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Author Topic:   Vance Jack Plate

floatinghat posted 09-26-2007 10:51 PM ET (US)
I will be putting [a Vance jack plate] on a 1977 Montauk which will soon be powered buy a 70-HP [Johnson four-stroke] I've seen [the model JPL-]4000 and [the model JPL-]4550. I know some are running them, [and I] just [would like to know] which plate [is recommended by readers for use on a Boston Whaler MONTAUK.]
jimh posted 09-27-2007 08:48 AM ET (US)
Your mention of a Vance jack plate sent me to GOOGLE to locate information about them, as I had previously never heard of them. I found their website at
http://www.vancemfg.com/
As I was completely unfamiliar with even the name Vance, I was similarly confused by your mention of partial model numbers, and those were meaningless to me. Perhaps other readers were similarly handicapped. I believe that your inquiry is along these lines, if I may interpret slightly:
Vance makes a manual jack plate as follows:

--JPL-4500 with a 6-inch set back
--JPL-4550 with a 10-inch set back
Which is suitable for use on a 1977 Boston Whaler MONTAUK 17?
Tohsgib posted 09-27-2007 10:49 AM ET (US)
I had Vance on my 17 and went with the 6", don't do the 10". Set her up about 4" from keel with cav plate. Get the inside bolt bar thingie as well, looks nice and spreads the stress($19).
floatinghat posted 09-27-2007 10:52 AM ET (US)
Jim, A number of list members use and have mentioned they believe the Vance jack plates are a good value. I am leaning the direction of the 5 1/2 - 6 inch Jack Plate as that seems to be what I have seen as the most common setback. That said I want to collect the experience of this board.
floatinghat posted 09-27-2007 03:01 PM ET (US)
I have ordered the JPL- 4500 6" with the transom bar.I let you know my thoughts when it comes in.
Demps posted 09-28-2007 09:50 AM ET (US)
Just installed a 6" Vance on my 1979 Montauk. Its a solid and well machined product. That said the plate blocks the splashwell drainholes on my boat slightly, due to its width. I didn't want ends of the brass through hulls compromised so the transom side of the plate had to be notched ever so slightly. You'll see what needs to be done when you get it.
One piece of advice I do have your you is to make sure the lower bolts going through the plate will make it into the splashwell. Assuming your 1977 splashwell is identical to my 1979's, the splashwell is shallow and the lower bolt holes on the plate as drilled may be too low. You might need to enlarge the holes upwards to make it work. Sure wish the folks that installed mine had thought of that before drilling (insert sad face here). Frankly, in hindsight I could have done it myself prior to repowering. Live and learn I guess.
Cheers.
Demps
Tohsgib posted 09-28-2007 10:24 AM ET (US)
If you have the blind holes in splashwell you just drill through the jackplate after you attach the top bolts...easy to drill alum. Yes mine blocked the rear drains a tad as well.
floatinghat posted 09-28-2007 10:33 AM ET (US)
The whole blind hole thing is a bit confusing. I haven't spent much time looking at them and how they function. I guess time to use the search function.

I am hoping my new engine gets shipped early next week a the latest. When I know it has shipped and t Jack plate has arrived I can start scheduling the time for the install.
Thanks for the tip on the thru hull drains, I am going to replace mine soon but was thinking that might be a Dec/Jan project along with a couple of other things.
Demps posted 09-28-2007 11:33 AM ET (US)
Another tip...good lines of communication with the installer. This was my first experience and I thought I had communicated quite clearly that I did not want new holes drilled in my transom. That's why I bought a jack plate after all. Well, I pick up the boat and new holes were drilled in the transom "to make the jack plate work". Good grief. As Tohsgib said, aluminum is easy to drill.

floatinghat posted 09-28-2007 12:13 PM ET (US)
" make sure the lower bolts going through the plate will make it into the splashwell."
My lower bolts go from the splash well out the back but I have no "lower nuts" on the engine brackets. It is my impression these are blind holes? The engine bracket has some silicone in the holes where I would expect the bolts to come out.
I don't want any additional holes drilled in the transom.
Tohsgib posted 09-28-2007 12:47 PM ET (US)
Yes your engine is in the blind holes. You will HAVE to put in new drain tubes before you mount it because you will have to remove the engine/plate to do so....easy job. Once again, when you bolt on the top bolts, use a 90 degree drill and drill out the bottom holes in the jackplate from inside the splashwell, takes a minute.

