The article is a continuation from Part One.

OUTRAGE RESTORATION--PART TWO

by Jeff Rohlfing

REBUILDING THE DECK

We built a table than was bigger than the deck panel in order to create a good flat, level, working surface. The table must be able to bear the weight of the deck, the reinforcment wood, and weights used to apply pressure. Weights are used to conform the wood to the deck to prevent voids. A voids equals a weak bond. Once the table was built we began cutting the plywood for the backing. The factory used one layer of 1/4-inch then one layer of 3/8-inch to build the deck. We used three layers of 1/4-inch and staggered the joints. This would certainly help to build a stronger deck.

Figure 21. It is very important to stay organized when working with resins. Due to the short working times you need to be quick and efficient. We have three tables set up: one for mixing the epoxy, one for preparing floor panels, and one holding the deck. With the liquid nature of the resin you can easily get it all over everything you don't want in a hurry. Stay organized and think about what you are going to do before you do it. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 22. The deck panel with weights holding the reinforcement panels in place. We let is sit like this for a week before beginning to laminate it together. This allowed the wood and deck to flatten out and conform to each other. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

LAMINATING WOOD REINFORCEMENT TO MOLDED DECKS

With all of the new wood precut and the molded decks stripped of rotten wood and prepared for new, we were ready to begin laminating the new wood to the old decks.

Figure 23. The topside of the molded deck is sealed with tape so that resin cannot drip through old screw holes during the laminating of new reinforcement wood. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

The molded cover of the rear cockpit locker had salvageable wood. We began working on this first. We used WEST Systems epoxy mixed with Cab-o-sil to fill all of the voided areas. Cab-o-sil is a thickening agent that gets mixed into epoxy to create some body in the cured resin. If just epoxy is used, it will crack into pieces when stressed. The Cab-o-sil and resin mixture is the creamy substance seen in many of the photographs below.

Figure 24. A layer of cloth was laminated over the existing wood to add strength. The surface was roughed to provide better adhesion. This helps the bond between old and new layers in the laminate structure. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

While the stern well cover cured, we began work on the main deck cover. Voids were filled with the thickened resin. Both the new wood and the old molded deck were then wetted out with unthickened resin.

Figure 25. Applying resin to the new reinforcement wood using a yellow plastic spreader tool sold by WEST Systems. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 26. The underside of the molded deck cover wetted with resin. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

With both sides wet with resin, we laid the new wood reinforcement onto the underside of the molded deck, adding weights to press them together. I recommend 50-pound bags of rock salt for weights. They cost about $2.50 a bag. I had a couple from my truck that I used, but I wish I had bought more.

Figure 27. A variety of heavy objects apply weight to the wood to press it down to the deck to create a good bond. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

When this laminating was done the air temperature was in the 50°F range, too cold for good curing of the epoxy. We kept a propane heater on the floor under the table to keep the components of the laminate structure warm.

Figure 29. We tented the floor and table with the heater and let it cure for an hour before shutting the heater off. This kicked the epoxy off well. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 30. The deck now built up to the third layer of wood reinforcement. Cloth has been laminated on top of the wood for additional strength. The cloth overlaps down the center for added strength in this area. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 31. At the lip of the deck the wood reinforcement edge was filleted with some thickened resin. This created a nice surface for the cloth laminate to adhere to. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 32. Cross section of the deck structure as re-built. Drawing Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

REINSTALLING REPAIRED DECK INTO THE BOAT;
REFURBISHING BELOW DECK SYSTEMS

With the final glass work done on the deck panels, it was time to bring the hull back home. My father and I figured working in his garage would be the best place to work. Fitting the boat in the garage took some engineering. With a little work and a set of dolly jacks the boat was manuevered into the garage. The trailer was jacked up and blocked into place. This helps to keep the boat in place. With the wheels removed, the hubs and bearings were also checked.

Figure 36. With the boat secure on blocks, we tented the hull and put a dehumidifier under the plastic to dry out all of the foam around the fuel tank. This did not help as much as we thought it would. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 37. The plastic tent was removed after three days of drying. I began to finish the teak gunwale caps. I removed all of the hawsepipes, stainless steel fittings, rod holders, etc., to polished them, and also to make the sanding easier. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Stay organized when breaking everything down. I used tackle boxes for this task. As hardware and fasteners were removed, they were kept together and labeled. There were two boxes of fasteners alone.

