CONTINUOUSWAVE

I have somehow been recently pulled down the rabbit hole of classic Boston Whalers while pondering the next boat for our family of four in the in the Puget Sound area.

The pricing I have been seeing [for classic-era Boston Whaler OUTRAGE and REVENGE boats] is—quite frankly—outrageous.

Q1: on the west coast do Boston Whaler classic era boats sell at outrageous prices?

Q2: I know Boston Whaler boats tend to hold their value but is asking $20,000 for a boat that obviously needs new power delusional?

Q3: ultimately do buyers pay outrageous or delusional prices for used Boston Whaler boats?

Q4: would looking for [a used Boston Whaler that was re-powered with] a five-year-old engine be the best [buy]?

I am trying to gauge just how desirable these boats really are.

BACKSTORY
I looked at a 1981 Revenge recently, but I decided it needed too much work and had too many unknowns to purchase it.

Now I see a 1988 Outrage Cuddy available not too far away. It looks well kept but the engines are original to the boat. The seller is asking $19,500

But then again maybe this is the worst combination to find. Good running two-stroke on a good hull. The old timer that has run it for years can't imagine why someone would want new power.Perhaps best to look for a 5 years old repower?

Thanks for entertaining the questions. These boats are cool. There is something about them.

Boston Whaler OUTRAGE and REVENGE models were made in several hull lengths. Without knowing the actual models you think are “outrageously” priced, to assess your estimate of their value is impossible.

Beautifully maintained Boston Whaler OUTRAGE and REVENGE models have been sold for much higher prices than you mention.

Historically, Boston Whaler boats were more often sold in the eastern seacoast states and on the Great Lakes than they were in the Pacific Northwest. That skewed distribution may result in higher prices in your area.

If you would like to actually encounter outrageous boat prices, look at new Boston Whaler boats. Some models are being sold for more than $1,000,000.

Regarding older "engines" (as you mentioned in one of your cited used boat offers): in the 1980's and even into the 1990's having twin engines on boats in the 20 to 25-foot range was common. There were two reasons for that. The largest engines available were often 150-HP models, and on 25-foot hulls more power was necessary. Also the reliability of outboard engines was not great back then, and if the boat were to be used in large open waters, having a second engine was seen as a safe approach to going out in big water.

That some older and larger Boston Whaler boats were rigged with twin engines tends to actually reduce their selling price. The cost to re-power a boat that needs twin engines with two modern outboard engines is truly "outrageous." Modern and very reliable engines are now available in the 200 to 300-HP range, and could be a less expensive option for re-powering a boat that had, say, twin 150-HP engines.

Thanks for the reply.

The current [used Boston Whaler classic-era boat] that has caught my eye is a 1988 Outrage 22 Cuddy. It has a storage cover and a Bimini that is not pictured in the ad. The seller seems like an honest guy. He says he has stored it indoors since he has owned it. It does have bottom paint.

This boat has a single engine Johnson 225 oil-injected motor. He says it runs great and I believe him.

Q5: for re-powering a 1988 OUTRAGE CUDDY 22 with a four-stroke-power-cycle engine, between a 200-HP and a 225-HP which would be preferred?

JoeNorm wrote:The current [used Boston Whaler classic-era boat] that has caught my eye is a 1988 Outrage 22 Cuddy.

I will offer some comments on the prospective boat purchase, mostly based on my purchase about 20-years ago of a 1990 22-foot hull powered by an Evinrude 225-HP engine.

First, I recommend you visit the WHALER section of the website, then the REFERENCE section, and finally the 22-foot hull section:

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/22Outrage/

Reading the reference article will give you some background on the hull and models available.

The OUTRAGE CUDDY variation may be a good choice for you because it affords a cuddy cabin that can allow some weather protection, a place for safe storage, and a private marine head. A head is a good option for family boating, as being on a boat seems to induce the need to use a bathroom in many family members.

Powering with a single 225-HP engine is very good choice. The boat top speed should exceed 40-MPH.

Regarding a c.1988 Johnson 225-HP engine: this a very well proven 3.3-liter V6 engine. I will comment further in a separate reply.

Since the boat is garage kept it must be on a trailer. A proper trailer would be a two-axle trailer rated for about 5,200-lbs load. A trailer in good condition could save you from buying a new trailer for $5,000 or more.

ASIDE
Towing a 22-footer is going to require a tow vehicle than can handle the weight of the boat with all its gear and fuel on the trailer. I would not try towing unless the tow vehicle is rated for towing more than 5,000-lbs. Boats on trailers always weigh much more than you think they will. If you don't own a suitable vehicle (and SUV or a truck), you need to think about that aspect of owning a trailerable boat.

