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MosslandingJoe posted 08-16-2009 10:44 PM ET (US)

While reading my Mercury outboard operation maintenance and warranty manual I came across the following."Trailer your boat with the outboard in a vertical operating position.....Important: Do not rely on the power trim/tilt system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering." But the use of the tilt support lever was how trailering was demonstrated to me when I bought the boat, and I have always used the tilt lever to maintain ground clearance while trailering. Because if I put my motor in a vertical position the skeg is almost on the ground!( I have a 2004 Mountauk 170 with a 90 hp merc.)Now something just doesn't sound right to me. Is this just a legal disclaimer in case of transom damage? What do you guys think, and how do you position your outboards for trailering?
highanddry posted 08-16-2009 11:39 PM ET (US)
I stick a 2X4 between the engine and the mount. I release the hydraulic pressure with the white nylon screw on the hydraulic lift provided for that purpose. If I left my engine down I would no longer have a lower unit.
Hmm, wonder if this thread will vanish, never know.
deepwater posted 08-17-2009 03:52 AM ET (US)
That small piece of metal that holds the motor tilted is for on the water use,,Its not strong enough to handle the weight placed on it over the road,,I made a bar out of thread all and made a sling on one end and put the bar through an existing hole in the trailer,,They sell the same rig as a transom saver
Feejer posted 08-17-2009 06:57 AM ET (US)
Get one of these and you'll be fine. I've had one on my last 3 boats

[urlhttp://www.m-ywedge.com/[/url]
Feejer posted 08-17-2009 06:58 AM ET (US)
http://www.m-ywedge.com/
alfred posted 08-17-2009 08:57 AM ET (US)
2x4 works great.
Feejer posted 08-17-2009 10:22 AM ET (US)
If you want to save yourself 29 bucks go with the wood, if not their is nothing that beats the wedge.
ScottS posted 08-17-2009 11:27 AM ET (US)
I use the m-y wedge. It's hard rubber, so it won't damage the paint like wood might over time.
Feejer posted 08-17-2009 11:56 AM ET (US)
Here's photo of mine installed
http://8140341.phanfare.com/3711662#imageID=-65561917
Tohsgib posted 08-17-2009 02:20 PM ET (US)
The disclaimer is not for transom damage, it is in case the trim "creeps" down while trailering and your lower unit gets removed by the street.
Buckda posted 08-17-2009 03:13 PM ET (US)

quote:
it is in case the trim "creeps" down while trailering and your lower unit gets removed by the street

...still have vivid memories of my older brother towing the boat home from the lake when we were in High School with the I/O Mercruiser drive dragging along the pavement.
Thought for sure he ruined my chance of ever taking the boat to the ramp alone when I turned 16....
sapple posted 08-17-2009 04:33 PM ET (US)
Question for the 2X4 proponents. Does it work for the Mercury 90 fourstrok EFI that BW is putting on late model 170 Montauks?
muskrat posted 08-17-2009 06:04 PM ET (US)
I don't know why they suggest you trailer your boat with the motor in the vertical position. It is obviously not enough ground clearance for most boat and motor combination's. I use a piece of wood about 3x3" the goal being to keep the motor as low as safely possible which reduces the stress on the transom from the motor bouncing around.
highanddry posted 08-17-2009 09:45 PM ET (US)
You cannot use the power lift to insert the 2X4. I put the motor full down. I then release the hydraulic circuit with the white nylon screw in the right side of the engine mount, you should read your manual, all motors will have this feature. Once the screw releases the circuit, I sit down, with gloves on, grab the skeg and lift the engine, my wife inserts the 2X4. If you do it with the lift, well, I warned you.
oysterman posted 08-17-2009 10:09 PM ET (US)
I use a 2x6 on my Opti 115. Highanddry- why can't you simply insert the 2x4 and power trim the motor down? Seems like a lot of work your way.
