CONTINUOUSWAVE

I am looking for a Boston Whaler boat in the range of 20 to 22-feet. A 1996 Dauntless with one owner is available. Anything I should be cautious about when I see it?

[This thread has been split away from another that was discussing a different range of Boston Whaler boat models that might be purchased--jimh]

Lady--your topic [has been split to] a new thread so we don't mix two conversations together.

I don't know anything specific about a 1996-model-year Boston Whaler DAUNTLESS boats that would be particularly important to watch for when buying a used model. But that's not to say that someone else will know something important. But please tell us which model. Are you looking at a 1996 DAUNTLESS 20?

Boston Whaler boats are not like automobiles, in two senses. FIrst, they don't tend to change a great deal from year to year in their design or construction. And there are not detailed surveys of owners to provide data about repairs. Thus it is almost impossible to say that a certain model in a certain year will be likely to have a certain flaw, unless it is really a glaring deficiency.

The same general advice in buying a used Boston Whaler would apply as is given here:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/buying.html

When buying a used boat with an outboard engine and a trailer--a typical package for used Boston Whaler boats--the boat is generally the most durable element of the package. Outboard engines are less durable, and a trailer can be quite a problem.

The boat's present condition has the most influence on value. The boat should have all the original components: the seats, the hatches, the railings, the navigation lighting, the various little components that will be hard to replace if missing, and so on. Owner add-on component may or may not add value. A poorly installed non-OEM canvas set can be useful, but might not be as valuable as OEM canvas. Electronic devices age rapidly. Too many add-on devices often means a lot of holes to be filled when you remove them.

Outboard engines are hard to assess unless you know their history, their maintenance, and their tendencies. Since you give no information about the outboard engine on the boat you are assessing, no advice can be offered, as it would be unnecessarily broad to offer suggestions about all possible outboard engines you might find on that boat's transom. Tell us what engine you may be buying and more advice can be given.

Trailers can be problems, particularly if they were seldom used. A trailer that has been sitting unused outdoors may need new tires, new brakes, new carpet on the bunks, new straps on the winch and hold downs--a lot of investment in small items that could add up to a lot of expense. A trailer that is used often to launch and load the boat will likely be in better condition that one than has been sitting for a decade unused.

I owned a 1996 20' Dauntless with a 200 Johnson which was ample power for that hull, though I often see them for sale and powered with a 175 Mercury. Here are the specs for that model year:

Length 19' 8"
Beam 8' 4"
Draft 15"
Dry Weight 2350
Swamp Capacity 4800
Persons Capacity 9
Fuel Capacity 87
Max HP 225
Min HP 130
Engine Shaft 25"

The 1996 20" Dauntless is a bit stern heavy so you can expect water to come thru the side scuppers which I found annoying. You can also expect some gelcoat cracks but likely nothing to be alarmed about as gelcoat cracks were very common with that model year. (Feel free to post pics if you have concerns).

I also found the top of the gunwale uncomfortable to sit on as it is not flat, rather it's contoured to shed water to the outside of the hull. Be sure to check-out the cushions carefully as replacements have become pricey over the past few years. Some folks just leave them on the boat and the snaps become corroded and difficult to unsnap. I've never seen a 20' Dauntless with decent cushions....--I laugh aloud--...

The 1996 20' Dauntless had a ski pylon option and although the pylon frame may be present, often the pylon is missing and the original manufacturer no longer produces it, it's Swiveleze part # 92833. The frame also supports a tackle station, so your vessel may have either, both, or neither. You may get lucky here since you're dealing with the original owner.

The 1996 20 Dauntless is relatively light compared to it's 2000 21' Ventura successor which weighs in at 3300 lbs. I found that the 21 Ventura rode thru the water while the 20' Dauntless rode on top of the water, so the 21 Ventura ride was a bit smoother and the 20 Dauntless was a bit quicker and more agile.

Overall it was a very well designed boat and the bow area and deck space is actually larger than that of the 21 Ventura. Thumbs up!

I've had a [1996] 20 Dauntless for about 10 years, and we love it. It came with a 175-HP Johnson Oceanrunner and I repowered it two years ago with a 175-HP Evinrude ETEC. It's a great boat for running around in moderate ocean chop and does a great job pulling waterskiers and tubes.

I agree about the gel coat cracks: my boat has a quite a few spider cracks, but purely cosmetic.

Probably my biggest concern [in buying a used Boston Whaler 20 DAUNTLESS boat] would be the power: if the [aforementioned 1996 boat that is being considered for purchase] still has its original 20-year-old engine, you're probably looking at a re-power in the near future. If it has already been re-powered, I'd be careful if someone hung a heavy four-stroke engine on the transom. That boat was designed for a light two-stroke and, like all 20-foot boats, is very sensitive to weight distribution, and that's why I went with a two-stroke on my re-power.

Good luck.

Thanks to all for the good advice offered to LADY'. I just hope LADY' wll come back to the thread to read the several very interesting replies from owners of the 20 DAUNTLESS.