the EMM due to debris in the water jacket, water lines, or on the intake plates. Often just stopping the engine and cleaning the filter on the lower unit will solve the problem. Occasionally debris has managed to plug the EMM hoses and more likely the exit of the water line from the other end of the gas vapor condensor or in the condensor itself. You should be able to disconnect the hose from the top of the EMM and blow easily through the EMM. If not, you have a blockage and no amount of tinkering will solve the check engine light problem until you clear it as the sensor alerts at 86 + or-degrees which is often not very high. The only way I have been able to clear the blockage is to blow air from a compressor through the line at a low PSI....and yes, I know, this can have the adverse consequence of making the problem worse....but then you are going to have to tear down the engine anyway to clear it.
Sal DiMercurio posted 06-18-2006 11:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
My EMM cooling line got plugged up solid I drilled it out with a long shaft 1/4" drill.
It was packed solid for about 3" & I could only run the cordless drill a few turns before it really got hard to cut so I only ran the drill until it started to bog down, than reversed it & cleaned off the crap that was stuck in the drill, than did the same thing over & over for about 1/2 hour until it was cleared.
There was absolutly no water flowing through the EMM cooling system when the engine just plain shut down like it blew the main fuse.
None of the guages even worked until it cooled down.
Had the check engine light come on right after I changed plugs & looked up the code & it said,...the number 4 coil wire is loose,....sue enough, it was barely making contact if any at all,...shoved it back on & it was fine.
That a hell of a system.
My engine is 6 years old with approx 1600 hours on her & I absolutly love this engine.
I'm about 50 hp over recommended maximum for that hull & at cruise speed (3000 to 3500-RPM) she delivers over 5-MPG.
Over 4000-RPM, like 4200 to 4400, she drops down to 3-MPG but the sweet spot is definitly 4200-RPM, but I hardly ever run her that hard, mostly 3200 - 3400-RPM which allows me to travel between 31 and 34-MPH with a 21p prop.
bigcatchdaniel posted 11-13-2006 08:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for bigcatchdaniel  Send Email to bigcatchdaniel     
Hi. [I] have a slight problem with my [2000?] 225 Ficht RAM. [I] only get 5,400-RPM out of it. To get good cruising speed [I] need 4,500-RPM. Is it okay to run it at 4,500-RPM? [I] have never had one of these motors. Should [I] be getting more? [I]t also has a miss at 2,500-RPM, but smooths out. Please advise.
LIP posted 12-01-2006 08:25 AM ET (US)     Profile for LIP    
I have a pair of 2003 250 FICHT's and seem to have the same EMM overheating problem. Complete shutdown without any alarm lights and then 3 alarm lights and no cranking. After 5 minutes it will start. Seems to only happen at high loading.

The boat is on a mooring and I would like to go out prepared to check and fix the water cooling problem if that turns out to be the problem.

Does anyone know the cooling water hose I.D., seem to remember it might be 3/8". Would want to replace them.

The hoses are centered on oppisite sides of my EMM so it wouldn't seem to be a straight thru passage that could be drilled out. Is there a cover on the cooling water passage that can be removed for cleaning ?

The engines are used in salt water and have 700 hours. They are only flushed with fresh water when hauled out after 8 months.

Any other ideas would be appreciated as I fish 30 miles offshore and this problem is getting scarry.

Peter posted 12-01-2006 01:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
The likely source of your problem is an obstruction somewhere in the EMM cooling line caused by the fact that you haven't routinely flushed the cooling system causing a build up of salt or that you have ingested some sand or other obstruction.

The first thing you should do is trace the EMM cooling route. You'll see that the cooling water runs from the top of the block, through the EMM and then into the vapor separator and then into the motor leg where it is discharged. You probably have a blockage either in the EMM or the vapor separator. To find where the blockage is, disconnect the hoses leading to and from the EMM and blow through the fitting on the EMM. Don't use compressed air. It should be very easy to blow through (basically not more resistance than blowing up a balloon). If not, you have a blockage there.

Blow into the hose leading to the top of the block. Should be easy to blow through and you'll probably hear a little gurgling noise.

Next, disconnect the hoses on the can-in-a-can vapor separator (remove port pan to get better access to the vapor separator) and blow through the vapor separator. It should be easy to blow through about like the EMM. If not, you have a blockage which is probably at the lower exit fitting where junk can accumulate.

It's highly unlikely that the hoses are blocked and thus I doubt they need replacement. In any event they thermoformed with bends so you would want to replace any hoses with OEM hoses otherwise you run the risk of kinks with straight hose.

If you don't find any blockages then the EMM may have internal blockages. Do the above routine which is simple to do first and see what you find. Shouldn't take more than a half-hour to do. You'll need some new nylon ties to secure the hoses to the fittings.

LIP posted 12-03-2006 04:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for LIP    
Got out to the boat today to check the EMM cooling. Could blow thur the EMM inlet with no strain. Reconnected the EMM hose and disconnected the hose going to the vapor separator and started the engine. Got very good flow at idle. Blew thru the separator, no restriction.

The problem: complete shutdown without any alarm lights and then 3 alarm lights on after the light test sequence and no cranking. After 5 minutes it will start. This didn't happen during 2 - 6 hour fishing trips and then happened on the next 2. Always happend trolling around 2500 - 3000 rpm. That is just shy of getting the boat on a plane, around 12 knots, wahoo speed. Running out or back at 5000 - 5500, 25 - 30 knots, doesn't create the problem. Boat is 35'.

Plugs and all filters replaced 30 hours ago.

The first time this happened was after doing some test runs when the boat was re-launched a month ago. The dealers tech was on board and after the shutdown connected his Palm and found no error codes of any kind. It happened to both engines that time, only one engine since then. Engines have 700 hours. Actually one powerhead has 400 hours as it was replaced at 300 hours after it threw a rod thru the block.

Any ideas ?

zandstra posted 07-19-2007 04:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for zandstra  Send Email to zandstra     
I have a 2003 fitch 250hp with starter problems. Every time I try to start the motor the starter just spins. It does this a couple times and finally kicks over. It does this every time I try to start throughout the whole day. It always starts (so far) but not until it's spun a few times. I replaced the batteries and nothing changed. I just ordered the software & cable. No warning lights go off, it just needs to be turned over several times before the starter will turn the motor. Any advice?
Sal DiMercurio posted 07-19-2007 06:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
Remove the starter, [ very, very easy to do ], take it to an auto electric shop & have him go through it & put what ever it needs in new.
I just did mine [ myself ] & it starts like it just came from the factory.
Also, put a dab of grease on the teeth where it grabs the flywheel.
There's just a couple bolts holding it on, & 2 wires, 1 positive & 1 negative, be sure the key is on off & battery disconected.
Plus the starter so easy to get to, even you can find it & remove it.
Sal DiMercurio posted 07-19-2007 06:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
I have to correct Peter.
The cooling water dosen't come from the top of the head of the engine & into the emm & than into the vapor seperator, it goes through the vapor seperator first after coming from the water pump, & than into the top of the emm & than out the pisser.
Yes, it is a straight shot through the emm, so a 1/4" drill bit [ 12" long ] will work just fine, just take it real slow & easy, & do "NOT" force anything.

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