RonB posted 08-17-2009 10:16 PM ET (US)
I also like m-y wedge
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=mywedge.jpg
Ron
highanddry posted 08-17-2009 10:55 PM ET (US)
Because the cylinder rod will crush into the board and mostly likely bend the c-r-a-p out of them and possibly ruin some other expensive parts.
For a two block tow, I would just lift the engine with the power lift, for my usual 2,000 mile tow, I put the 2X4 in there.
Tom W Clark posted 08-18-2009 12:00 AM ET (US)

quote:
I use the m-y wedge. It's hard rubber, so it won't damage the paint like wood might over time.
Uh, most soft woods that 2x4s or 2x6s are made of are softer than the material the M-Y Wedge is made of. No need to worry about paint damage.

quote:
You cannot use the power lift to insert the 2X4...because the cylinder rod will crush into the board and mostly likely bend the c-r-a-p out of them and possibly ruin some other expensive parts.
That is utter nonsense. It is a very simple matter to place a piece of wood in the motor and lower the motor onto it with the tilt switch. No harm will come to the tilt rams or the paint job.

highanddry posted 08-18-2009 12:13 AM ET (US)
Tom, you are sort of a j-a-s-s.
MosslandingJoe posted 08-18-2009 12:20 AM ET (US)
Thanx for the help, I will be getting a m-y wedge.
BlueMax posted 08-18-2009 02:54 AM ET (US)

quote:
Question for the 2X4 proponents. Does it work for the Mercury 90 fourstrok EFI that BW is putting on late model 170 Montauks?
I have a 2007 170 Montauk and I use a 2X4 block of wood scrounged from a DYI project. I looked seriously into the my-wedge and talked to many an old hand and self proclaimed expert at the docks - then watched what the locals did (I live on the ICW in NC) - simple block of wood for free it was and still is. Have not had any problems - longest I tow is about 65 miles to Wrightsville Beach (NC) MarineMax, though I once went to SC with it (about 300 miles round trip including around town) -
I mostly only tow 3-5 miles to a public ramp (2 available right near me) so I also have used the engine rest when I first got the boat (and still when I feel too ultra lazy to hold a block of wood in place while I lower the engine onto the rest). The boat also made the 120-140 mile round trip to Wrightsville MarineMax 4 times without problems the first season too.
I believe a key factor to consider is also condition of roads you intend to travel - I am fortunate to have all paved roads available and very limited dirt/gravel to traverse. Mostly pot hole free too - we don't have those nasty weather upheavals here like they do up North - unless you consider road erosion/disintegration from rain storms a nasty weather upheaval. Ha.
Just my experience,
Max
Feejer posted 08-18-2009 07:22 AM ET (US)
"Uh, most soft woods that 2x4s or 2x6s are made of are softer than the material the M-Y Wedge is made of. No need to worry about paint damage."

Not really, my M-Y Wedge will compress a good 1 to 1.5 inches when I let the engine down, giving it a softer ride.
Buckda posted 08-18-2009 08:52 AM ET (US)
highanddry -
I think you are mistaken in your approximation of Tom in general. And in particular, on this case, I think he is right.
If dropping the motor onto a 2x4 is going to damage the fragile mounting bracket or other expensive components of a Mercury motor, then I REALLY don't want a Mercury on my transom.
The fact of the matter is that your position is utter rubbish. It is true that you may crush the board a little. It is also true that you may mar the finish on your outboard, but how are you going to damage the bracket or "other expensive components"?
In the first place, Mercury could SOLVE this whole problem by installing a decent tilt bracket like Yamaha, Evinrude and Suzuki.
...but since they won't or haven't, owners are left with one of three options (in order of expense)
1) the 2x4 or block of wood or other material
2) the device like a m-y wedge
3) use of a "transom saver" device, which in this case becomes a "skeg saver"
Feejer posted 08-18-2009 12:08 PM ET (US)
I don't know about Evinrude and Suzuki but my Yamaha F150 and the same type of crappy bracket as my Verado does. NONE of them are designed for trailering.