In term of price and value, there are many elements other than the actual boat hull, engine, and trailer that affect the value. Here is a short list:

• Canvas accessories: mooring covers, weather canvas, flying top or Bimini, storage covers, etc., can add tremendous value. A proper set of weather canvas and mooring covers could now cost $3,000 to $4,000. If the boat has all necessary canvas in good condition, that is a bit plus;
• the general condition of the hull and cockpit gel coat with no oxidation, a good lustre, and a good wax top coat; lack of any damage or shoddy repairs, lack of a lot of screw fastener holes holding old gear that you don't want--all will add significant value and save you a lot of work.
• presence of anti-fouling paint is generally NOT an asset if the boat will be kept on a trailer when not in use; also bottom paint can hide damage or repairs to the bottom, so make a very careful inspection;
• some accessories can add more value, such as
  • the type of seating and upholstery, with the Reversible Pilot Seat at the helm and a wrap-around upholstered seat in the aft cockpit
  • the presence of teak wood gunwales instead of fiberglass molded gunwales (and 1998 would be right about the time when wood gunwales were still available)--if you like the yacht look of the wood;
  • hydraulic steering
  • good anchor tackle
  • proper mooring lines and fenders;
  • stainless steel propeller and spare propeller

There could be many thousands of dollars of added (or detracted) value in the details of a particular boat and its total package.

Boat electronic accessories from c.1988 like a VHF Marine Band radio, a chart plotter, and a SONAR are probably not extremely valuable, but if they all work properly they are better than no accessories. The value will depend on exactly what brand and model of electronics is aboard.

The Johnson 225-HP engine from c.1988 could be a very nice engine. I recommend you inquire about the sort of gasoline fuel that has been used. This engine (and the boat fuel system) are probably NOT very tolerant of ethanol-gasoline blended fuels. Here in Michigan state law requires that non-ethanol 90-Octane gasoline fuel be available for use on boats. Avoiding all diluted gasoline with 10-percent (or higher) ethanol content is very highly recommended to avoid problems with outboard engines designed and manufactured before the ethanol dilution craze took over the USA in the 2000's (due to the farm lobby and ethanol producers political influence, not from actual science).

I list of a few minor problems I encountered with my OMC 225 V6:

• intermittent starter solenoid (fixed for $23)
• intermittent ignition Power Pack (fixed for $225)
• leaking fuel line vacuum sensor (fixed for less than $50)
• fuel-oil automatic mixing pump (VRO) replacement (about $300)

Also a c.1988 engine will have the older red Amphenol rubber body connector wiring harness, which has been obsolete since c.1996.

When this V6 two-stroke-power-cycle carburetor engine is in proper tune, and its simple engine ignition controller is working properly, and the fuel line is properly primed using a working primer bulb, the engine should start from cold typically on the first crank-over (or second), run at fast idle until operating temperature is reached, and produce some smoke in the exhaust--primarily depending on what type and grade of two-stroke TCW oil was being used. Using a synthetic oil can reduce smoke in the exhaust significantly.

The fuel economy at cruising speeds and faster was reasonably good, generally over 2-MPG. The only drawback to this six-cylinder six-carburetor two-stroke-power-cycle engine regarding fuel use was at slow speed operation. The fuel economy at no-wake speeds was worse than at cruise. It is just the nature of these engines to waste a lot of gasoline idling along.

The notion that if you re-power with a modern engine you will recover the cost of the new engine in savings from reduced gasoline usage is not likely to work out for you, unless you run the boat hundreds of hours every year, and you buy gasoline at very expensive marina fuel docks at ridiculous prices. This outcome is due to the cost of a new engine, which often required thousands of dollars in new controls, new gauges, new propeller, new engine harness, and labor for the changeover and installation. A new 200 to 225 engine will cost well over $20,000 installed and rigged—if not more. You will have to do a helluva lot of boating to recover $20,000 in saved gasoline purchases.

If you MUST get a modern engine, you should try to buy one already on a boat, like you hypothesized perhaps five-years-old or newer.

JoeNorm wrote:Q5: for re-powering a 1988 OUTRAGE CUDDY 22 with a four-stroke-power-cycle engine, between a 200-HP and a 225-HP which would be preferred?

In some brands their 200-HP engine is a four-cylinder in-line, and the 225-HP is a larger displacement V6. The V6 should be the better fit.

If there is a V6 200-HP model, and there is significant cost savings compared to buying the same V6 block rated at 225-HP, then the 200- HP V6 might be an option.