CONTINUOUSWAVE

[Moved to THE GAM for discussion, as this topic is more about the decision to repair and restore rather than the work in restoration.]

In 2022 I bought my first boat, a 1969 Boston Whaler 13-footer with its original Chrysler 45-HP engine and the original trailer. The boat is in decent condition for its age [of of 54-yearrs-old], but it has some dings and needs some work. It looks like the boat has been only in fresh water and was stored in a barn since c.2000. With three people, I was able to lift the boat easily, so I think it is not waterlogged.





I want to fix -up the boat, but I am apprehensive about restoring it with sub-par products. I have a full automotive style sprayer and I feel like I should paint the boat like a I would paint a fiberglass car: with a high quality paint with a hardener--not some kind of roll-on job. I have painted cars before and have all the equipment and expertise needed for such application.

I am just confused about paint or gelcoat for this boat application.

Q1: should the boat be left as-is and just run the boat, and only minor fiberglass repairs be done?

Q2: will restoring this 1969 13-footer ruin the boat as a time capsule example of the classic Boston Whaler boat?

Q3: should only the white hull be painted and the blue interior be left unrestored?

Q4: what path [or method] for repainting the underside of the hull is recommended?

Q5: are products made by TOTAL BOAT what everyone recommends to repaint the underside of the hull?

ASIDE: This is my first post.

Larger images with more scenic backgrounds can be seen at
http://c3fab.com/repo/dllhost_2023-04-27_21-56-13.png
http://c3fab.com/repo/dllhost_2023-04-27_21-55-26.jpg

caseyl wrote:I am just confused about paint or gelcoat for this boat application.

I don't have any experience is applying an entirely new layer of gel coat resin as a top coat. My expectation is that you would not be able to get the thickness and smoothness in the gel coat as exists now. The existing gel coat was applied as the first layer into a contact female mold for the hull part and could be easily built up in thickness. Nor would you get the strength of the original primary bond between the gel coat layer and the subsequent laminate layers that was created as those layers cured together. Spraying all new gel coat onto the existing hull would probably mean a lot of sanding and smoothing, and perhaps more than one coat in order to build up the gel coat layer to the usual 0.020-inch or greater thickness.

caseyl wrote:Q1: should the boat be left as-is and just run the boat, and only minor fiberglass repairs be done?

From the two images provided, this 54-year-old 13-footer appears to be in really good condition. If there are minor dings in the hull, you can easily repair them. Generally the gel coat on a Boston Whaler boat can be restored to a very good finish, rather than completely eliminating the original top coat and covering with paint.

For some guidance on restoring a really old 13-footer, see this article from the FAQ:

Q5: how is damage to a Unibond hull repaired?
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q5

If the damage is minor and can be repairs with just a bit of resin and a small area of gel coat, you should be able to get a very good, very low visibility repair. Also, often the hull damage is to areas that are underwater, so no one can really see the repairs except when the boat is on the trailer.

Also see this CETACEA page:
Grandfather's Whaler
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetac ... age51.html

caseyl wrote:Q2: will restoring this 1969 13-footer ruin the boat as a time capsule example of the classic Boston Whaler boat?

In my opinion, there would be more interest in the boat with its original gel coat restored to a nice shine compared to having the original finish covered with a new paint finish. Before deciding which path, try restoring a small area of the original gel coat finish. Very lightly wet sand the gel coat with 800-grit, but go easy--54-year-old gel coat can be removed extremely rapidly with any aggressive abrasion; apply a gel coat restoring compound which will restore some oils into the gel coat; apply a high-gloss polish and buff to high lustre; and then apply wax. See if the result is acceptable for your concept of a restoration.

caseyl wrote:Q3: should only the white hull be painted and the blue interior be left unrestored?

Again, I would favor attempting to make a few spot repairs to the hull and bringing back the original gel coat to a nice finish

caseyl wrote:Q4: what path [or method] for repainting the underside of the hull is recommended?

If you decide to abandon the original gel coat finish on the hull, then you must abrade the hull to give the new paint a surface that it can attach itself. Once you take sandpaper to the gel coat, you will not be able to alter you restoration; you will be committed to an entirely new top coat surface. Also the surface to receive the paint must be perfectly smooth and fair. You cannot sand out any paint defects or fill low spots with paint. The preparation must be immaculate.

caseyl wrote:Q5: are products made by TOTAL BOAT what everyone recommends to repaint the underside of the hull?

In the last ten years or so the TotalBoat company has become very prominent for their boat products, such as epoxy resins, fillers, and two-part paints. I have no idea if everyone would recommend them, but there is certainly no reason to avoid them. On the other hand, if you wanted the highest-quality boat paint finish, you would look at much more expensive products like AWLGRIP.

caseyl wrote:ASIDE: This is my first post.

Welcome to the forum.

caseyl wrote:Larger images with more scenic backgrounds can be seen at
http://c3fab.com/repo/dllhost_2023-04-27_21-56-13.png
http://c3fab.com/repo/dllhost_2023-04-27_21-55-26.jpg

Where in New England were those photographs taken?

That looks like a nice Sport 13. I believe it will look better and be more desirable to a future Classic Boston Whaler aficionado than a refinished, restored 13. Our 1981 Sport 13 is all original except for a four stroke engine and has a few dings and some spider cracks. It looks good if not perfect and garners a lot of compliments at the launch ramp. The day we bought the boat after a water test we were driving home and stopped for fuel. A gentleman offered to buy it on the spot for slightly more than we had just paid.

Another factor in a c.1969 13-footer is the notched transom, which needs an engine designed for a 15-inch shaft height.

I hope that the Chrysler engine is a short-shaft or 15-inch shaft model. There are not many modern engines being made in 15-inch shaft height in 2023.

Also, keeping the c.1969 engine on the boat will enhance the appeal as a restored classic boat. But that all depends if the engine runs well, and that is an entirely different topic. I just wanted to let you know about the 15-inch notched transom on your old 13-footer.

Also, be sure you carefully read the REFERENCE article on the 13-foot hull at

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/13/

Before you go one step further on painting, DETAIL the boat.

If you don't have shiny gelcoat, you have oxidation. A detail will remove oxidation. Once you have detailed the boat, then consider what to do or not to do.

Watch this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAjvMb309BI