Tom W Clark posted 08-18-2009 12:42 PM ET (US)
I don't know about the Yamahas, but the Mercury brackets on my is feeble. Bot only it is not designed for trailering, but the lever is on the opposite side of the motor form the tile switch necessitating throwing the lever and then walking around to the other side of ht motor.
The OMC motors had a dual bracket that flips down and then you lower the motor onto it and continue to cycle the trim/tile until the tilt rams are fully retracted.
This locks the motor to the mounting bracket and prevents all vertical movement of the motor during trailering, no block of wood required.
Buckda posted 08-18-2009 01:16 PM ET (US)
Well, perhaps the "old" and worn out mounting bracket used by Evinrude is superior for this purpose then. I was trying not to sound like an Evinrude commercial - but they do seem to have resolved this problem.
johnhenry posted 08-18-2009 02:50 PM ET (US)
I was also told by the dealer to use the support bracket for towing. By the owners son, no less. Not that I want to damage my engine, but why would the dealer advise this if there was a potential for damage? If there was damage wouldn't the dealer or Mercury be liable?
johnhenry posted 08-18-2009 02:52 PM ET (US)
BTW this was on My 08 Montauk 170.
sapple posted 08-18-2009 03:46 PM ET (US)
The user's manual for the Merc on my 2007 170 Montauk says not to use the safety bracket for trailering. I was told by my dealer that a transom saver was not necessary because the hydraulic trim was more than adequate to keep the motor up enough for ground clearance. In the past 2 years I have towed my boat for at least 2000 miles this way with no problems so far.
Does anyone have pictures of how they use the 2X4 method with the Merc 90 fourstroke EFI ?

Scott Grey posted 08-18-2009 04:18 PM ET (US)
Mercury sells a sleeve that goes over the lift cylinder for towing and costs around $17.00. I have been using it for around 3 years now and it works fine. Comes on and off fast and easy.
My 2 cents
Bella con23 posted 08-18-2009 07:51 PM ET (US)
I like the strap method. When I tilt the outboard up fully, the center of gravity is towards the splashwell. I cinch down on the lower unit and prevent it from bouncing at all.
Seems to me that with a block of wood or the wedge device I would probably be leaving them all over the road.
http://www.pbase.com/metuchen/image/116245876
Feejer posted 08-18-2009 08:26 PM ET (US)
Isn't the point to try and take some load OFF the trim/tilt hydraulics? I would think having that strap would just add pressure.
deepwater posted 08-19-2009 04:11 AM ET (US)
The point is to move the weight of the motor up and over the top of the transom rather than having it hang off the rear
Bella con23 posted 08-19-2009 07:47 AM ET (US)
That's my point. The outboard want's to go into the boat so the strap keeps it from bouncing that way.
Thats a 225 HP outboard which seems to be top heavy. I dont know if the smaller outboards are more bottom heavy.
themclos posted 08-19-2009 09:41 AM ET (US)
The bracket on my 225HP Optimax does not look robust enough to me. I have been using a 2 x 4, but have ordered a m-y wedge.
Granted, the motors were smaller, but the brackets on my 40HP Johnson and 70HP Yamaha were much more robust and easily supported the motors.
In fact, the bracket on the 70HP Yamaha was of a heavier duty material and construction than that on the Optimax.
Joe, I agree with you. The 225HP motor, and other larger horsepower motors, appears to be, proportionally, much more top heavy than the smaller horsepower motors.
sapple posted 08-19-2009 10:42 AM ET (US)
I just double checked the user's manual for my 2007 Merc 90 fourstroke EFI. It says don't rely the hydraulic lift for ground clearance. It also says don't rely on the safety bracket. It is obvious that you cannot leave it in the fully down position since the ground clearance for the skeg would be about 2mm. But what it doesn't say is what you are supposed to do. I take that to mean; come up with your own solution but don't complain to us if something goes wrong because we didn't recommend it.
