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Author Topic:   Carburetor Cleaner Alternative

R T M posted 12-09-2009 03:05 PM ET (US)
The instructions in the carburetor kit says use carburetor cleaner or lacquer thinner. Is it worth spending the extra money for carburetor cleaner? Does it do a better job?
rich/Binkie
fishgutz posted 12-09-2009 03:26 PM ET (US)
I stopped using carb cleaner when I poured some into a pan, went into the house for some tools, came back and the liquid had completely evaporated. Then I used some other spray cleaners and sprayed each part, one at a time. I think I used Schaeffer's Citrol:
http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/266_citrol.html
There are other similar products out there if Citrol isn't available.
fishgutz posted 12-09-2009 03:28 PM ET (US)
Oh, my point. It seems there were several other products that worked quite well with less waste/evaporation.
Tohsgib posted 12-09-2009 03:43 PM ET (US)
Carb cleaner is some wicked stuff and pretty cheap. At $3 a bottle, it lasts a long time if you don't try filling up jars/pans with it. You basically use it to clean the varnish. If you want to soak carbs then buy a soaker can with carb cleaner in it. You put the carb in it and shut the lid.
zotcha posted 12-09-2009 04:08 PM ET (US)
Rich, thats what we finally did for cleaning the Holley on the Skiff. Initial investment but really convenient. You'll be surprised how much you'll use it.
Other favorite trick: guitar strings for cleaning ports and passages. Good luck. zot.
L H G posted 12-09-2009 05:51 PM ET (US)
Mercury is now saying that you don't need their "Fuel System Cleaner" (carb & fuel injector cleaner) if you are using E-10 gasoline, and that you only need it for 100% pure gas. Now the E-10 does the cleaning by itself.
So I guess these carb cleaners are nothing but ethanol!
If you are running E-10, you want to use Stabilizer instead, ALL OF THE TIME, to prevent the much faster E-10 fuel evaporization which leaves behind the varnish the clogs up injectors and carbs during periods of no use. And don't forget the QuickClean also, every 4th tank of fuel.
L H G posted 12-09-2009 05:52 PM ET (US)
Here's the Mercury link:
http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/fuel-system-cleaner-p189016.html
L H G posted 12-09-2009 05:55 PM ET (US)
And another good link regarding the recommended us of stabilizer when using E-10:
http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/ fuel-system-treatment-and-stabilizer-concentrate-p227703.html
Wasatch Whaler posted 12-09-2009 07:56 PM ET (US)
I've found carburetor cleaner to be very handy to have around, and not just for carburetors....
In my experience there is not a significant difference in quality between the Wal Mart brand and name brands such as Gumout. There's a big difference in price.
number9 posted 12-09-2009 11:28 PM ET (US)
FYI,
When they say carb cleaner, it's not Spray Carb & Choke type.
Bill
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1451533
seahorse posted 12-10-2009 07:23 AM ET (US)
For cleaning carbs and blowing out passageways, the carbon cleaning sprays from the engine manufacturers work very well, especially with varnish.
Evinrude's Engine Tuner comes out as a foam which stays in place and does not evaporate.
Merc's Quick Kleen and Yamaha's Combustion Cleaner work well also.
jimh posted 12-10-2009 09:01 AM ET (US)
If any manufacturer would know about carburetor clogging problems, it would be Mercury (based on the many articles posted here about problems with their carburetors), and their advice on how to condition fuel for use with Mercury carburetor engines should probably be given some heed.
R T M posted 12-10-2009 10:49 AM ET (US)
The carbs I am cleaning are Chrysleroutboard carbs, and are very simple. In fact the rebuild kit is for engines from 6-135hp. In fact the only difference I can find is in the low and high speed needle, and the high speed needle is not adjustable. There may be other differences though, as the different size hp ratings have different numbers stamped on the carbs. I have powerheads for 75, 80, and 105 hp, I switched from the 75hp 3 cylinder 3 carb, powerhead bolted on my Chrysler racing lower unit, mounted on my raceboat, to a 4 cyl 2 carb 105hp powerhead. I replaced the dirty 105hp carbs with two of the rebuilt 75carbs, and had all kind of performance and running problems.
rich/binkie
number9 posted 12-10-2009 01:34 PM ET (US)
Work smarter not harder.
