2006 210 VENTURA Broken Scupper

[pred02]

Figures 1 and 2 show a broken scupper valve from my 2006 210 VENTURA.

Fig. 1. In my hand is the portion of the scupper valve that broke off.

scupperValve.jpg (35.26 KiB) Viewed 17127 times

Fig. 2. The transom of the boat showing the scupper drain in comparison to the waterline, which appears to be about halfway up the drain outlet.

hull.jpg (18.33 KiB) Viewed 17127 times

Q1: how serious a threat to the hull foam is a broken scupper on a 2006 210 VENTURA?

Q2: is continued use of the boat for a couple more weeks okay?

I don't want to cause permanent damage to the boat, but we have just a few weeks left to the boating season.

BACKSTORY
The plastic material of scupper on the [stern] of my 2006 210 VENTURA was so brittle that the scupper broke off in my hand. The scupper is just at the [water line of the hull]. This scupper [drains] the self-bailing [cockpit] via a black [hose] that comes from the deck.

If the water inside the boat comes in it can come in the back out. I am not worried about the return of water because the scupper is below the water line. I am worried at the point of fracture whether there is a risk that water will start to soak into the foam of the [Unibond hull]--as I have read in other threads.

To pull out the boat from the water or to get a replacement part is not easy because I am in Croatia. I can make a proper repair in 2025.

[fno]

Lucky for you the internal part of the scupper is still there in the hull. I would only be worried about where the fitting goes thru the hull for any water intrusion. Maybe put some silicone seal around the joint for a temprorary repair (good sealant, easy to remove later).

[jimh]

If worried about ingress of sea water into the Unibond hull, cover the drain opening on the transom with strong and waterproof tape, like a good quality Duct Tape. This will prevent any water from getting to the hull foam. Of course you need the hull to be dry to apply the tape. Perhaps you can find a boat lift and borrow it for a few minutes to put the tape over the drain opening on the transom. Also, you might be able to have five or six people sit on one side of the boat and cause the boat to list enough to that side to raise the scupper drain outlet above the water line so you could quickly dry it and apply the tape.

To prevent water from draining into the closed drain, cover the deck opening where the black hose you mention is connected to a deck fitting so no water can drain into the now closed scupper.

As long as you don't have torrential rain in the next two weeks, any accumulation of water in the cockpit can be removed with a sponge and a bucket.

[jimh]

The scupper valve in Figure 1 looks like it is attached with four threaded fasteners, but the view of the transom in Figure 2 does not seem to show any holes where the screws would have been located.

Also, if the scupper valve was fastened with four threaded fasteners, it is hard to imagine if could "break off" by just putting your hand on it.

[pred02]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for posting. I was able to seal the hole using below the line silicone sealant to prevent ingress as a short stop gap measure. Prior to launching next season, I will get the replacement scupper where the broken part is located.

Here is the part - as you see the screws are not to screw into the hull, but rather for the o-ring that goes around which I believe is a separate part that can be replaced.

The whole scupper:
https://www.nausetmarine.com/boston-wha ... l-scupper/

The scupper valve replacement:
https://marineengineparts.com/perko-036 ... lications/

On another thread someone identified that these break by the hose pulling and the boat bouncing. The repair does not seem like an easy fix to get those out and replace with new ones but I will deal with it next season.

https://continuouswave.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4301

https://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/004115.html

Thanks

[jimh]

Your clarification about how the flapper valve is fastened by screws to the outer face of the underwater scupper was helpful in understanding the reason there were no fastener holes seen in Figure 2 that illustrates the remaining part of the scupper on the transom under the water.

Also: in those linked discussions you mention, be aware that using 3M5200 to bed the replacement plastic scupper will make the scupper just about impossible to remove in the future. 3M5200 is a very strong adhesive. Because of the very limited access to the threaded nut on the plastic scupper, a scupper bedded and sealed in place with 3M5200 would be very difficult to remove--if even possible to remove at all.

ASIDE: see my comments about 3M5200 in an old article at

Refitting a Depth Sounder Transducer
https://continuouswave.com/maintenance-logs/newDS/

[unomas]

I was so frustrated with the cheap scuppers on my 2022 190 MONTAUK. that I replaced them with Seaworthy Model 1048 scuppers. The Seaworthy Model 1048 scupper has a stainless steel flapper. The Seaworthy Model 1048 scupper will drain very easily [compared to the original] stiff rubber scupper valve which tends to hold back water. Seaworthy Model 1048 will seals perfectly--as it should--to prevent water entering the boat.

To replace a scupper is easy. Be careful when removing the exterior portion of the original scupper and flapper housing. Leave in place the internal portion of the original scupper that goes though the transom.

[jimh]

Leave in place the internal portion of the original scupper that goes though the transom.

That advice may not be helpful in this thread because the original scupper has already broken off at the transom and must be replaced.

[Phil T]

The part that George is refererencing is actually a drain tube and scupper flap assembly. The flap portion is integrated into the aft end of the drain tube. The screws seen are to replace just the flap.

The scupper flap referenced by Unomas is just the flap and is installed over the drain tube and "secured to the boat with 3M VHB tape instead of screws"

[unomas]

Its not just the flap. Its the SS flap and the SS housing the flap is attached to. It works plus it looks better than the cheap scupper assembly that Whaler installed. Look on their website and it will explain it. Not seeing their SS flapper model 1048 but rather a flapper possibly made of hard rubber. The only "hard" part of the install is carefully cutting off the old flapper housing, leaving the tube in place. A small amount of sealant at the cutoff area is all that's needed before attaching the assembly to carefully cleaned surface.

[fno]

I looked at the Seaworthy scupper and it looks to be a superior product compared the OEM plastic scupper from Boston Whaler. It has 316 stainless steel and proper rubber flapper. One small concern: it appears that my 2005 210 Outrage which is more or less the same hull as a 2006 Ventura has 2-inch-diameter hoses going to the scupper fittings on the inboard side. The scuppers from Seaworthy are only made for 1-1/2-inch hoses.

[jimh]

I looked at the webpage for the suggested replacement scupper, but it appears to me to only be the flapper valve portion. Also, I don't understand how it is supposed to be attached with adhesive to the actual through-hull fitting for the original scupper.

Q3: is the back face of the suggested replacement scupper a flat surface?

Q4: is every other scupper ever made constructed with a flat surface which would enable the suggested replacement valvue can be attached with adhesive and no fasteners?

[pred02]

[Reviving his thread after almost one year being dormant]

The scuppers [on the 2006 210 VENTURA boat that is the topic of this thread] were replaced in 2025. For our mechanic the replacement of the scuppers was not a difficult job.