Feejer posted 08-19-2009 12:30 PM ET (US)
Pretty stupid isn't it.
Sounds like they took their instructions from Yamaha. I had a 2004 Yamaha FJR1300. Its a sport touring bike which had a center stand and a side stand. Per the manual I was not suppose to leave the bike on the side stand for extended periods of time. For extended periods your suppose to use the center stand (which can be a real bitch on a 600lb bike. Nobody and Yamaha or the dealer could tell me what the heck "Extended Period" was suppose to be. After an hour, day, year??? Nobody new.
sapple posted 08-19-2009 01:04 PM ET (US)
That's the beauty of being non-specific. You can't be pinned down.
deepwater posted 08-19-2009 08:37 PM ET (US)
Bellacon23,,I am not aware of any bottom heavy motors,,4 or 5 or 200hp all are heavy on top,,That and im not sure what type of trailer you all are using but with 14" tires my Montauk has a 10" ground clearance to the skeg and i have never grounded out and dont always use the transom saver,,Are you guys riding tounge high??
Bella con23 posted 08-19-2009 10:01 PM ET (US)
Negative on the tongue height. My Load Rite trailer is level on the road and I make sure it is to minimize the potential to jack knife in a collision or panic stops.
However, if I drop the outboard down, it will be one inch from the road. I enjoy not having to back my vehicle's rear wheels into the water to launch or retrieve due to the low position of the boat on the trailer.
It also keeps the boat at a low center of gravity around turns.
Chuck Tribolet posted 08-19-2009 11:11 PM ET (US)
Merc needs a better support. I've seen that piece of
sheet metal on a buddy's boat.
My '97ish Evinrude 90 has a proper support. 12 years, about
7000 miles a year, no problem.
I personally think that the right place for an outboard when
trailering is with the CG of the outboard above the transom,
more or less.
Bella: I don't think the attitude of the trailer frame is
important to anything but aesthetics and clearance. What
counts for handing is tongue weight vs total weight, and
the ball location vs the contact patch of the trailer tires.
Everything else is just how steel gets from here to there.
Jack-knifing happens because the tow vehicle stops better than
the towed vehicle.
Chuck
Bella con23 posted 08-19-2009 11:30 PM ET (US)
Chuck - that's a good point. My trailer does a little more than 50% of the braking when I tow it. I can feel it compared to not having the boat back there.
As far as the center of gravity on this outboard, it is clearly over the top in the highest position. That's why I thought the strap was the way to go due to fact that the lower end wants to bounce up not down.
By securing the lower unit against the extent of the trim cylinder, I am able to eliminate the bouncing motion of the lower unit.
Joe
lakeman posted 08-24-2009 06:30 AM ET (US)
I think you are all beating a dead horse thread to death, seems more like a winter nothing to do thread.
Anyway, most everyone has there opinions from dealers,to people who must live in remote areas where roads and conditions are adverse. Personally my opinion after thousands, thousands and thousands of miles of boat towing , mostly Florida, is a 2X4 in the transom bracket, I have use them on Mercury, Johnson, and others, they are lost(not from falling out) easily but cheap to replace. Sometimes I will even drill a hole in one and put a rope on it to keep it from getting lost, I have even painted some of them. Yes, there are many new high tech options out there and if you need or feel the need for one go for it.
Tohsgib posted 08-24-2009 12:27 PM ET (US)
Wedges...we don't need no STINKING wedges!
muskrat posted 08-24-2009 09:09 PM ET (US)
deepwater To the contrary, every motor I have ever owned has been bottom heavy. Even my 135 johnson which had no power trim, when I would lift the motor all the way up, remove the manual support and let it go it would fall into the water just like my 25, 15, and 3.5 hp. My newest motor a merc 115 4 stroke looks top heavy but still seems to want to fall out of the boat, though I've never disconnected the power tilt so I'm not sure.

