posted 06-11-2006 11:16 AM ET (US)        

After 1970 model numbers include the HP, as in J33ELUTa.
J=Johnson
33=HP
E=electric start
L=long (20") shaft
UT=year code (see below)
a=production run

[After 1980] the year code uses the letters of the word, "INTRODUCES" to represent the digits 1-0. So the UT would be 73.

I N T R O D U C E S 
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 

posted 06-11-2006 03:31 PM ET (US)            

Serial - 1827190
Model - RDS-20

posted 06-11-2006 06:05 PM ET (US)            

Fuel mix is 24:1
Plugs are Champion J4C (replaces J4J) gapped at .030"
Magneto points are set at .020"

Great engine. :)

posted 07-05-2006 11:59 PM ET (US)            

We have a Johnson motor with the MOD. No. - J25RWLCOS
So far we figure it out as so:

J = Johnson
25 = 25HP
RW = ***don't know***
L = longshaft
co = 1985
S = ***don't know***

posted 07-06-2006 07:55 AM ET (US)            

The "S" is a production run code, useful for ordering parts that may have changed during the life of the model.

Don't know about the "W", unless the "RW" means rewind.

My "directory" above is in error. I left out the 1970 to 1980 numbers. During that period both HP and year model are in the model number, as in: J25RL73. The "INTRODUCES" code began in 1980.

Red sky at night. . .
JB

posted 02-11-2007 01:43 AM ET (US)            

I scored an old 50's-ish johnson 5 hp outboard at an estate sale for a few bucks, but it's missing the label plate. However, the component level part numbers are still readable, and there is a circular chrome plate on the power head with the number 1238650.

Any ideas on where i might be able to find more information? or better yet, parts?

posted 02-11-2007 01:53 AM ET (US)            

You might contacting the guys at the Antique Outboard Motor Club, Inc.:

posted 04-19-2007 01:58 PM ET (US)            

What would that model number indicate?

[Change TOPIC to an entirely new discussion. Please begin a new thread if you wish to change the topic to something entirely new--jimh]

Thanks for any help.

posted 04-19-2007 03:10 PM ET (US)            

I have not seen a Johnny 6 with electric start, except there was a gadget on the market for a while that attached to the recoil starter that allowed starting with a hand held drill through the cowling.

posted 05-27-2007 08:03 PM ET (US)            

Fuel mix is officially 50:1, but most of my old salt wrench buddies say to run it with 24:1 due to sleeve bearings in critical points.

Spark plugs are Champion J4C gapped at .030" and points are set at .020".

posted 05-28-2007 08:23 AM ET (US)            

TC-W3 outboard oil is far superior to 30W automotive oil for any carbureted 2 stroke outboard. Far less smoke and carbon residue and far less plug fouling.

OMC called for 24:1 fuel mix up until 1964 and 50:1 for 1964 and later models. The change wasn't due to the introduction of TC-W outboard oil, it was the changeover to "frictionless" (ball and needle) bearings in most OMC outboards.

The JW and JH series didn't complete that changeover until 1970. My trusted expert friends recommend 24:1 with TC-W3 certified oil in JW and JH series engines made before 1970.

It is rare that small engine gurus recommend overriding manufacturer recommendations. This is one case. Another case is the manufacturer recommendations of a 100:1 fuel mix on several small engines made in the 1980s. After experiencing some corrosion in the crankcase of engines stored for extended periods OMC revised their spec to 50:1, but only after the specialists in the field made the switch on all "100:1" small engines.

posted 05-30-2007 07:50 AM ET (US)            

There should be a spray of water coming out the exhaust holes low on the leg, but that is not conclusive, nor is the wrenchs' trick of holding your hand on the powerhead for 3 seconds (if you can it is not too hot).

That said, if you cannot verify that the impeller has been replaced within the last 2 years, replace it.

That is a truly wonderful engine. If you treat it well it will make you love it.

posted 02-03-2008 10:28 AM ET (US)            

Also the Stop Switch is broken off down in the housing. Does anyone know whether that was a Push button kill switch or a lanyard safety pin type?

posted 04-16-2008 10:57 AM ET (US)         

If so, try this one for old Johnson numbers.

http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/ej_pdf/EJ%20Page%2033.pdf

posted 07-23-2008 07:50 PM ET (US)            

What year was the Johnson "Javelin Anniversary Edition" made?

posted 03-28-2009 03:42 PM ET (US)            

For a history of the Montgomery Ward department store chain, see

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montgomery_Ward

The letters "GG" in your model number are likely indicative of the engine being made by GALE PRODUCTS.

CONTINUOUSWAVE is not particularly interested in collecting or organizing information about obscure older outboard motors, and I recommend you pursue your investigation using other web resources. I can point you in the direction of one website, which is easily found and located using a search on the terms "Sea King outboard motor", at

posted 05-13-2009 11:51 PM ET (US)            

Jimh,

I think you should lock this old thread and leave the following link for those who end up here and want to find out what year motor they have.

posted 05-15-2009 12:29 PM ET (US)         

quote:

---

I will never ask anything HERE again

---

posted 05-15-2009 12:35 PM ET (US)            

quote:

---

I never knew Cherios were bad for you.

---

Well, when someone is depositing vulgar phrases in them, they are.

quote:

---

I will never ask anything HERE again.

---

posted 07-25-2009 03:40 PM ET (US)         

http://www.skoterskroten.com/img/arsmodellstabell.pdf

posted 07-26-2009 06:57 PM ET (US)         

They will help you out.

posted 07-31-2009 02:53 PM ET (US)            

i have just bought a johnson sea horse outboard for my fishing boat. would really appreciate some info with regard to model no. BJ 4 BRC OB. also there is no spark. any one no how to remove the flywheel?

posted 08-06-2009 10:34 PM ET (US)         

http://www.aomci.org/

posted 09-21-2009 02:59 PM ET (US)            

i.e. J33ELUTa = Johnson, 33 HP, Electric Start, 1973 (UT=1973).

The TD-20 model was available from 1941-1949 (with some production suspended for WWII).

The "D" means it is a direct drive motor - meaning there is probably no clutch to give you a neutral gear.

It is 5 hp (at the powerhead).

That's the best I could do...Others here can help further.

posted 01-14-2010 07:54 PM ET (US)            

Upon further looking and a better flashlight, the numbers are actually QD 17. I think it is still a 1956. There are some owners manuals for sale for model QD 17 which indicate that the model year is 1956. Am I correct?

posted 04-17-2010 12:50 PM ET (US)            

If it is possible the engine were made post-1980, then see the first article in this thread for a guide to interpretation of the model identifier

J30RERM

If the information already provided in this thread is applied to interpreting this engine as a post-1980 model, the interpretation would be

posted 08-11-2010 11:33 AM ET (US)            

I have for intents and purposes a Johnson 40hp Electrashift superquiet. Now thats everything on the outside of the housing from top to bottom.

I have searched high and low for the modle tag and serial number and have come up with nothing other then the circular ID disk which has stamped in it the large O with the M in the center of it and the numbers as follows: J3300506. I am trying to figure the year so I can order parts. Seems my ball park is somewheres between 1962 and 1970.

This motor has been setting around for almost 10 years, has great compression. I have found no real damage to the motor. The fuel bowl looked like someone put jelly in it, but some carb and choke cleaner and all the passages cleaned out and looks fine.

I want to put in a new water pump inpeller and figure now would be the time to hit up all the seals and hopefully gaskets on the lower end. By the way, lower end lube came out clean, no water or debris. I just dont want to get this running, put it in the water and find out that I have just blown out all my low end lube and replaced it with water........LOL