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Author	Topic: Vance Jack Plate
floatinghat	posted 09-26-2007 10:51 PM ET (US) I will be putting [a Vance jack plate] on a 1977 Montauk which will soon be powered buy a 70-HP [Johnson four-stroke] I've seen [the model JPL-]4000 and [the model JPL-]4550. I know some are running them, [and I] just [would like to know] which plate [is recommended by readers for use on a Boston Whaler MONTAUK.]
jimh	posted 09-27-2007 08:48 AM ET (US) Your mention of a Vance jack plate sent me to GOOGLE to locate information about them, as I had previously never heard of them. I found their website at http://www.vancemfg.com/ As I was completely unfamiliar with even the name Vance, I was similarly confused by your mention of partial model numbers, and those were meaningless to me. Perhaps other readers were similarly handicapped. I believe that your inquiry is along these lines, if I may interpret slightly: Vance makes a manual jack plate as follows: --JPL-4500 with a 6-inch set back --JPL-4550 with a 10-inch set back Which is suitable for use on a 1977 Boston Whaler MONTAUK 17?
Tohsgib	posted 09-27-2007 10:49 AM ET (US) I had Vance on my 17 and went with the 6", don't do the 10". Set her up about 4" from keel with cav plate. Get the inside bolt bar thingie as well, looks nice and spreads the stress($19).
floatinghat	posted 09-27-2007 10:52 AM ET (US) Jim, A number of list members use and have mentioned they believe the Vance jack plates are a good value. I am leaning the direction of the 5 1/2 - 6 inch Jack Plate as that seems to be what I have seen as the most common setback. That said I want to collect the experience of this board.
floatinghat	posted 09-27-2007 03:01 PM ET (US) I have ordered the JPL- 4500 6" with the transom bar.I let you know my thoughts when it comes in.
Demps	posted 09-28-2007 09:50 AM ET (US) Just installed a 6" Vance on my 1979 Montauk. Its a solid and well machined product. That said the plate blocks the splashwell drainholes on my boat slightly, due to its width. I didn't want ends of the brass through hulls compromised so the transom side of the plate had to be notched ever so slightly. You'll see what needs to be done when you get it. One piece of advice I do have your you is to make sure the lower bolts going through the plate will make it into the splashwell. Assuming your 1977 splashwell is identical to my 1979's, the splashwell is shallow and the lower bolt holes on the plate as drilled may be too low. You might need to enlarge the holes upwards to make it work. Sure wish the folks that installed mine had thought of that before drilling (insert sad face here). Frankly, in hindsight I could have done it myself prior to repowering. Live and learn I guess. Cheers. Demps
Tohsgib	posted 09-28-2007 10:24 AM ET (US) If you have the blind holes in splashwell you just drill through the jackplate after you attach the top bolts...easy to drill alum. Yes mine blocked the rear drains a tad as well.
floatinghat	posted 09-28-2007 10:33 AM ET (US) The whole blind hole thing is a bit confusing. I haven't spent much time looking at them and how they function. I guess time to use the search function. I am hoping my new engine gets shipped early next week a the latest. When I know it has shipped and t Jack plate has arrived I can start scheduling the time for the install. Thanks for the tip on the thru hull drains, I am going to replace mine soon but was thinking that might be a Dec/Jan project along with a couple of other things.
Demps	posted 09-28-2007 11:33 AM ET (US) Another tip...good lines of communication with the installer. This was my first experience and I thought I had communicated quite clearly that I did not want new holes drilled in my transom. That's why I bought a jack plate after all. Well, I pick up the boat and new holes were drilled in the transom "to make the jack plate work". Good grief. As Tohsgib said, aluminum is easy to drill.
floatinghat	posted 09-28-2007 12:13 PM ET (US) " make sure the lower bolts going through the plate will make it into the splashwell." My lower bolts go from the splash well out the back but I have no "lower nuts" on the engine brackets. It is my impression these are blind holes? The engine bracket has some silicone in the holes where I would expect the bolts to come out. I don't want any additional holes drilled in the transom.
Tohsgib	posted 09-28-2007 12:47 PM ET (US) Yes your engine is in the blind holes. You will HAVE to put in new drain tubes before you mount it because you will have to remove the engine/plate to do so....easy job. Once again, when you bolt on the top bolts, use a 90 degree drill and drill out the bottom holes in the jackplate from inside the splashwell, takes a minute.