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Author	Topic: outboard position while trailering
MosslandingJoe	posted 08-16-2009 10:44 PM ET (US) While reading my Mercury outboard operation maintenance and warranty manual I came across the following."Trailer your boat with the outboard in a vertical operating position.....Important: Do not rely on the power trim/tilt system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering." But the use of the tilt support lever was how trailering was demonstrated to me when I bought the boat, and I have always used the tilt lever to maintain ground clearance while trailering. Because if I put my motor in a vertical position the skeg is almost on the ground!( I have a 2004 Mountauk 170 with a 90 hp merc.)Now something just doesn't sound right to me. Is this just a legal disclaimer in case of transom damage? What do you guys think, and how do you position your outboards for trailering?
highanddry	posted 08-16-2009 11:39 PM ET (US) I stick a 2X4 between the engine and the mount. I release the hydraulic pressure with the white nylon screw on the hydraulic lift provided for that purpose. If I left my engine down I would no longer have a lower unit. Hmm, wonder if this thread will vanish, never know.
deepwater	posted 08-17-2009 03:52 AM ET (US) That small piece of metal that holds the motor tilted is for on the water use,,Its not strong enough to handle the weight placed on it over the road,,I made a bar out of thread all and made a sling on one end and put the bar through an existing hole in the trailer,,They sell the same rig as a transom saver
Feejer	posted 08-17-2009 06:57 AM ET (US) Get one of these and you'll be fine. I've had one on my last 3 boats [urlhttp://www.m-ywedge.com/[/url]
Feejer	posted 08-17-2009 06:58 AM ET (US) http://www.m-ywedge.com/
alfred	posted 08-17-2009 08:57 AM ET (US) 2x4 works great.
Feejer	posted 08-17-2009 10:22 AM ET (US) If you want to save yourself 29 bucks go with the wood, if not their is nothing that beats the wedge.
ScottS	posted 08-17-2009 11:27 AM ET (US) I use the m-y wedge. It's hard rubber, so it won't damage the paint like wood might over time.
Feejer	posted 08-17-2009 11:56 AM ET (US) Here's photo of mine installed http://8140341.phanfare.com/3711662#imageID=-65561917
Tohsgib	posted 08-17-2009 02:20 PM ET (US) The disclaimer is not for transom damage, it is in case the trim "creeps" down while trailering and your lower unit gets removed by the street.
Buckda	posted 08-17-2009 03:13 PM ET (US) quote: it is in case the trim "creeps" down while trailering and your lower unit gets removed by the street ...still have vivid memories of my older brother towing the boat home from the lake when we were in High School with the I/O Mercruiser drive dragging along the pavement. Thought for sure he ruined my chance of ever taking the boat to the ramp alone when I turned 16....
sapple	posted 08-17-2009 04:33 PM ET (US) Question for the 2X4 proponents. Does it work for the Mercury 90 fourstrok EFI that BW is putting on late model 170 Montauks?
muskrat	posted 08-17-2009 06:04 PM ET (US) I don't know why they suggest you trailer your boat with the motor in the vertical position. It is obviously not enough ground clearance for most boat and motor combination's. I use a piece of wood about 3x3" the goal being to keep the motor as low as safely possible which reduces the stress on the transom from the motor bouncing around.
highanddry	posted 08-17-2009 09:45 PM ET (US) You cannot use the power lift to insert the 2X4. I put the motor full down. I then release the hydraulic circuit with the white nylon screw in the right side of the engine mount, you should read your manual, all motors will have this feature. Once the screw releases the circuit, I sit down, with gloves on, grab the skeg and lift the engine, my wife inserts the 2X4. If you do it with the lift, well, I warned you.
oysterman	posted 08-17-2009 10:09 PM ET (US) I use a 2x6 on my Opti 115. Highanddry- why can't you simply insert the 2x4 and power trim the motor down? Seems like a lot of work your way.