Figure 40. Removed hardware was organized and stored in small plastic containers. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

FUEL HOSE OVERHAUL

With the deck off there is excellent access to all fuel lines--a good opportunity to inspect and replace them. Older fuel lines manufactured before c.1990 were not rated to survive with gasoline diluted with alcohol. The alcohol in today's gasoline fuel is harmful to the rubber in older hoses. Its effects were seen. We found the inner wall of the fuel filler hose had separated and was folded over, constricting the inside of the filler hose. Previously when adding fuel there was backflow up the filler hose even though the tank was not full. I thought it was caused by a poor vent, but now I know I was wrong. It was the collapsed fuel filler line.

Figure 41. The fuel filler hose had a steel coil inside which had rusted. The hose had delaminated and was constricting the filler line. It was also soft and permeable, leaking fuel into the compartment. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Although there were no visible cuts or holes in it, the original fuel hose had deteriorated to the point where fuel was seeping from the filler hose into the foam. The new fuel filler hose was very expensive but worth it. The vent hose was also replaced.

Figure 42. New filler hose and vent hose were installed. A self-etching paint primer (the gray patches) was used to re-coat up any surface that looked even the slightest bit corroded. Note the loop above the vent to inhibit ingress of seawater. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

FUEL TANK CAVITY SUMP PUMP

We decided to integrate a sump pump into the fuel tank cavity to remove any water that would accumulate in the fuel tank cavity in the future. To accomplish this we removed foam in the area from the stern of the tank to the hull bulkhead, creating a well to collect water. In spite of being open and drying for some time, to our surprise, there were still gallons of water in the foam which flowed into the well we created.

Figure 43. Finally a picture of me, working! A saw helps to remove some foam. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 45. My Dad and I created a tool for removing the foam. It is a heavy duty paint scraper on a threaded broom handle. It worked great! Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 46. Foam was removed at the stern of the fuel tank to create a well or sump for water to accumulate and be removed. Existing water in the foam seeped into this well and was removed, again and again, until the fuel tank cavity was finally dried. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 47. Fuel tank cavity well depth sounder. Yes, water does move through closed cell foam. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 48. A wet/dry vacuum removes more water. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 49. Finally, dry, clean foam. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

With the fuel tank cavity dried and the new well created and cleaned, we bought a self-priming SUREFLOW pump to draw water out of the cavity and exhaust it overboard. The pump is installed in the center console. The pick-up was made from PVC pipe mounted to a piece of mahogany on the rear bulkhead above the new well. Clear hose connects the pick-up to the pump.

Figure 51. A water pick up was fashioned from PVC pipe. Clear hose leads forward to the console where a pump will be located. Photo Credit: Peter Dunster

Figure 54. New through-hull fittings were installed to exhaust overboard the the front compartment sump pump and the new fuel cavity pump. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM UPGRADES

The boat's batteries had been previously been moved to the console from the stern, but the voltage drop in the existing sytem was so great the motor would barely turn over even with a full charge. The batteries were moved back to their original location. New primary wiring and a new GUEST battery selector switch were installed. The motor battery leads were re-done, too.

Figure 55. The batteries were moved back to their original location in the stern and new primary wiring installed. Photo Credit: Peter Dunster

Figure 56. The GUEST OFF-1-BOTH-2 primary battery switch was installed on the starboard inwale. That's the SHUREFLOW pump for the fuel cavity well sitting on the deck. Photo Credit: Peter Dunster

RE-INSTALLATION OF REPAIRED DECK

With all the under-the-floor repairs and improvements completed, it was time for a test fit of the new deck. First, we needed to cut the hole over the rigging tunnel at the console end of the deck. This hole wasn't cut into the new reinforcement wood prior to laminating it to the deck.

Figure 57. Cutting hole for rigging at console. This area was re-sealed with resin after the cut. The other round hole you see to my father's right really goes no where so we decided not to re-cut it. This area of the deck is covered by the center console. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 58. The stern cockpit well cover appears slightly warped. This was probably because we just re-glassed it and did not replace its reinforcement wood. It may have warped when it dried. This was fixed by placing shims under it to flatten it out. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 59. The restored deck back in place. Looks and fits great! Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Figure 60. The old OMC 235-HP outboard was repainted to just add a nice touch to the restoration project. It is starting to look like a new boat again. Photo Credit: Jeff Rohlfing

Thanks to Peter Dunster and John Flook for sending me their pictures so I could fill in the gaps in the work.

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Author: Jeff Rohlfing
This article first appeared July 10, 2004.