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Time for drain tubes

Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 11:51 am
by biggiefl
Just bought my 1986 18' Outrage and want to replace the tubes.

What size are the three stern splash well drain tubes?

My plugs are way too small for them. They almost fit inside, the whole pug, not the rubber part.

How long is the stern tube that is inside the rigging tunnel cover?

That one is a normal diameter, just not sure about lengh.

Is there somebody in Tampa Bay area who does drain tube replacement on Boston Whaler boats?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 8:27 pm
by grizzly
The tubing is 1.25-inches (diameter) for the three stern drain tubes. The other two (in the sump at the aft starboard end of the internal fuel tank and in the bow anchor locker) are both 1-inch.

I am not sure on their length, but none is longer than 12 inches and more likely 3 to 5-inches.

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:52 am
by biggiefl
Thanks.

Who sells the 1.25 tubes and plugs?

If I run the 225 gonna need to keep plugs in.

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:14 pm
by Phil T
McMaster - Carr
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-metal-structural-tubes


Brass Tubing:
1 inch OD. x .032 wall thickness x 3 feet long = #8950K792
1 1/4 inch OD. x .032 wall thickness x 3 feet long = #8950K832

Part numbers for O-rings:
O-ring - 1 inch tubes = #9557K482 (size=dash 213) ($4.59 pack of 50)
O-ring -1 1/4 inch tubes = #9557K486 (size=dash 217) ($4.97 pack of 50)

Drain plug 1,25" diameter https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-Twist-Turn-1-25-Inch-Marine-Neoprene/dp/B002IZHF08?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B002IZHF08

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2019 10:15 am
by biggiefl
Are they just regular O-rings? If so I probably have them.

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2019 11:22 am
by biggiefl
Sue has them in stock for like $10-each plus O-rings. They want $50 for the spreader tool which is different for the 1.25 than the 1.00.

Are we still still doing the community spreader tool thing here?

Does anyone have a 1.25" tool I can borrow?

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Sat Jul 27, 2019 7:09 am
by jimh
See the FAQ for more information on brass drain tube replacement.

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:53 am
by biggiefl
Does anyone have a crimper/spreader tool for the 1.25" tubes?

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 11:49 am
by biggiefl
I ordered one off E-Bay.

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 11:59 am
by biggiefl
Sue Lodel says the tubes for the 1986 18' Outrage are 1.25x3" does this sound correct?

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 8:57 am
by TFrere
I decided to replace the three transom drain tubes on my 1985 15’ Sport after reading all of the posts about drain tubes. I thought since my boat is in such good shape that the drain tubes would probably be okay. I was wrong and I am glad I replaced them. The two upper tubes on the splash well were slightly corroded but really could have lasted for a while longer. The 14” long tube that drains the hull was badly corroded. When I collapsed the outboard end to drive it through, that end broke free about 1” from the outboard end. I had to use a piece of 7/8” stainless tubing to drive it through to the bilge side. It was severely corroded and near failure. The foam in the hull was dry so I know it had not corroded to the point of leaking into the hull.
If I had not been reading this forum I would never have known this would be a problem. Thanks to all the experienced folks posting here.

Re: Time for drain tubes

Posted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 11:06 am
by Sifd324
I have a couple of post classics 2006 130 Sport and 2000 180 Dauntless that I replaced the drain tubes with stainless thru hulls. On these the drain tubes are plastic and a couple were cracking. I have had a few classics but stuck with the copper replacements so I don’t know if it is an option.
For the stainless replacements, I used Gemlux and cut to fit. I put the finished ends where they were the most visible. Personally I prefer the OEM on classics, but I have looked at a lot of classic Montauks that have been so heavily modified that I would not consider them as a classic.