If somebody is going to trouble of rebuilding carbs or really clean parts especially with small passages a cold soak product is the way to go. All the spray or liquid carb, choke and carb cleaners evaporate too quickly and don't get a chance to soak/loosen a lot of stuff. They are great for the final cleaning after soaking. The initial investment of a gallon of the real stuff may be a bit more but it can be reused over and over to clean other things too. It's what the good professional re-builders use, vats of the stuff for heads, blocks, pistons and the whole nine yards.
This stuff(B9)sounds better than the Gunk after reading MSDS, you don't want to get the CA version, it's not nasty enough. The only downside is unless you get the gentle CA version it doesn't come in the nice gallon with basket.
Berryman's B9 Chem Dip
Because of the chemical make up of this product, which contains Methylene Chloride and Cresylic Acid, disposal must conform to the rules of your community for proper disposal of Hazardous Waste. To prolong this disposal and reduce the amount of chemical, several of our customers use the spent product as a "pre-rinse" to use before dipping into a new bucket of Chem Dip. This allows the part to soak up a little of the spent solvent, which pre-softens some of the residual material on the part.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Portals/0/BPI%20MSDS/0901,%200905.pdf
Tohsgib posted 12-10-2009 02:18 PM ET (US)
Berryman's is wicked stuff. However I prefer the no-name brand cleaners that you get at autozone, etc. They seem to work much better, only cost $1.99 and kill wasps like Napomb. The costlier stuff like Holley and gumout, the wasps laugh at you.
R T M posted 12-10-2009 05:22 PM ET (US)
Can I buy carb cleaner in qt. cans? The carbs will fit in a qt. can (one at a time). I can buy a new qt. can with lid at Home Depot. How long should they soak in the covered can.
rich/Binkie
number9 posted 12-10-2009 10:45 PM ET (US)
The Berryman B9 only comes in one and five gallon sizes. Read it may be available at NAPA and recommendations of soaking 30 minutes to a couple hours. Imagine it has directions and cautions on the can.

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Author	Topic: Carburetor Cleaner Alternative
R T M	posted 12-09-2009 03:05 PM ET (US) The instructions in the carburetor kit says use carburetor cleaner or lacquer thinner. Is it worth spending the extra money for carburetor cleaner? Does it do a better job? rich/Binkie
fishgutz	posted 12-09-2009 03:26 PM ET (US) I stopped using carb cleaner when I poured some into a pan, went into the house for some tools, came back and the liquid had completely evaporated. Then I used some other spray cleaners and sprayed each part, one at a time. I think I used Schaeffer's Citrol: http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/266_citrol.html There are other similar products out there if Citrol isn't available.
fishgutz	posted 12-09-2009 03:28 PM ET (US) Oh, my point. It seems there were several other products that worked quite well with less waste/evaporation.
Tohsgib	posted 12-09-2009 03:43 PM ET (US) Carb cleaner is some wicked stuff and pretty cheap. At $3 a bottle, it lasts a long time if you don't try filling up jars/pans with it. You basically use it to clean the varnish. If you want to soak carbs then buy a soaker can with carb cleaner in it. You put the carb in it and shut the lid.
zotcha	posted 12-09-2009 04:08 PM ET (US) Rich, thats what we finally did for cleaning the Holley on the Skiff. Initial investment but really convenient. You'll be surprised how much you'll use it. Other favorite trick: guitar strings for cleaning ports and passages. Good luck. zot.
L H G	posted 12-09-2009 05:51 PM ET (US) Mercury is now saying that you don't need their "Fuel System Cleaner" (carb & fuel injector cleaner) if you are using E-10 gasoline, and that you only need it for 100% pure gas. Now the E-10 does the cleaning by itself. So I guess these carb cleaners are nothing but ethanol! If you are running E-10, you want to use Stabilizer instead, ALL OF THE TIME, to prevent the much faster E-10 fuel evaporization which leaves behind the varnish the clogs up injectors and carbs during periods of no use. And don't forget the QuickClean also, every 4th tank of fuel.
