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[What is a source of] four-inch black KING Starboard risers for a Reversible Pilot Seat?

Also, tell me how to securely mount the risers to the deck.

Most RPS risers are homemade. I am not aware of a particular product made commercially for this application.

An RPS riser is usually made from laminated wood in about 1-inch thickness. The lower one or two planks fasten to the deck. The upper one or two planks fasten to the lower planks. The console fastens to the upper planks.

Back in the 2000's I made a set of risers for 1987 Montauk.

Being economical, I went out and purchased a 2 x6 x 8-inch Trex composite decking board. I recall the nominal (actual) thickness was more like 1-3/4.

Using hand held power tools, I cut rectangular blocks slightly wider and longer than the RPS leg base.

For my height, 6-feet 2-inches, I determined I wanted four boards stacked. (Note: the kids hated the new height.)

I screwed the first board into the deck using the existing deck holes, recessing the screw head.

I screwed the second and thirrd boards into the first board in locations other than above factory screw locations.

I screwed the RPS legs and the fourth board into the 2nd and 3rd board using the RPS leg screw hole locations.

If I were to do it again, I would buy a laminate a few teak blocks to form one block and use really long lag screws.
Better yet, get a woodworker to make it for me.

The alternative style that is very popular is wood blocks and a top plank. This design is also used for the console.
Below are two photos showing this style that was created by LHG. I have copied the photos from his photobucket album since that site is full of bloatware, popups etc.

If you are dead set on using starboard, I would contact Ray Martin of Martin Marine Design. He CNC's starboard for custom client platforms and could whip up a set. http://www.martinmarinedesign.com

What is the height of the risers shown above?

Thank you all. I am going to continue looking at this. I only prefer Starboard as there is currently no wood on my 91-foot [probably means 1991] model. Thanks for the thoughts.

VKR wrote:What is the height of the risers shown above?

There are four planks visible in the risers seen in Figures 1 and 2. I would assume the thickness of the planks is about 1-inch. The riser is then about 4-inch in height. If the planks are thicker than 1-inch, then the riser is taller.

The height of a rise for a center console that is best for a particular helmsman is related to the height of the helmsman. If you are about six-feet two-inches, then a four-inch riser is workable. The height of a riser that is made by stacking planks will be adjustable based on the number of planks and their thickness.

Regarding one of the risers shown above, I have operated that boat and I found the seat height was a bit tall for me. I am five-feet ten-inches tall. Larry, the owner of the boat, is about six-feet two-inches tall. I have also driven other boats whose center console and RPS were not raised, and I found them quite comfortable, although perhaps just a bit lower than optimum.

There is a theory--not proven--that the height of the RPS and the console in the MONTAUK was determined by Bob Dougherty, the head of design at Boston Whaler at that time. Bob's own height was about five-feet eight-inches by my estimate (which is based on meeting Bob and spending quite a bit of time chatting with him at a major boat show many years ago).

Perhaps a formula to calculate the necessary riser height in a Boston Whaler boat designed by Bob Dougherty would be to subtract five-feet eight-inches from your height, and make the riser equal to that dimension.

Since PHIL T is about the same height at Larry, both around six-feet two-inches, and since both used four-inch risers, perhaps the formula should be to subtract five-feet ten-inches from your height to find the proper riser height.

The advantage of making the riser from 1-inch planks is that you can later raise or lower the riser by adding or removing one plank.

As for going higher than a four-inch riser, I would begin to have some doubts about the overall mechanical integrity of the fastening of the console or seat base to the deck. The higher the console or riser is raised, the greater the moment of any force on the console or seat to tip it over. As long as most of the force on the riser is completely downward, you could make the riser very tall. But at some point there will be lateral forces.

Thanks. Good information again. The only reason I am doing this is to gain storage areas by adding a 72-quart cooler under RPS. There are few storage options on this model [which is never identified in this discussion except as a 91-foot model which was probably intended to be a 1991 model--jimh].
Thanks

Jay -

I have seen somewhere, an owner fabricated risers out of aluminum. He welded up a custom I beam. He bolted the leg into the top of the I and into the floor using screws from the bottom of the I.

I recall he did it to allow stowing a 56 qt cooler with cushion under the RPS.

I found a thread where LHG states his risers are 6"

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005345.html

From a fellow Outrage 17 owner:

The previous owner of my Outrage 17 made [risers from] black fibre-reinforced plastic (FRP) channels and angles bought from McMaster-Carr and jointed with stainless steel [machine screws]. [The risers] turned out nicely, By raising the RPS by three-nches a 72 quart Igloo cooler can fit under it.

Phil- Thank you. I like the design there as it looks like it would secure the cooler much better than the traditional bungee/handle method. IS this still your Outrage? If so, I might ask for some additional pics of the joinery--which is really nice, and three-feet looks perfect.

As I said, not my Outrage 17.

I do know the owner and will reach out and see what he has.

I used a combination of riser material for the console and seat; Starboard for the seat (three one inch sections) and four, one inch sections of oak for the console. The console riser sections were epoxy laminated, then painted to match the console. I had seen Larry's beautiful job, and I didn't want to be on my hands and knees every year during off season, re-varnishing and covering the inevitable bumps and scratches gained over the season.




The Starboard risers are secured to the deck with long machine screws. The console risers are secured using counter sunk wood screws and 5200. The console is attached to the risers also with wood screws, more than the company used.

Regarding the height of the seat. It's personal pref, but you don't want your feet dangling.

My friend actually bought the boat with the risers from CW member KDW. The boat has been sold two times since this was originally posted in 2011.

Here is the thread:http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/012992.html

Kenny Wyndham (KDW) [made the risers] out of FRP (I think it's Fiber Reinforced Plastic) C-channels and square tubing brought from McMaster-Carr and secured together with SS hardware



I managed to find one more photo on his photobucket site.

The risers shown above are all very functional and have a nice appearance. But my all-time first choice for how to make a riser are these two examples from Jerry--a real carpenter. His tapered bases are really the most stylish.


Fig. 7. Tapered wood varnished console and seat risers from SPOUTER, Jerry's very fine OUTRAGE 22 boat.

ASIDE: Jerry passed away several years ago. I think his boat SPOUTER ended up being owned by his nephew.

The risers made by Larry all had straight cuts. I don't think Larry owned any carpentry tools, and he had all the lumber cut at the lumber yard. His designs were crafty because they were all square cuts. Anything made from wood on Larry's boats gets eight coats of varnish--and retouched frequently to hide scratches.

Don--your aversion to piano high-gloss finish on the risers is probably a good choice. They are going to absorb some bumps and kicks.