RonB	posted 08-17-2009 10:16 PM ET (US) I also like m-y wedge http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/rbuchholz63/Boston%20Whaler/ 2007%20Outrage%2019/?action=view¤t=mywedge.jpg Ron
highanddry	posted 08-17-2009 10:55 PM ET (US) Because the cylinder rod will crush into the board and mostly likely bend the c-r-a-p out of them and possibly ruin some other expensive parts. For a two block tow, I would just lift the engine with the power lift, for my usual 2,000 mile tow, I put the 2X4 in there.
Tom W Clark	posted 08-18-2009 12:00 AM ET (US) quote: I use the m-y wedge. It's hard rubber, so it won't damage the paint like wood might over time. Uh, most soft woods that 2x4s or 2x6s are made of are softer than the material the M-Y Wedge is made of. No need to worry about paint damage. quote: You cannot use the power lift to insert the 2X4...because the cylinder rod will crush into the board and mostly likely bend the c-r-a-p out of them and possibly ruin some other expensive parts. That is utter nonsense. It is a very simple matter to place a piece of wood in the motor and lower the motor onto it with the tilt switch. No harm will come to the tilt rams or the paint job.
highanddry	posted 08-18-2009 12:13 AM ET (US) Tom, you are sort of a j-a-s-s.
MosslandingJoe	posted 08-18-2009 12:20 AM ET (US) Thanx for the help, I will be getting a m-y wedge.
BlueMax	posted 08-18-2009 02:54 AM ET (US) quote: Question for the 2X4 proponents. Does it work for the Mercury 90 fourstrok EFI that BW is putting on late model 170 Montauks? I have a 2007 170 Montauk and I use a 2X4 block of wood scrounged from a DYI project. I looked seriously into the my-wedge and talked to many an old hand and self proclaimed expert at the docks - then watched what the locals did (I live on the ICW in NC) - simple block of wood for free it was and still is. Have not had any problems - longest I tow is about 65 miles to Wrightsville Beach (NC) MarineMax, though I once went to SC with it (about 300 miles round trip including around town) - I mostly only tow 3-5 miles to a public ramp (2 available right near me) so I also have used the engine rest when I first got the boat (and still when I feel too ultra lazy to hold a block of wood in place while I lower the engine onto the rest). The boat also made the 120-140 mile round trip to Wrightsville MarineMax 4 times without problems the first season too. I believe a key factor to consider is also condition of roads you intend to travel - I am fortunate to have all paved roads available and very limited dirt/gravel to traverse. Mostly pot hole free too - we don't have those nasty weather upheavals here like they do up North - unless you consider road erosion/disintegration from rain storms a nasty weather upheaval. Ha. Just my experience, Max
Feejer	posted 08-18-2009 07:22 AM ET (US) "Uh, most soft woods that 2x4s or 2x6s are made of are softer than the material the M-Y Wedge is made of. No need to worry about paint damage." Not really, my M-Y Wedge will compress a good 1 to 1.5 inches when I let the engine down, giving it a softer ride.
Buckda	posted 08-18-2009 08:52 AM ET (US) highanddry - I think you are mistaken in your approximation of Tom in general. And in particular, on this case, I think he is right. If dropping the motor onto a 2x4 is going to damage the fragile mounting bracket or other expensive components of a Mercury motor, then I REALLY don't want a Mercury on my transom. The fact of the matter is that your position is utter rubbish. It is true that you may crush the board a little. It is also true that you may mar the finish on your outboard, but how are you going to damage the bracket or "other expensive components"? In the first place, Mercury could SOLVE this whole problem by installing a decent tilt bracket like Yamaha, Evinrude and Suzuki. ...but since they won't or haven't, owners are left with one of three options (in order of expense) 1) the 2x4 or block of wood or other material 2) the device like a m-y wedge 3) use of a "transom saver" device, which in this case becomes a "skeg saver"
Feejer	posted 08-18-2009 12:08 PM ET (US) I don't know about Evinrude and Suzuki but my Yamaha F150 and the same type of crappy bracket as my Verado does. NONE of them are designed for trailering.