L H G	posted 12-09-2009 05:52 PM ET (US) Here's the Mercury link: http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/fuel-system-cleaner-p189016.html
L H G	posted 12-09-2009 05:55 PM ET (US) And another good link regarding the recommended us of stabilizer when using E-10: http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/ fuel-system-treatment-and-stabilizer-concentrate-p227703.html
Wasatch Whaler	posted 12-09-2009 07:56 PM ET (US) I've found carburetor cleaner to be very handy to have around, and not just for carburetors.... In my experience there is not a significant difference in quality between the Wal Mart brand and name brands such as Gumout. There's a big difference in price.
number9	posted 12-09-2009 11:28 PM ET (US) FYI, When they say carb cleaner, it's not Spray Carb & Choke type. Bill http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1451533
seahorse	posted 12-10-2009 07:23 AM ET (US) For cleaning carbs and blowing out passageways, the carbon cleaning sprays from the engine manufacturers work very well, especially with varnish. Evinrude's Engine Tuner comes out as a foam which stays in place and does not evaporate. Merc's Quick Kleen and Yamaha's Combustion Cleaner work well also.
jimh	posted 12-10-2009 09:01 AM ET (US) If any manufacturer would know about carburetor clogging problems, it would be Mercury (based on the many articles posted here about problems with their carburetors), and their advice on how to condition fuel for use with Mercury carburetor engines should probably be given some heed.
R T M	posted 12-10-2009 10:49 AM ET (US) The carbs I am cleaning are Chrysleroutboard carbs, and are very simple. In fact the rebuild kit is for engines from 6-135hp. In fact the only difference I can find is in the low and high speed needle, and the high speed needle is not adjustable. There may be other differences though, as the different size hp ratings have different numbers stamped on the carbs. I have powerheads for 75, 80, and 105 hp, I switched from the 75hp 3 cylinder 3 carb, powerhead bolted on my Chrysler racing lower unit, mounted on my raceboat, to a 4 cyl 2 carb 105hp powerhead. I replaced the dirty 105hp carbs with two of the rebuilt 75carbs, and had all kind of performance and running problems. rich/binkie
number9	posted 12-10-2009 01:34 PM ET (US) Work smarter not harder. If somebody is going to trouble of rebuilding carbs or really clean parts especially with small passages a cold soak product is the way to go. All the spray or liquid carb, choke and carb cleaners evaporate too quickly and don't get a chance to soak/loosen a lot of stuff. They are great for the final cleaning after soaking. The initial investment of a gallon of the real stuff may be a bit more but it can be reused over and over to clean other things too. It's what the good professional re-builders use, vats of the stuff for heads, blocks, pistons and the whole nine yards. This stuff(B9)sounds better than the Gunk after reading MSDS, you don't want to get the CA version, it's not nasty enough. The only downside is unless you get the gentle CA version it doesn't come in the nice gallon with basket. Berryman's B9 Chem Dip Because of the chemical make up of this product, which contains Methylene Chloride and Cresylic Acid, disposal must conform to the rules of your community for proper disposal of Hazardous Waste. To prolong this disposal and reduce the amount of chemical, several of our customers use the spent product as a "pre-rinse" to use before dipping into a new bucket of Chem Dip. This allows the part to soak up a little of the spent solvent, which pre-softens some of the residual material on the part. http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Portals/0/BPI%20MSDS/0901,%200905.pdf
Tohsgib	posted 12-10-2009 02:18 PM ET (US) Berryman's is wicked stuff. However I prefer the no-name brand cleaners that you get at autozone, etc. They seem to work much better, only cost $1.99 and kill wasps like Napomb. The costlier stuff like Holley and gumout, the wasps laugh at you.
R T M	posted 12-10-2009 05:22 PM ET (US) Can I buy carb cleaner in qt. cans? The carbs will fit in a qt. can (one at a time). I can buy a new qt. can with lid at Home Depot. How long should they soak in the covered can. rich/Binkie
number9	posted 12-10-2009 10:45 PM ET (US) The Berryman B9 only comes in one and five gallon sizes. Read it may be available at NAPA and recommendations of soaking 30 minutes to a couple hours. Imagine it has directions and cautions on the can.