Tom W Clark	posted 08-18-2009 12:42 PM ET (US) I don't know about the Yamahas, but the Mercury brackets on my is feeble. Bot only it is not designed for trailering, but the lever is on the opposite side of the motor form the tile switch necessitating throwing the lever and then walking around to the other side of ht motor. The OMC motors had a dual bracket that flips down and then you lower the motor onto it and continue to cycle the trim/tile until the tilt rams are fully retracted. This locks the motor to the mounting bracket and prevents all vertical movement of the motor during trailering, no block of wood required.
Buckda	posted 08-18-2009 01:16 PM ET (US) Well, perhaps the "old" and worn out mounting bracket used by Evinrude is superior for this purpose then. I was trying not to sound like an Evinrude commercial - but they do seem to have resolved this problem.
johnhenry	posted 08-18-2009 02:50 PM ET (US) I was also told by the dealer to use the support bracket for towing. By the owners son, no less. Not that I want to damage my engine, but why would the dealer advise this if there was a potential for damage? If there was damage wouldn't the dealer or Mercury be liable?
johnhenry	posted 08-18-2009 02:52 PM ET (US) BTW this was on My 08 Montauk 170.
sapple	posted 08-18-2009 03:46 PM ET (US) The user's manual for the Merc on my 2007 170 Montauk says not to use the safety bracket for trailering. I was told by my dealer that a transom saver was not necessary because the hydraulic trim was more than adequate to keep the motor up enough for ground clearance. In the past 2 years I have towed my boat for at least 2000 miles this way with no problems so far. Does anyone have pictures of how they use the 2X4 method with the Merc 90 fourstroke EFI ?
Scott Grey	posted 08-18-2009 04:18 PM ET (US) Mercury sells a sleeve that goes over the lift cylinder for towing and costs around $17.00. I have been using it for around 3 years now and it works fine. Comes on and off fast and easy. My 2 cents
Bella con23	posted 08-18-2009 07:51 PM ET (US) I like the strap method. When I tilt the outboard up fully, the center of gravity is towards the splashwell. I cinch down on the lower unit and prevent it from bouncing at all. Seems to me that with a block of wood or the wedge device I would probably be leaving them all over the road. http://www.pbase.com/metuchen/image/116245876
Feejer	posted 08-18-2009 08:26 PM ET (US) Isn't the point to try and take some load OFF the trim/tilt hydraulics? I would think having that strap would just add pressure.
deepwater	posted 08-19-2009 04:11 AM ET (US) The point is to move the weight of the motor up and over the top of the transom rather than having it hang off the rear
Bella con23	posted 08-19-2009 07:47 AM ET (US) That's my point. The outboard want's to go into the boat so the strap keeps it from bouncing that way. Thats a 225 HP outboard which seems to be top heavy. I dont know if the smaller outboards are more bottom heavy.
themclos	posted 08-19-2009 09:41 AM ET (US) The bracket on my 225HP Optimax does not look robust enough to me. I have been using a 2 x 4, but have ordered a m-y wedge. Granted, the motors were smaller, but the brackets on my 40HP Johnson and 70HP Yamaha were much more robust and easily supported the motors. In fact, the bracket on the 70HP Yamaha was of a heavier duty material and construction than that on the Optimax. Joe, I agree with you. The 225HP motor, and other larger horsepower motors, appears to be, proportionally, much more top heavy than the smaller horsepower motors.
sapple	posted 08-19-2009 10:42 AM ET (US) I just double checked the user's manual for my 2007 Merc 90 fourstroke EFI. It says don't rely the hydraulic lift for ground clearance. It also says don't rely on the safety bracket. It is obvious that you cannot leave it in the fully down position since the ground clearance for the skeg would be about 2mm. But what it doesn't say is what you are supposed to do. I take that to mean; come up with your own solution but don't complain to us if something goes wrong because we didn't recommend it.
Feejer	posted 08-19-2009 12:30 PM ET (US) Pretty stupid isn't it. Sounds like they took their instructions from Yamaha. I had a 2004 Yamaha FJR1300. Its a sport touring bike which had a center stand and a side stand. Per the manual I was not suppose to leave the bike on the side stand for extended periods of time. For extended periods your suppose to use the center stand (which can be a real bitch on a 600lb bike. Nobody and Yamaha or the dealer could tell me what the heck "Extended Period" was suppose to be. After an hour, day, year??? Nobody new.
sapple	posted 08-19-2009 01:04 PM ET (US) That's the beauty of being non-specific. You can't be pinned down.
deepwater	posted 08-19-2009 08:37 PM ET (US) Bellacon23,,I am not aware of any bottom heavy motors,,4 or 5 or 200hp all are heavy on top,,That and im not sure what type of trailer you all are using but with 14" tires my Montauk has a 10" ground clearance to the skeg and i have never grounded out and dont always use the transom saver,,Are you guys riding tounge high??
Bella con23	posted 08-19-2009 10:01 PM ET (US) Negative on the tongue height. My Load Rite trailer is level on the road and I make sure it is to minimize the potential to jack knife in a collision or panic stops. However, if I drop the outboard down, it will be one inch from the road. I enjoy not having to back my vehicle's rear wheels into the water to launch or retrieve due to the low position of the boat on the trailer. It also keeps the boat at a low center of gravity around turns.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 08-19-2009 11:11 PM ET (US) Merc needs a better support. I've seen that piece of sheet metal on a buddy's boat. My '97ish Evinrude 90 has a proper support. 12 years, about 7000 miles a year, no problem. I personally think that the right place for an outboard when trailering is with the CG of the outboard above the transom, more or less. Bella: I don't think the attitude of the trailer frame is important to anything but aesthetics and clearance. What counts for handing is tongue weight vs total weight, and the ball location vs the contact patch of the trailer tires. Everything else is just how steel gets from here to there. Jack-knifing happens because the tow vehicle stops better than the towed vehicle. Chuck
Bella con23	posted 08-19-2009 11:30 PM ET (US) Chuck - that's a good point. My trailer does a little more than 50% of the braking when I tow it. I can feel it compared to not having the boat back there. As far as the center of gravity on this outboard, it is clearly over the top in the highest position. That's why I thought the strap was the way to go due to fact that the lower end wants to bounce up not down. By securing the lower unit against the extent of the trim cylinder, I am able to eliminate the bouncing motion of the lower unit. Joe
lakeman	posted 08-24-2009 06:30 AM ET (US) I think you are all beating a dead horse thread to death, seems more like a winter nothing to do thread. Anyway, most everyone has there opinions from dealers,to people who must live in remote areas where roads and conditions are adverse. Personally my opinion after thousands, thousands and thousands of miles of boat towing , mostly Florida, is a 2X4 in the transom bracket, I have use them on Mercury, Johnson, and others, they are lost(not from falling out) easily but cheap to replace. Sometimes I will even drill a hole in one and put a rope on it to keep it from getting lost, I have even painted some of them. Yes, there are many new high tech options out there and if you need or feel the need for one go for it.
Tohsgib	posted 08-24-2009 12:27 PM ET (US) Wedges...we don't need no STINKING wedges!
muskrat	posted 08-24-2009 09:09 PM ET (US) deepwater To the contrary, every motor I have ever owned has been bottom heavy. Even my 135 johnson which had no power trim, when I would lift the motor all the way up, remove the manual support and let it go it would fall into the water just like my 25, 15, and 3.5 hp. My newest motor a merc 115 4 stroke looks top heavy but still seems to want to fall out of the boat, though I've never disconnected the power tilt so I'm not sure.